Sound amplifier and speaker compatibility with other electronic components (Motor and LED's)

Thread Starter

Jacob1994

Joined May 11, 2021
152

Thread Starter

Jacob1994

Joined May 11, 2021
152
Mechanical polishing, with an abrasive, will fix it.
Thanks Yaakov,

Is there any cheap readily available brand I can get? Would using a metal scrub help? I tried to remove the top layer off to expose the copper underneath but this doesn't seem to have had any effect :/
 

BobTPH

Joined Jun 5, 2013
11,666
Sandpaper would work.

Here is what anti-vibration motor mounts look like:

Anti-vibration motor mounts

Do you see why I said you can't easily isolate it in the tight box you have created? In these, the height is roughly similar to the diameter. That way there is a lot of rubber to compress and expand instead of passing the vibration on.

Bob
 

Thread Starter

Jacob1994

Joined May 11, 2021
152
Sandpaper would work.

Here is what anti-vibration motor mounts look like:

Anti-vibration motor mounts

Do you see why I said you can't easily isolate it in the tight box you have created? In these, the height is roughly similar to the diameter. That way there is a lot of rubber to compress and expand instead of passing the vibration on.

Bob
Thanks Bob, I’ll try get some Sandpaper too.

Ah yes I see that, I’ll try use a less noisy motor like this next time.
 

Thread Starter

Jacob1994

Joined May 11, 2021
152
Ok, I’m now confused with the problem and frustrated. I removed the copper rings from the housing to prepare for giving them a proper clean. But now when I’m trying to test the single LED and the LED strip with the 2 wires that used to go to the copper rings, I’m still getting nothing.
There was a consistent current going to the LED’s right before I tried to clean the copper rings. Now after I’ve cleaned the rings I’m not even getting a current through the 2 wires that connected to the rings, these wires were never exposed to the solution used on the rings. I’m really wishing I didn’t try and clean the copper in the first place now
 

Thread Starter

Jacob1994

Joined May 11, 2021
152
Hey guys, I have got a current working again in the rings, I went through each part of the circuit with a multimeter and it seemed to be an issue with the solder that connected to the rings.

since I’ve added the soundproofing to the motor this has improved the noise level drastically, but the adjustment has made the motors rotating shaft go slightly outside the dead centre resulting in my LED’s only being on for half of the time. I’ve ordered some slightly bigger carbon brushes and sandpaper, I’m hoping if I’m able to sand down the carbon brushes to fit more tightly inside the housing than this may help keep a current going to the LED’s
 

Thread Starter

Jacob1994

Joined May 11, 2021
152

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Thread Starter

Jacob1994

Joined May 11, 2021
152
They should be fine as long as they are in a proper carriage, and they don't have to travel too far to remain in contact.
Ok that’s good good to know, the brushes I’ve been using at the moment are these, which have a wire connecting the carbon brush to the top of the contact. Will the fact that the new brushes I ordered not having a wire reduce their affective ness?
 

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ElectricSpidey

Joined Dec 2, 2017
3,362
Depends...not having the shunt shouldn't matter when the load is not that great, and the springs have a good hold on the brushes.

The important thing is maintaining contact with the ring, the brush should move easily up and down with little side to side play.

And keeping most of the brush in the barrel is important as well.
 

djsfantasi

Joined Apr 11, 2010
9,237
Depends...not having the shunt shouldn't matter when the load is not that great, and the springs have a good hold on the brushes.

The important thing is maintaining contact with the ring, the brush should move easily up and down with little side to side play.

And keeping most of the brush in the barrel is important as well.
How are the brushes mounted!
 

Thread Starter

Jacob1994

Joined May 11, 2021
152
Depends...not having the shunt shouldn't matter when the load is not that great, and the springs have a good hold on the brushes.

The important thing is maintaining contact with the ring, the brush should move easily up and down with little side to side play.

And keeping most of the brush in the barrel is important as well.
Right ok, there’s very small clearance between the opening where the carbon brush sticks out of and the copper rings. I’ll depending on the length of the spring when pressure is applied is really going to determine how much of the carbon brush I can keep in the barrel. im Just hoping the springs themselves are small enough to fit inside of the barrel
 

Thread Starter

Jacob1994

Joined May 11, 2021
152
How are the brushes mounted!
This is how they’re mounted at the moment. I’m probably going to remove the spring from the old carbon brushes and keep the copper cover screwed on, then connect the new carbon brush’ spring to the underside of the copper
 

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Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
10,355
Ok guys, I gave her the gift at long last and she really loved it, can’t thank you enough for all of your help on this project!
I attached a link to some media of the final product, if I start a similar project I’ll certainly have some good starting experience!
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dehbcf8kfiih53u/AADZzQxJzPZsVOJs0_UbTtwMa?dl=0
Looks good. It strikes me you might want to make feet for it from that neoprene to isolate it from the table and reduce noise even further.
 
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