I hate to mention it again but the protection circuit schemes they have are complex and may often work as a complicated feedback network to another board which then quickly signals the power supply to shut off. Ever since they first came out Sony TVs have been some of the hardest ever made to work on. I haven't been in the service industry for decades but I wouldn't doubt that the variations in having complex designs hasn't changed that much.

It's obviously heat related so the freeze spray idea is a good one but about 90% of the intermittents I ever found on them were due to solder joints that appeared perfectly fine but weren't. Outstanding TVs for ages then they got cheap on the amount of cathode material in their Trinitron guns and the CRTs just didn't last anywhere near what they used to. I've still got a few around, couple of the original 5" B&W sets from the 60s, a 17" upright model from the 70s, a 13" and a couple of 36" from the the early 2000 era.

Had to retire a 24" and a 27" not long ago due to the CRT starting to crap out which will also cause them not to come on for quite a while until the circuitry senses a proper condition. Finally went with a regular LCD 40" Sony downstairs and an LED backlit Sharp 32" 1080p for my bedroom. When it comes to LED or even regular backlit TVs Sharp has always had the edge, now they've got one that uses 4 colors for the screen adding Yellow to the normal RGB.

 

Is is a Sony Wega series...
From the looks of it, u seem to have a stand by PSU issue..it's no biggie, if you know how to measure DC voltages.

I can guide if you a comfortable with Mains voltage related circuits. This could be dangerous if you do not follow my guidelines. A few sparks and you will be missing an eyebrow or something.

Are you ready to tackle it ?

 

Is is a Sony Wega series...
From the looks of it, u seem to have a stand by PSU issue..it's no biggie, if you know how to measure DC voltages.

I can guide if you a comfortable with Mains voltage related circuits. This could be dangerous if you do not follow my guidelines. A few sparks and you will be missing an eyebrow or something.

Are you ready to tackle it ?

Yes please. I have all the tools I have multimeter, soldering tools, capacitor tester.

 

Get me a better picture of that relay area closeup from both sides. Around 1/4th of the board closeup of tht area. No glare and better lighting

 

Pics removed, too huge.

 

We haven't heard back from him, so for all we know, he has it repaired, or has gotten new one.

This happens too often, where people ask a question, get a lot of feedback, presumably something said fixed the problem, but we never know which item it was. Building up a database of knowledge on the forum would be great, if we knew what worked in the past.

Projects, repairs, etc, I just don't want to dive into headfirst since the people vanish more often than not.

--ETA: Saw he posted before I posted the above (left tab open too long), so I take a bit of it back.

Did you get some Freez-It?

 

OP Remove the photo's. They are too big for the forum.

The Pictures are too close. I need u to divide the board into 4 parts. take picture of the part containing the relay only from both sides.
Get the board some sunlight, it is too dark, and with glare it's not easy to show you things.

After that re size the photo's to 800 by 600 pixels. This can be pasted on your post
Next attach the high resolution. Attaching them saves me time and space and bandwidth on limited members like me. I try to help but with huge pictures, it takes lot of time to show up and wastes my download limits.

So I advice u to up them to the forum, here you can store the high res in ur account.
Take time to do this. This will make easier for me, I do not have time on hand but I do best I can, so doing the best from ur side will help you faster.

Do this and post back

 

Ok sorry for the delay. I will upload in few minutes time. Let me get the shot now. BRB

 

This pictures are resized to 800 x 800. Hope this is fine Taken without reflection

 

 

See the Picture. I want close up of the area in the triangle. both sides

Get High Resolution. I need to look close, when I zoom in ur current pics pixelates, I can't point out the pads I want you to check .

Do not attach the pics here.

Open an account here and upload them.
Post the links in ur post. Don't take too much photo's, take them and see for ur self first.
I only need two pictures right now

 

Thank you

 

check post #31

 

RIFAA TO THE RESCUE!



I cant sleep.

 

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j402/DjKrish/28122010350.jpg
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j402/DjKrish/28122010351.jpg
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j402/DjKrish/28122010352.jpg
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j402/DjKrish/28122010353.jpg

Done

 

RIFAA TO THE RESCUE!



I cant sleep.

I can keep u up forever....
by the way ..are u on?

 

Just a quick visual inspection shows some heat related discoloration on the PCB, and some "suspect" solder joints.

I annotated them in the image below. The yellow areas aren't exactly "Bad", just signs that they were quite warm at some point, so you will want to check components and solder joints very well.

In the teal area, you may want to re-solder the joints, as they are brown, and one pin doesn't actually look completely connected (cold solder joint).

Can you post links to your original HUGE images? Not inline with the post, just links as you've done above. Then I can look at it seamlessly and match top to bottom much easier. That would give me the resolution needed to get better info on other areas.

 

I have resoldered all the placed u have highlighted. Still same issue. The relay keeps ticking.

 

See the PICs.
The First measurements is the stby Voltage.

For this u need to connect the board to CRT.

Connect all and every wire properly & DO NOT FORGET ANY CRT GROUND CONNECTIONS.

Any Mishap here and you will kill the Signal or the μC due to sparking.

You have to have easy excess to the solder side of the PCB. I believe you have the manual. Check it, it might have the service position info's.

If you are not sure what to do post back and wait for my reply.

Have a buddy with you to help. Cause you need to power on the TV after connecting the DMM.

Remember after powering down the TV, do not disconnect any tube connections, as the CRT and caps might still be charged. To make sure the caps are charged measure the voltage at the smoothing caps. Make sure they are discharged below 30V before handling. These will be all the huge caps.

The Picture shows the standby PSU Tx.
This section provides the power needed by the μC. Helps in keeping the set in standby while the main supply is shut down and the main PSU is shut off via a relay.
As what you here is the relay chatting, we need to check this part first.

Connect the board.
Connect the Voltage Meter across the points shown and switch on the set.
Keep an eye on the meter, when the relay chatters, make sure the voltage present here is pulsing or not. An anolog meter will be best for this.

I need to know the minimum and maximum voltage fluctuation.

If does not fluctuates, then make sure the voltage is stable at 7V approx.

{ed}
By the way you need to clean the static build up. See the primary area of the stby tx.

 

When my Sony 32" TV was only 8 years old it stopped. Inside, two of its stuck-on-the-CRT purity magnets fell off. A fuseable resistor in the power supply was blown and the horizontal output transistor was shorted and its heatsink showed overheating.

The soldering looked great so I ordered replacement parts (plus some high voltage capacitors that were recommended on another forum) from Sony.
Of course they sent the wrong parts so I ordered again and returned the wrong ones.

The heatsinks were steel instead of aluminum and the thermal paste was as hard as concrete. I used good thermal paste and the TV worked perfectly (but failed again the same as before in one week).

A local TV repairman did not want the TV for free so I sold it to another guy.
My kids replaced it with a newer Sony 32" TV that was sold for only $60.00. It works perfectly.

Every week I see 32" SONY CRT TVs on the curb for garbage day but now garbage trucks don't pickup electronics anymore. People must take electronic garbage to a recycling depot where they are thrown into a "special" hole in the ground.