I have a new solenoid rated 110vac that gets too hot.

How hot is too hot? Hot as in you can't touch the coil or hot as in it is about to smoke?

Like MisterBill2 I don't see a name brand? Now if you feel that the coil is in fact getting too hot think about what you are controlling. Natural gas or any explosive gas I would want reliability from any gas valve. Don't skimp or cheap out. You are creating what is commonly called a "permissive loop" where certain conditions need to be met for something to happen. Look to brand names like Asco, or similar reputable names. Personally, and just my thinking but I would not be screwing around trying to find a fix when no fix should be needed. I have seen the damage a single cubic foot of natural gas can do when it explodes. One more time I would get a solenoid from a reputable brand name designed for your application. I would not even consider any shortcut to make what I had work. Your call on this.

Ron

 

Hi everyone,
here is the solenoid,I chose this one because it said continuous duty. The use of it is to hold open lp gas and stop it if fan loses power. I could use a 12v dc since my system uses dc also.

You are much better off to go with DC IMO.
In all the years I have serviced Industrial equipment, I do not recall ever having to replace DC coils because of burn out coil.
This cannot be said, by any means, for the AC variety!

 

So the 2V025-8 appears to be a common solenoid valve design and yours has been paired with a 110VAC coil.
AirTac makes this style valve and their datasheet is here:
https://sa-es.airtac.com/upload/044-2V-202107270231564166.PDF

Notice that for the 110VAC coil there is an expected temp rise of 35C (95F).
Now if your unit is outside and its a normal 75 deg F day, your valve would be at 170 deg F in open air.
(from www) "The industry standard is 60 °C or 140 °F, which will not generally cause damage if held in contact for 5 seconds."
The datasheet does not require any additional cooling requirements (air/heatsink/etc)
Seems like 170 F is allowed, but you might consider screening to avoid accidental contact.

THAT ALL SAID, scanning the various datasheets for this valve call out use with liquid/INERT gas. I am fairly certain INERT means
non-explosive and you are using with LG gas. I strongly suggest, for your safety, you look for the correct part. Consider gas stove
parts that might be available and pay attention to coil voltages that they use and coil design as there are designs that are explosion
proof.

 

OK, and the power consumption is claimed to be "5.5 VA" which tells me that after the valve opens all of that is producing heat, about 5.5 watts worth. Certainly that will lead to a temperature rise. Certainly a valid safety concern. If a 220 volt AC valve would open reliably with 120 volts, that would be a really simple alternative.
Is that the actual valve that overheats?? I do not see any brand name, and that is a cause for concern that the producers choose to be unknown. It might be that there is simply not enough copper in the solenoid coil. And possibly not enough iron in the magnetic path.
The very simple scheme to reduce the holding power use would be to put a 120 volt incandescent light bulb i series with the coil, which will drop the current after the initial turn-on surge, and serve as an indicator that the gas is "ON".

 

The overheating starts at the metal bolt holding on the coil ,then the coil and after 5 mins the whole thing is hot. I tried incandescent bulbs and the valve opens bulb don't glow in series. I order a 12vdc and will give that a try.
Thanks for everyone's replies,I will post how the new on works when it gets here in a few days.

 

If the valve opens but the bulb does not glow, try a lower wattage bulb. And see if the valve gets as hot.

 

Would a rectifier diode work?

 

My experience has been that a single series diode will make a slightly noisy relay a bit noisier. BUT putting two diodes in series, back to back, with one of the diodes in parallel with the relay coil, will quiet the buzz. That is because between the two diodes the coil current never drops to zero. But it might be increasing the coil current and heating. I have not investigated that part of what it does. I only used it as a buzz reduction scheme.

 

Why not use a valve made for gas lol the valve posted is great for closing or opening stuff for short time they get very hot if you leave them on.
I use 100 of these mostly 24 volt AC but never left on for more then a few minutes. In 4 years out of 2400 of these i only replaced one

A gas valve is what you need white rodgers is good brand

 

One of these would be way better pick

Or a REDHAT brand valve

 

The picture in post#30 looks a lot like a motorized gate valve. Seldom suitable for shutoff. A motorized ball valve could do an adequate shutoff, but it is much less linear.

 

We use them for stuff that is on a lot water fill tank maybe on for hour or two used the REDHAT before they lasted a good time before they started leaking.

But to cut off Gas I would use a GAS valve like white rogers There meant to shut off gas plus they don't get hot

 

If the valve opens but the bulb does not glow, try a lower wattage bulb. And see if the valve gets as hot.

I traded it for a 12v ,it gets a little warm,I would like to add a resistor to cool it some,how would I figure a value to start testing at? I also had a question if I should add flywheel diodes to the coil and motor like I saw in some online circuits? I also wanted to ask should I add a ground or is the negative in my dc side ok to end at motor? I added a diagram. It is 120 vac to triac dimmer to a transformer that measures between 6-12 vdc and it engages solenoid at the lowest voltage.coil is 20 ohms

 

We use them for stuff that is on a lot water fill tank maybe on for hour or two used the REDHAT before they lasted a good time before they started leaking.

But to cut off Gas I would use a GAS valve like white rogers There meant to shut off gas plus they don't get hot

Yep, I saw the damage when a boiler blew up. When it comes to things like natural gas I don't screw around, get what is designed for the application.

Ron

 

In an industrial application we were using 12V solenoids on a design all rated properly, but we just didn't like the amount of heat that the 12V solenoids were giving off. After several attempts of series resistors, even two solenoids in series not performing the way we wanted, in the end is was just much simpler to order 15V solenoids instead. That 3V can make a huge difference.

 

but we just didn't like the amount of heat that the 12V solenoids were giving off.

They were AC versions, were they??

 

I traded it for a 12v ,it gets a little warm,I would like to add a resistor to cool it some,how would I figure a value to start testing at? I also had a question if I should add flywheel diodes to the coil and motor like I saw in some online circuits? I also wanted to ask should I add a ground or is the negative in my dc side ok to end at motor? I added a diagram. It is 120 vac to triac dimmer to a transformer that measures between 6-12 vdc and it engages solenoid at the lowest voltage.coil is 20 ohms

Evidently a lot of folks are terribly concerned about safety.
As for grounding the DC circuit, no reason for that. As for the diode, consider that the DC line is not switched at all, so there is no reason to prevent the switch transient that is not generated

 

They were AC versions, were they??

I remember now, it's been a few years, yes they were AC versions.
In the machine the power supply was 15VAC and we were using 12VAC solenoids which were getting much hotter than we were comfortable with. So after some empirical testing confirming that the 24VAC versions worked much cooler, we switched to 24VAC solenoids

 

24VAC versions worked much cooler, we switched to 24VAC solenoids

Switch to DC and no need to worry!

 

The valves we use are 2.4 watts for the AC ones at 24 volts and a DC one at 24 volts same rating is 2.4 watts.
Looks like both just as hot