I think I found the tip cleaning stuff you're talking about. Today somebody came in to do some soldering and he had a tin of this stuff sitting beside him:

Is that the stuff? And I need a leaded (non lead-free) version, right?

That is the tip cleaner/tinner that I was referring to. If you are using tin/lead solder, you need the tin/lead version of it. If you are using lead free solder (not suggested to people new at soldering due to higher temp needed) you need the lead free type.

 

That is the tip cleaner/tinner that I was referring to. If you are using tin/lead solder, you need the tin/lead version of it. If you are using lead free solder (not suggested to people new at soldering due to higher temp needed) you need the lead free type.

What's the matter with that? I mix pure tin solder and lead solder all the time. The lead solder I use currently has a bad flux, so if I have trouble with a joint, I mix in some tin solder (which has better flux).

Most of the time I run the soldering iron at 300C. If I use lower temp., the lead solder I use is very bad. At 300C, it is useable somehow.

If you use high quality western made solder wire, at 300C it makes no difference if it is tin or 60/40 lead/tin.

For these small cheap irons with 25W, tin solder is more difficult, yes, the tip heats up a lot when not used, but then cools down quickly, and 25W can not give much heat. These irons are only good for fine tracks PCBs + thin leads components.

 

The difference is lead free solder vs. leaded solder. Not ratio of tin/lead.

Though at 300ºC, either would melt together, that is a bit on the hot side.

 

I can't get rid off the idea what I have here is a knock-off brand, with more than 40% lead. It has a horrible viscosity. If I move the joint only a bit, it will shear off very easily. It will also not melt properly (unless I use high temperature).

 

How long did you have your LEDs at that temp when connecting them? Just a thought.

I'd suggest getting Chip-Quik or Kester brands Solder, 0.015-0.020 diameter, it helps you not put too much solder on joints, and melts quicker. Larger diameter solder is fine if you never work with SMD.

If you are very fast with the iron, the temp is usable, but a bit on the high side for 5 second contact, most datasheet test ratings are for 260ºC.

 

Normally I produce a solder joint in less than a second. I use 1.2mm or 1mm solder for SMD. I can also produce very fine joints by using the rectangular tip at 45 degree angle.

Yes 3mm or 5mm LEDs are heat sensitive. While SMD LEDs aren't. Each time when soldering a large matrix, a few LEDs won't work. I guess from heat stress. I figured out if I use 300C, solder joints can be formed much faster.

A rule of thumb I apply is if the component becomes too hot to touch, I let it cool down a little.

When I solder fine tracks PCBs, I turn down the temperature, because the amount of solder will be very small.

 

The difference is lead free solder vs. leaded solder. Not ratio of tin/lead.

Though at 300ºC, either would melt together, that is a bit on the hot side.

Here is a dumb question. How do you know if solder is lead free? Would it say so?

I have a whole spool of Radio Shack .032mm. Are you saying that will be too thick for SMD?

 

Here is a dumb question. How do you know if solder is lead free? Would it say so?

I have a whole spool of Radio Shack .032mm. Are you saying that will be too thick for SMD?

60/40 or 63/37 is leaded solder, Lead free solder is usually in bold print on the label, or "ROHS Compliant", and may have silver or other alloys.

Thicker diameter solder can work for SMD, with practice. The issue is that thicker solder takes a fraction of a second longer to melt, but more importantly, it takes more dexterity/practice to apply only the tiny amount of solder needed when compared to smaller diameter solder with the same melting point.

 

Yeah I have 60/40 and it looks like I bought the wrong tip cleaner / tinner. It says "lead free" . I wish this thread was started before I bought it. I have never used it before so figured I would try it. Man that stuff is expensive! A shame it is going to waste now.

This has been a really good thread. Covers the basics.

 

Yeah I have 60/40 and it looks like I bought the wrong tip cleaner / tinner. It says "lead free" . I wish this thread was started before I bought it. I have never used it before so figured I would try it. Man that stuff is expensive! A shame it is going to waste now.

This has been a really good thread. Covers the basics.

That will work in a pinch for getting the iron clean and tinned. Just be sure to add a decent amount of leaded solder tinning on the tip to ensure it "clings" well. Enough lead solder will dilute the lead free coating back to being useful.

It's better than using sandpaper on the tip, I've used the lead free tip cleaner before, just clean the tip on the cleaning coil and apply 60/40 solder to it so every area that was tinned with lead free cleaner is covered with 60/40.

The issue is with the higher melting point of lead free solder, not any chemical reaction or incompatible alloys. Needing the tip cleaner tin isn't a frequent need, only for when the iron sits on too long without tinning, or other common tip mishaps.

 

Well that is the problem, I don't have leaded solder.

 

Well that is the problem, I don't have leaded solder.

Then you don't have a problem. Just use the lead free tinner with lead free solder and go on as usual.

The only issue is the higher melting point of lead free, but if you are fast, there shouldn't be a difference.

For me, it takes a while to get used to lead free after I've been using leaded, eye calibration is how I usually judge, and if your iron isn't hot enough, you tend to cook the component before you get solder melted entirely.

For hobby uses, I'm sticking with tin/lead solder as long as possible. It's far more "user friendly" to me, but that just may due to it being what I learned/used for many years.

 

Sorry I am going senile. I meant to say I do not have lead free solder. All I have is leaded. It is the cleaner that is lead free.

So I guess I am still OK?


What is the procedure for using this stuff?

 

Sorry I am going senile. I meant to say I do not have lead free solder. All I have is leaded. It is the cleaner that is lead free.

So I guess I am still OK?


What is the procedure for using this stuff?

Same, just make sure you put enough lead solder on after tinning to dilute the lead-free mixture on the tip. Then it is both clean and lead friendly.

 

Do you heat the tip before applying the cleaner? Is it wiped off before tinning?

 

Do you heat the tip before applying the cleaner? Is it wiped off before tinning?

The tip melts into the tip cleaner, so it needs to be at operating temperature. It is a mix of a strong flux and metal particles.

Cleaning what you can off the tip with your normal cleaning pad is suggested so gunk doesn't get mixed in with the tip cleaner/tinning mix.

 

No I mean after the tip cleaner is applied. Is it wiped off then the tip tinned?

 

No I mean after the tip cleaner is applied. Is it wiped off then the tip tinned?

Yes, the tip cleaner doesn't leave much of a coating, so if it's just shiny. Apply leaded solder to get a blob on it, then roll it around the tinned area to ensure an even coating. If the tip cleaner does leave a blob on the tip, then shake/wipe it off before applying the leaded solder.

 

Sorry for hijacking this thread BTW but others have done pretty much the same. Seems it is in the public domain now.


Need to try again but it did leave a blob the first time I tried it but I know it was black (the cleaner is gray) . Should it turn balck? or maybe I just needed to wipe?

 

The tip, or last 1/2" of the tip anyway, should be all silver and shiny. Rotate through 180 degrees and a bit of a slide for chisel tip while in the tip cleaner.

Then it's just easier to always run it across your cleaning coil, then add lead solder to "drown out" the lead free mix on the tip so the temperature can be lower.