I've been trying to do this all day and at this point I would say it's not possible.

Even the finest piece of lint will obstruct movement of the 6mm section of 30 gauge wire Im trying to solder to the USB port prong and a .8mm section of PC board where I managed to remove enough of the coating to get to bare copper. Still working with something that small is not working.
The solder refuses to flow or the wire moves.

Is there some magic trick to this or are people just poking fun when they say stuff like "oh that doesn't look so bad".or "just solder a jumper wire".

I'm using a 20 x jewelers loop to see what I'm doing and I can see, but working on something this tiny seem impossible.

Seems something like 40 gauge might work better. 30Ga seems like a stiff log on the small scale Im working. Like this.......?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-AWG-Gaug...509251?hash=item4b067ea103:g:iZYAAOSwgQ9Vw7C2

 

I can.

 

I can.

I probably could too...in "some" situations...but I have a hard time believing anyone could do what I'm trying to do right now.

 

I did solder the new USB port back on....and 3 pads are still not connected.

BUT.....I connected a USB cable and to my utter amazement....it's charging.

I don't really care about data transfer. All I really wanted was to be able to plug the phone in so it could charge via USB.

So...I guess in the infamous words of GW Bush,....MISSION ACCOMPLISHED

I can always open it back up and try again later with the 3 pads still not connected but I don't see how this could be done with 30 gauge wire. I need to also do some more video watching.

Hey R!f@@,
Got any youtube videos of YOU doing any soldering like that? lol.

 

I've been trying to do this all day and at this point I would say it's not possible.

Even the finest piece of lint will obstruct movement of the 6mm section of 30 gauge wire Im trying to solder to the USB port prong and a .8mm section of PC board where I managed to remove enough of the coating to get to bare copper. Still working with something that small is not working.
The solder refuses to flow or the wire moves.

Is there some magic trick to this or are people just poking fun when they say stuff like "oh that doesn't look so bad".or "just solder a jumper wire".

I'm using a 20 x jewelers loop to see what I'm doing and I can see, but working on something this tiny seem impossible.

Seems something like 40 gauge might work better. 30Ga seems like a stiff log on the small scale Im working. Like this.......?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-AWG-Gaug...509251?hash=item4b067ea103:g:iZYAAOSwgQ9Vw7C2

Sounds like that "kludge wire" that's often found on first version PCBs where the designer overlooked a few tracks. Also wire wrap assembly.

The covering is pretty heat resistant, but if there's just enough conductor peeking out the end to hang a blob of solder on; continuous heat from the iron will shrivel the covering and make it creep back and you can make a decent joint.

Another trick that occasionally works, strip the total removal from one end and slide the covering along so there's equal exposed conductor at each end.

 

The solder refuses to flow or the wire moves.

Poor soldering technique. Wire needs to be properly prepared and clean. Strip and tin the wire, then solder to a properly prepared site. If you don't have enough hands to hold the solder, iron, and wire; use solder reflow.

 

Poor soldering technique. Wire needs to be properly prepared and clean. Strip and tin the wire, then solder to a properly prepared site. If you don't have enough hands to hold the solder, iron, and wire; use solder reflow.

I like Ian's answer MUCH better.
How can you be sure it was bad technique? (I mean, it "probably" was, but how can be sure?)
I got the USB port back on and it was A GRAND MESS...and all but the bad 3 pads seem to be working and it's charging again (woo hoo!)...so I'm not the "worlds worst" solderer.

No, really....Dennis, I cleaned and tinned the wire first. It's really hard to solder a 4mm piece of 30AWG wire to a 0.8mm spot on a PCboard.
Even under magnification, the flux tends to obscure the view. And that wire is SO TINY a heavy breath can blow it away. But I guess a pro makes everything look easy.

When I try it again I'll try again to make doubly sure it's clean and tinned. I'm flustrated...but I DO appreciate all the advice.
If you guys can really do that (with no effort), you are the soldering Bombs

 

I cleaned and tinned the wire first. It's really hard to solder a 4mm piece of 30AWG wire to a 0.8mm spot on a PCboard.

There's nothing very difficult about soldering #30 wire. When I do point-to-point wiring, I usually use #30. The fact that you said the solder wouldn't flow is indicative of poor technique. Tack one end, then the other; reflow solder if joints aren't good.

You could also use a longer piece so you have something to hold on to with tweezers to get one end attached. Then cut the wire to length, position, and attach the other end.

I have repaired broken pins on DIP ICs by soldering on bits of lead frames with little difficulty.

Even under magnification, the flux tends to obscure the view. And that wire is SO TINY a heavy breath can blow it away. But I guess a pro makes everything look easy.

I have bad eye sight and I can see well enough to solder #30 without magnification. If you've tinned the wire and the place the wire is being soldered to, no additional flux is required. Flux is used to clean oxidation. If you tinned things shortly before, within tens of minutes, there would be no appreciable oxidation.

 

I agree. I can solder #30 wire all day long and twice on Sunday...depending on the end points. but this is a really tight and awkward spot. The wire can't be more than 4mm long. I'll post a photo.

Any of you guys have videos of you doing this so I can see your technique?

I know there are youtube videos, but seing one of you in action would be great.

 

Proper preparation.
Flux and tinning the wires will help.
And some times liquid solder helps.

And years of experience makes it easy

 

Sometimes its the tool that you use which makes all of the difference, as well. Patience is key.

The data lines of usb can be difficult. If you're soldering hookup wire directly to the pins I'd suggest using the smallest tip you have access to until you're comfortable with the pitch.

The other day my software guy asked me to solder a 30awg wire directly to the pad of a pcb mounted uqfn (6 mil pitch if i remember correctly) that i hadn't wired on the pcb. I told him I'd try but wouldn't promise anything. Got it on the first try!

One thing I've found helpful when soldering like that is forming the wire as closely as possible to the final configuration so that it naurally wants to be in that location.

High quality tweezers are a must also.

 

Sometimes its the tool that you use which makes all of the difference, as well. Patience is key.

The data lines of usb can be difficult. If you're soldering hookup wire directly to the pins I'd suggest using the smallest tip you have access to until you're comfortable with the pitch.

The other day my software guy asked me to solder a 30awg wire directly to the pad of a pcb mounted uqfn (6 mil pitch if i remember correctly) that i hadn't wired on the pcb. I told him I'd try but wouldn't promise anything. Got it on the first try!

One thing I've found helpful when soldering like that is forming the wire as closely as possible to the final configuration so that it naurally wants to be in that location.

High quality tweezers are a must also.

Thanks Tindel.
What I experienced in real life parallels what you said to a T. (except getting it on the first try
The other thing that makes this particular repair so difficult (which I failed to mention) is that I'm trying to do two of these micro wires next to each other. They are only about 1/2 a millimeter apart (maybe less)!
Whenever I get one and then try to get the other, the other one moves or de-solders again due to the heat so close.
I would gladly pay to see someone do it who says this is easy ....just for the education.

In this case, I've decided that it's not doable and will buy a replacement board.

Regards

 

Sorry...I just don't have time to do a video.
I am on a deadline

 

I agree. I can solder #30 wire all day long and twice on Sunday...depending on the end points. but this is a really tight and awkward spot. The wire can't be more than 4mm long. I'll post a photo.

Any of you guys have videos of you doing this so I can see your technique?

I know there are youtube videos, but seing one of you in action would be great.

For such a short length - do you really need to retain the insulation? Just place the link and trim any surplus.

Sometimes for (not as) short links; I use a loop of wire and tack it down with a couple of spots of hot melt glue.

 

Thanks Tindel.
What I experienced in real life parallels what you said to a T. (except getting it on the first try
The other thing that makes this particular repair so difficult (which I failed to mention) is that I'm trying to do two of these micro wires next to each other. They are only about 1/2 a millimeter apart (maybe less)!
Whenever I get one and then try to get the other, the other one moves or de-solders again due to the heat so close.
I would gladly pay to see someone do it who says this is easy ....just for the education.

In this case, I've decided that it's not doable and will buy a replacement board.

Regards

Be sure to let the first joint cool completely before attempting the second joint. Keep the iron on the second joint as short as possible while still flowing the joint. Use the smallest tip you have.

Having the tools to film something like this is another problem in itself.