It isn't too easy to open the customary black-blob chip in these garden lights to see how its done - but I have my own theory.Maybe the Panels used on the little yard lights dont have the internal diode D1 and it is the reverse leakage of the Panel itself that supplies base current to Q1. The larger panels (especially the ones sold for automotive trickle charging) do have D1. D3 is there just to reverse bias the Vbe junction of Q1, and could be a Schottky to minimize loss when the sun is shining...
The last batch in my back yard (circa 2012) use a QX5252 as the charge/LED controller. No black blob but a discrete 4 leaded device. The data sheet indicated that diode is internal to the device. It needs to be there to keep the panel from discharging the battery at night.Every little light I've seen has a blocking diode. I've been expecting them to build it into the little controller chip but so far they all still have a separate diode.
But I need to look again at one without the Cds cell. I think I've seen some but can't recall how they shut themselves off.
The last one I took apart - the red leads from both battery & cell were soldered to the same pad, the black leads each had their own track that disappeared under the black blob. But I have also seen the black leads common once or twice.The last batch in my back yard (circa 2012) use a QX5252 as the charge/LED controller. No black blob but a discrete 4 leaded device. The data sheet indicated that diode is internal to the device. It needs to be there to keep the panel from discharging the battery at night.
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Here is the schematic. It was designed a built about three years ago. I'm figuring out all the technical specifications. When I get them figured out for surek7elp60
YourPost sound interesting can you post schematic-diagram.

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