Recyclers have a price per pound schedule that includes a price for motors that's significantly higher than for scrap steel but less than for copper.

 

Same symptom a while ago on my side.
Removed the motor, opened, lubricated bushings, placed back and same story next day.
Removed again, gave sandpaper to the shaft by the bushings, lubricated again, and against expert opinions, has been smoothly running one year every day and night, for heating and cooling. The new replacement 'universal' motor I ordered is still in its box, waiting for the next failure.

Go for it; tackle the problem. It will take 30 minutes. Just make sure it is not the capacitor, by turning the blades by hand with minimal effort, use a stick trough the top mesh before disassembling

 

The new replacement 'universal' motor I ordered is still in its box, waiting for the next failure.

That's an "insurance premium".

Sometimes getting it up and running quickly is the priority. At work, we had the same model vacuum gage for many of our systems. One was always ready to swap into service. The problems were nearly the same.

1. The negative supply caps die. Excess ripple. Causes relay to chatter.
have to re-cap and may have to replace relay. About every 5 years.

2. Re-placement lamps - as needed

3. Someone spills Acetone on the plastic meter movement. replace.

It's OK when the manufacturer still supports the instrument.

A set of Sorenson power supplies, the DCR series. 10-15 years out, capacitors contribute to high ripple.
So, basically the same problem for about 10 of them. One had another issue as well.

 

@ wayneh or anyone else for that matter. If you should decide to "upgrade" your HVAC, these guys are about the best price out there. Replaced my furnace and put air in, by myself, last fall. Did a complete upgrade on the duct work, since the house was still using the original coal furnace duct work. A lot of areas they even know of people that will do the installation cheap too. https://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewc...MIwI3C4fLf2wIV1LbACh3L6QByEAAYASAAEgIuQ_D_BwE

All in all I did the new furnace air and ducts for less than local guys wanted for just a furnace with no installation.

 

@#12 or anyone, what I am I looking at?

Poke the fan blade with a stick. That will tell you about the bearings. If it spins free, check for 230 VAC. If yes, capacitor.
And Externet already said that.
Of course all air conditioning companies want to sell you a whole new system. That's where the big bucks are.
Do the math on efficiency vs electric bill. If you can't calculate a pay-off period where the machine will pay for itself in less than 10 years, don't do it.

 

Poke the fan blade with a stick. That will tell you about the bearings. If it spins free, check for 230 VAC. If yes, capacitor.
And Externet already said that.
.

....and three or four before him!
Max.

 

Poke the fan blade with a stick. That will tell you about the bearings. If it spins free, check for 230 VAC. If yes, capacitor.
And Externet already said that.
Of course all air conditioning companies want to sell you a whole new system. That's where the big bucks are.
Do the math on efficiency vs electric bill. If you can't calculate a pay-off period where the machine will pay for itself in less than 10 years, don't do it.

Yeah, I had already looked at possibly upgrading for higher efficiency back in 2011 or so. I discovered that my annual A/C costs are under $300 despite keeping a drier and cooler house than most. I could take that to zero and not be able to justify replacing the working unit.

I got out of this current jam for $250 in less than 24 hours, at 95°F and humid outside conditions. I can't complain.

 

Don't worry about the fact that it's old. The first A/C on my house was 30 years old before I could calculate a pay-back period of less than 10 years.