That's great, good job. Funny that we're both looking to basically do the same thing. Glad I found this thread.
It's a pain that HomeGear doesn't accept IR natively.

Super pain for sure... just building the mk161 was annoying to me. Haha. Hope all goes well for you on this project!

 

The switches are actually easier than you think. The switches consist of two pairs of pins. Note the little hairline bridge so that they are easy to machine solder. Less thermal mass. So, you have a HUGE ground area to choose from by scratching off the green.

The other side f the switch is easy to get to on the switch side. Connect directly to the switch.

 

This is great I will be trying this! I will be doing the remote version as well, as I do not want to destroy the projector if I accidentally short something. Out of curiosity which points close the up and down (there is four points per button) on the below picture? @BiranMac21

 

Any two horizontal pins button pins.

If you look closely, the right pins are isolated from the bottom layer. Thus if you place an ohmmeter across them, they should always be shorted.

The left row has 4 tiny thermal reliefs that make the switch easier to solder. Thay are actually connected to the copper, but on first glance they don't appear to be.

So, each left pair and right pair are connected together respectively. Shorting any row should activate that switch.

 

Success! Once I removed the sticker on the remote's board it was clear which points I needed to solder to. Tips for others:

1. Make sure power supply has enough power needs at least 12V 0.75A
2. Set MK161 to pulse mode - Harmony will recognize and communicate via Valleman K8049 (Power Toggle and Light2)
3. You will need to update K8049's "Power Settings" via Harmony to trigger appropriately, Power Toggle or Light2, I pulse for 2 seconds to Turn on - Screen down or Turn off-Screen up.

Thanks again!

 

This is great I will be trying this! I will be doing the remote version as well, as I do not want to destroy the projector if I accidentally short something. Out of curiosity which points close the up and down (there is four points per button) on the below picture? @BiranMac21

Would be cool to see the finalized version of this

 

I know this is an old thread. However, noob here trying to figure out this. Can I solder directly to the copper to activate the switch? In addition, can I run an additional pair of power wires from the Mk161 to power the remote instead of the AAA batteries

Thank you! I know nearly nothing about this and would love to make a YouTube video for helpless noobs like me. Thanks

 

Hi all. I'm fairly new to this...just soldered for the first time! put together the velleman mk161 for use in a 120" homegear projector screen. the mk161 seems like it works (clicking the button switches the light from the 2nd to the 3rd light). Questions:
1. how do i check that it does actually work remotely? I am using the harmony hub, and added K8049 as suggested, but nothing happens. Note, the relays are not connected to anything as of yet. do they need to be? I'd hate to go through the trouble only to find out the receiver is defective.
2. I need some details on what to actually solder if my kit proves to be put together correctly. took apart the remote, but it looked different to what was shown on this forum.

 

I think you need to post some pictures.

#1. Since the lights work, the relays should click. You can measure resistance or use the diode beep mode with a DVM connected to the NC and C of the relay. They should pulse close and open again.

#2. I suspect the idea is to connect the C and NO contacts across buttons of "an IR remote". Note, that in the one pictures qwitht he gold contacts, there is a common, to a few buttons. You do not need to compromise the remote and solder to the gold.

The MK161 should be set up for pulse and, of course, the IR has to be pointed to the IR window of the device,

You can scrape the green stuff (solder resist) to expose the copper or plated copper and solder to that. Holes are likely plated through and places to solder may be available on the other side.

 

Would be cool to see the finalized version of this

It’s nasty looking, but it works. Haha.

 

It works. Haha.

Amazing!

I ended up pulling off my own as well! Soldered direct to the same remote.