This LED-lamp has a touchsensitive button. I'm wondering if there is an way to solder a cord between to points, so the LED turns on as soon as it get power? Ignoring that pesky button.

 

Would also love a solution for this. Have been messing around with it on my own to no avail...

 

I see an inductor in there, that means there is a switched mode supply for the LEDs.
See if you can identify which device is controlling the switched mode supply by following the tracks from the inductor.
Then find its datasheet and see if it has an "enable" input.
Alternatively, but rather less likely, the LEDs might be switched by a power transistor after the switched-mode supply.

 

I see an inductor in there, that means there is a switched mode supply for the LEDs.
See if you can identify which device is controlling the switched mode supply by following the tracks from the inductor.
Then find its datasheet and see if it has an "enable" input.
Alternatively, but rather less likely, the LEDs might be switched by a power transistor after the switched-mode supply.

Sorry for the stupid question, but which one's the inductor?

 

Sorry for the stupid question, but which one's the inductor?

Grey square thing labelled "220".

 

It appears to be battery powered. If you want it on when it gets power just put the battery in and touch the pad once and it will be on until you pull the battery or it goes dead. Unless you're planning on using a different power source. As for tracing out the circuitry, that's not going to be easy, and possibly not possible due to what looks like a multi-layer PCB. That's not a cheap lamp, not if it's multi-layer PCB construction.

Usually we try to answer the question as posed. Sometimes we offer an alternative solution. My suggestion is to get a lamp that is simply powered from a source (AC or DC) and may have a switch. Switch it on and forget it - or however you intend to use the lamp.

 

It appears to be battery powered. If you want it on when it gets power just put the battery in and touch the pad once and it will be on until you pull the battery or it goes dead. Unless you're planning on using a different power source. As for tracing out the circuitry, that's not going to be easy, and possibly not possible due to what looks like a multi-layer PCB. That's not a cheap lamp, not if it's multi-layer PCB construction.

Usually we try to answer the question as posed. Sometimes we offer an alternative solution. My suggestion is to get a lamp that is simply powered from a source (AC or DC) and may have a switch. Switch it on and forget it - or however you intend to use the lamp.

It's actually about 10$ - so nothing overly fancy.

It can be powered using batteries or Micro-USB.

 

It can be powered using batteries or Micro-USB.

OK. But there are many lamps that can be battery or USB that aren't "Touch" switched. Why do you want to do away with the touch sensitive function?

 

OK. But there are many lamps that can be battery or USB that aren't "Touch" switched. Why do you want to do away with the touch sensitive function?

Don't know about OP, but personally I want to be able to turn it on and off using WiFi outlets.

 

Don't know about OP, but personally I want to be able to turn it on and off using WiFi outlets.

Have exactly same idea to control it with smart outlets. Thought maybe the controller can be “enabled” for the default on/off mode? Just trying and welcome suggestions.

 

Is that a capacitive touch switch?

Perhaps a small cap or resistor from the switch to one of the rails, to serve as a sort of POR... I don't know that's just a wild idea.

 

I see an inductor in there, that means there is a switched mode supply for the LEDs.
See if you can identify which device is controlling the switched mode supply by following the tracks from the inductor.
Then find its datasheet and see if it has an "enable" input.
Alternatively, but rather less likely, the LEDs might be switched by a power transistor after the switched-mode supply.

I believe that "inductor" is actually a battery contact spring, as the device is dual powered. So separating the touch function from the LED power system may be a serious challenge. AND, some of us just plain do not like touch switches.

 

some of us just plain do not like touch switches.

Wife hates them. Always trying to PUSH them, then gets frustrated when she doesn't get the response she wants.
Me? I don't mind them. But building them from scratch is beyond me.

 

I believe that "inductor" is actually a battery contact spring, as the device is dual powered. So separating the touch function from the LED power system may be a serious challenge. AND, some of us just plain do not like touch switches.

I know Ian0 is old, but I don't think he is old enough to confuse a battery contact spring with an inductor yet.

 

I see an inductor in there, that means there is a switched mode supply for the LEDs.

I believe that "inductor" is actually a battery contact spring

 

I know Ian0 is old, but I don't think he is old enough to confuse a battery contact spring with an inductor yet.

OK, I found it : L2, and that does look like part of a switcher circuit. I never did find "L1", though.

 

This LED-lamp has a touchsensitive button. I'm wondering if there is an way to solder a cord between to points, so the LED turns on as soon as it get power? Ignoring that pesky button.

hey ironyman, did you ever find a solution? just bought two of these expecting them to be smart switchable, only to find i'm stuck with that annoying button

 

Itshould be possible to bypass the touch switch portion, BUT probably there is also a switching regulator portion that is not good to bypass.

 

This LED-lamp has a touchsensitive button. I'm wondering if there is an way to solder a cord between to points, so the LED turns on as soon as it get power? Ignoring that pesky button.

Can you take sharper pictures of the chip numbers, one of them will be the touch button chip, ..

 

OK, here is the situation: That circuit board has both a touch switch, which might control more than just OFF/ON, AND a switcher-mode LED driver system. Doing enough analysis to locate the division between the two will be rather complex, given the large number of components. The PCB is at least double sided, I doubt that it is multi-layer though.

So converting it to an externally controlled scheme would be a major hack
But there might be some scheme to force it to switch on when external power is first supplied. Read the literature that came with it.