Hi everyone,
I have a valmetal silo unloader control panel with a remote control winch. I cannot figure out the reversing winch part of the wiring diagram. They don't lable any motor leads. It just doesn't seem possible to make this single phase motor reverse with just 3 wires shown.

My 1hp motor isn't the same model as the 3/4hp listed on the paper, but the wiring seems to be the same on baldors website.

Does anyone know what leads would go where from the motor at 240 volts if it is possible? It's the lowest circuit on the paper. The other contactors run the 10hp motor and the 3/4hp ring drive.

Sorry about the black bars on the photos I just used screenshots to shink the file sizes.

 

It does not show the Capacitor connections.
It is reversing the polarity of the start winding.

 

What is the back story?
Why are you using 1HP FDL3510M motor instead of 3/4HP FDL3506M motor (regardless of whether wiring diagrams are same)?
Did this ever work?
Did the 3/4HP motor fail so you're replacing it?
Is this something brand new that you're just now trying to get working?
Did You buy it used and this motor was just "thrown in" ?

 

This is the motor that came with a used winch I got from an auction. Everything else is new. It was 100 bucks vs 1800 for a new winch/motor combo. It was ran with a drum switch I would've kept, but I want the remote kit to raise it from the silo chute. The lables on the contactor box are listed for 1hp motors and the overload is factory set for a 1hp winch so I assume a new winch would come with 1hp.

The valmetal dealer is going to likely finish the unloader assembly this week. They said they hire a 3rd party electrician to do the electrical when I asked if they could finish wiring it when they show up. I have the rest of it wired so it would be nice to avoid sending one out to let me know it's not compatible.

 

OK well I agree with your original assessment that the wiring scheme provided is not compatible with the FDL3510M motor you have, and also not compatible with the FDL3507M called out in the prints. They probably used a different kind of motor before, and maybe that one is obsolete or long lead time, so they changed the motor spec not realizing it was a totally different configuration. Or some other explanation, they overlooked something somewhere. Sounds to me like the dealer knows about this issue and is pushing it off on you to hire an electrician since you're providing the motor. If they were providing the motor then they would have to fix the screw-up one way or another, either a wiring change or a different (compatible) motor. Can you make wiring changes to the system without voiding warranty? Here are the options I see:

• You make changes to the system to make this motor work (warranty concerns). It might be a pain in the ass.
• You supply a new motor that is compatible. (will require research, a different kind of pain in the ass).
• You buy a motor from them, it ships, it's not compatible, it's their problem, eventually they (have to) solve it one way or another.
  • Or, you buy a motor from them, since they already know it won't work, they simply send one that will, easy-peasy.
• You just take in the shorts like they already suggested you do, and hire an electrician.
• You force them to acknowledge the mistake and issue a correction even though they won't see a dime of profit since you already have a motor, only loss because they'll have to do free work. Depending on the dealer this could be the biggest pain in the ass of all. It's the RIGHT answer, but good luck. They already gave you indication of how this will go if you try it.

 

Hold up, I missed a crucial word the first time I read through...

They said they hire a 3rd party electrician to do the electrical when I asked if they could finish wiring it when they show up.

I read "They said hire a 3rd party electrician to do the electrical" and I took that to mean "sorry bud, that's not our motor, that's on you..."

That one word changes everything.

So what I would do is tell them the motor isn't going to work and they can send out an electrician if they want but you really recommend having Engineering look at that before wasting money on an Electrician.

 

If the drum switch was still connected AND you could verify that it was able to run the motor in both directions correctly, THEN it would be fairly simple to trace the connection scheme for each direction.
Otherwise, as Max states, the start winding connection needs to be reversed to start it in the opposite direction. So you need toknow which connections are the start section and which are the run section.

 

If the drum switch was still connected AND you could verify that it was able to run the motor in both directions correctly, THEN it would be fairly simple to trace the connection scheme for each direction.
Otherwise, as Max states, the start winding connection needs to be reversed to start it in the opposite direction. So you need toknow which connections are the start section and which are the run section.

The motor will require a minimum of 5 wires ran back to the control box and a 4 pole reversing contactor pair. Whether the old drum switch is working or not, this panel is is not drawn properly or equipped properly to reverse the motor that is called out on its own prints.