PSU Blown components identification

Old thread, but my 5yr old philips air fryer just stopped working(no power). HD9240

I have taken it apart and noticed the resisters are blown, capacitor 10uf has bludge, and viper chip split.

I have replaced the two resisters with 33R/3W resisters, and 10uF 50V, as well as the viper16LN chip from RS. Tried powering ON but it is still the same, like no power to the unit. I have opened the touch display and all looks fine, clean.

Anyone encountered similar issues?
Try replacing your 10uF cap with higher voltage rating. Say 10uf 400v ang replace your bridge rectifier.
 

imaz01

Joined Mar 21, 2021
7
Try replacing your 10uF cap with higher voltage rating. Say 10uf 400v ang replace your bridge rectifier.
What does a bridge rectifier look like?

Im worried the bits and pieces will cost over $100 overall. The rev 3 board and new display costs about $105 new - just hesitate as it has more connections than the one I have...
 
What does a bridge rectifier look like?

Im worried the bits and pieces will cost over $100 overall. The rev 3 board and new display costs about $105 new - just hesitate as it has more connections than the one I have...
The bridge rectifier is the black square with 4 legs at the bottom of the PSU. Its SDB107.
 

sagor

Joined Mar 10, 2019
903
Oh... I need to find the type, and will try replacing it then.. Is there a way to test a fuse? contiuous?
You test a fuse with a standard ohm meter. It should read almost a dead short across the fuse. If it has a very high resistance (megaohms or higher), then it is open/blown.
 

imaz01

Joined Mar 21, 2021
7
All,

So the fuse has finally arrived from RS, and I have replaced it. Nada - still fails to show any power whatsoever. I know the last couple replies suggest the bridge rectifier - but I'm gonna cut my losses on the amount of parts I have today, and boot the unit as far as the football field. Thanks for your advises, over and out - to by a new cheapie.
 

skyc

Joined Aug 17, 2020
3
All,

So the fuse has finally arrived from RS, and I have replaced it. Nada - still fails to show any power whatsoever. I know the last couple replies suggest the bridge rectifier - but I'm gonna cut my losses on the amount of parts I have today, and boot the unit as far as the football field. Thanks for your advises, over and out - to by a new cheapie.
Hi,
Have you checked the thermal fuse (not on the mainboard).

ooops just read you are done with it.
 

skyc

Joined Aug 17, 2020
3
Hi

My Airfryer has failed agian after my last fix. this time, besides the usual suspects, it involved more components D1 and the coating of the 2.2 mh inductor came off which exposed the copper winding.

Can I replace the Ferrite Leaded Inductor 2.2 mh with Axial Fixed Inductor (color Ring Inductor DIP inductance) 2.2mh. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...exp_id=01bafe61-5084-429b-abd3-45c9b5241679-7

(((((If anyone could confirm what D1 is that would be great too. I read from this thread that I could use a 60V schottky diode. I cant seems to find the smd size which is about 1.7mm by 1.5mm is the one on the broad right now. However, I cant find a size thats suitable they all seems to be larger (maybe I just don't understand their coding system. )))))

Just re-read the thread I will try 1N4007 .
mmmm 1N4007 is rated 1000v 1A (confused)


Thanks for you help in advance.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

adam.xu

Joined Aug 27, 2021
1
Hi

My Airfryer has failed agian after my last fix. this time, besides the usual suspects, it involved more components D1 and the coating of the 2.2 mh inductor came off which exposed the copper winding.

Can I replace the Ferrite Leaded Inductor 2.2 mh with Axial Fixed Inductor (color Ring Inductor DIP inductance) 2.2mh. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...exp_id=01bafe61-5084-429b-abd3-45c9b5241679-7

(((((If anyone could confirm what D1 is that would be great too. I read from this thread that I could use a 60V schottky diode. I cant seems to find the smd size which is about 1.7mm by 1.5mm is the one on the broad right now. However, I cant find a size thats suitable they all seems to be larger (maybe I just don't understand their coding system. )))))

Just re-read the thread I will try 1N4007 .
mmmm 1N4007 is rated 1000v 1A (confused)


Thanks for you help in advance.
I'm ordering components to fix my one, that's why I found this place.
This inductor is for power ripple suppression, and can be used with any inductor of similar value and size.
The diode can use any normal diode to replace except Zener.
 

Ali one

Joined Dec 31, 2021
2
Hi,
I am a DIY newbie, I have the same issue with the HD 9240 PCB's 33R resistors and the cap. However I also removed the 22k ohm resistor. I did a reading on that ( I presume it is a resistor) and it returned 6.6R. It looks perfectly fine but did anyone has the same problem. Is this resistor a 3w rated too?

View attachment 214948Thanks
This is 2.2 mH inductor
 

Cybob

Joined Jul 9, 2017
1
Hi Michael those resistors are orange white and black. 1/2watt

Hi Guys,

I am trying to repair the PSU on two Philips Airfryers HD9240 - I have looked for the schematics online but cant find anything. One of these units is my own and one with the exact same fault on a friends. Naturally both just out of warranty.

I have narrowed it down to two blown resistors and a 50v 10uf capacitor. One of the boards a Viper 16L IC has cracked as well, I suspect from the heat when the capacitor went, so will be replacing them on both boards as well.

The capacitor and the IC are easy enough to identify, the issue I am having is trying to identify the correct replacement resistors. On both boards they are blackened and cracked open. I cannot make out all the colours, they both start with brown and end with gold. the rest I am not sure of, if it is discolorationdue to heat or not, also not sure if they are 4 or 5 band resistors - depending on the light you look under, it could be either. I tried measuring them on a DMM but they are dead.

unfortunately I do not know enough about circuit design to be able to work out what is needed.

If anybody has repaired one of these before or knows where I can get hold of the schematics it would be greatly appreciated - or if there is a way to work out the value of the resistors... (I have seen some articles on scratching off the insulation and trying to measure it that way so might go down that route)

Please see pics of board and resistors.

thanks in advance!
-Mike
 

cbv2092

Joined Sep 28, 2022
1
I replaced the chip, capacitor and resistors. It doesn't short out anymore, display will light up for halve a sec. and will do that blinking wise. Would this be the cause of the bridge rectifier?

If any one needs the above chips, capacitor and resistors, give me a message, I have spares.
Hai.. how you solve your blinking problem. Mine same problem as you
 

qwerty13

Joined Feb 6, 2024
1
Hi guys
This thread is very helpful, I repair the supply by replacing viper16, two resistors and 10uF cap but now I have an odd problem:
If I plug the power cord while touch display's connector is unplugged, I have 12 and 5 volt on it and by plugging display's connector everything works fine; but if I plug the power cord while display's connector is plugged previously, I have not voltage (5v became something negative and 12v became ~3.7v) and display doesn't work anymore and the viper IC starts to became hot .

I feel happy if someone help me about this.
 
Top