Hello all,
I've finally took the courage to attempt to fix my HD9240 airfryer. Same issue as others reported, didn't power up anymore. I've opened it and the two resistors were cracked. Replaced them with 33 ohm 5W 5% that I've sourced from conrad, turned on for 2 secs and the resistors heat up to the point of started to glow.
I've replaced the Viper16L and now the unit doesn't blow resistors anymore but the panel doesn't power on either.

Does anyone knows what else I can test (very limited knowledge in electronics) to check if something else is broken that I can replace to avoid spending 190 eur in a new airfryer XL ?

I appreciate all the knowledge already present in this thread.

Cheers.

 

Hi,
I am a DIY newbie, I have the same issue with the HD 9240 PCB's 33R resistors and the cap. However I also removed the 22k ohm resistor. I did a reading on that ( I presume it is a resistor) and it returned 6.6R. It looks perfectly fine but did anyone has the same problem. Is this resistor a 3w rated too?

Thanks

 

Hello all,
I've opened it and the two resistors were cracked. Replaced them with 33 ohm 5W 5% that I've sourced from conrad, turned on for 2 secs and the resistors heat up to the point of started to glow.
I've replaced the Viper16L and now the unit doesn't blow resistors anymore but the panel doesn't power on either.

Just for the sake of archives. I did not spot that the 10uF 50V cap had blown up on its underside. Replaced it and it works smoothly.

 

I replaced the chip, capacitor and resistors. It doesn't short out anymore, display will light up for halve a sec. and will do that blinking wise. Would this be the cause of the bridge rectifier?

If any one needs the above chips, capacitor and resistors, give me a message, I have spares.

Hi
I know its been a long time since you posted this.
Just wondering how you went with your repairs.

I got the same problem but on first glace my i thought my resistors read Orange, White, Silver, Gold
39 Ohms, 5%, Metal Film. While others read Orange, Orange, Black, Gold 33 Ohms 5%, Metal Film.

And there are some other posts that read it is as Orange, White, Silver, Gold 19 Ohms, 5%, Metal Film.
My old eyes can't be sure now. Photos look more like its brown, but i could have sworn the first time I looked it was more orange.

 

Hi, may I know the type of D1 I should use?

 

@Skyk the part you are referring to in the pic is an inductor.
@2 AM the resistors are for current limiting purposes, value is non critical, use a (minimal) 3W type
@blackby.test Use a general Schottky diode, 60V

 

@Skyk the part you are referring to in the pic is an inductor.
@2 AM the resistors are for current limiting purposes, value is non critical, use a (minimal) 3W type
@blackby.test Use a general Schottky diode, 60V

Thanks,
I can't get it and only have a7, c2 and t4 and I don't know which one is suitable

 

Thanks,
I can't get it and only have a7, c2 and t4 and I don't know which one is suitable

Anyone help me please

 

Anyone help me please

 

Anyone help ?

 

Those are somewhat ambiguous part numbers. As best I can tell, A7 = 1N4007 (1000V, 1A); C2 is a zener diode and not appropriate; T4 is 1N4148 (100V, 250 mA). The 1N4148 is often used as a small signal diode, but it can be used as a rectifier.

None of them are Schottky, but a non-Schottky may work. I have not reviewed the entire thread. (EDIT: No idea of the current the diode may handle. If within the range of the 1N4148, then I might use that.) I would try to get what is recommended. If that is impossible, I would give the 1N4007 a try as it has the higher current rating.

 

Hi,
I am a DIY newbie, I have the same issue with the HD 9240 PCB's 33R resistors and the cap. However I also removed the 22k ohm resistor. I did a reading on that ( I presume it is a resistor) and it returned 6.6R. It looks perfectly fine but did anyone has the same problem. Is this resistor a 3w rated too?

View attachment 214948Thanks

This is an inductor, not a resistor!! 2.2 mH

 

Shout out to everyone. This thread was indeed very helpful. Just finished the repair of Philips Air Fryer HD9240. Replaced the following components.
Viper16L, 2x33ohm3W res, 10uF/50V, SDB107 Bridge Rectifier. D1 (I used 1N4007). Works fine. Saves me a lot, with lots of Spare Parts.

 

Old thread, but my 5yr old philips air fryer just stopped working(no power). HD9240

I have taken it apart and noticed the resisters are blown, capacitor 10uf has bludge, and viper chip split.

I have replaced the two resisters with 33R/3W resisters, and 10uF 50V, as well as the viper16LN chip from RS. Tried powering ON but it is still the same, like no power to the unit. I have opened the touch display and all looks fine, clean.

Anyone encountered similar issues?

 

Here are some photos before and after.

I still can’t figure what else is required to get this running.

 

Here are some photos before and after.

I still can’t figure what else is required to get this running.

View attachment 233313View attachment 233313View attachment 233310View attachment 233311View attachment 233312View attachment 233313

Did you check the fuse and measured the (secundairy) supply voltage?

 

Did you check the fuse and measured the (secundairy) supply voltage?

Thanks for the reply, I could not see any fuses. Can you point me to where the location is on the unit?

 

Thanks for the reply, I could not see any fuses. Can you point me to where the location is on the unit?

The little round brown thing is a 1.6A fuse....

 

The little round brown thing is a 1.6A fuse....

Oh... I need to find the type, and will try replacing it then.. Is there a way to test a fuse? contiuous?

 

Oh... I need to find the type, and will try replacing it then.. Is there a way to test a fuse? contiuous?

https://nl.rs-online.com/web/p/non-resettable-wire-ended-fuses/2266583/