I've been doing soldering for ages. But this is the first time I've had to implement a "soldering production line" of sorts in which several people are tasked with soldering #24 ga wires into PCB's. The soldering equipment I'm using is of the "Cheap-o-matic" brand. That is, they're simple, primitive soldering pencils.

Well, after a rather clumsy start, I discovered that not all soldering tips are created equal, nor even close alike. The tips do not hold on to the solder at all because they're not pre-tinned, and melted balls are created that dance around the PCB until they find a hot spot and finally get attached and then flow into it. I know that the key to proper soldering lies all in the way that heat flows into the parts. But I have been unable to make things work the way I'd like them to.

In example, after soldering a couple of hundred cables, the tip got badly corroded and quickly wore out ... what's the deal? ... am I using too much flux?

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I've seen those kinds of tips before. They burn up because they're poor quality. If you want to do a job well then get the right tools. Saving money often costs more. It's like stepping over dollars to pick up dimes.

No, those tips won't last. Even if you keep them in a pool of solder, they'll still degrade and sublime. They are likely also contaminating your solder joints. If high quality solder joints are needed then stay away from the dime store tips.

Flux IS hard on tips. More aggressive fluxes will degrade a tip quicker. But a good tip will stand up to a lot of flux before it starts to degrade to where it doesn't want to tin up.

 

The tip cleaning sponge is burnt because it was wrongly used dry when it should be damp with water.
The cheap "controller" circuit probably is a simple light dimmer that does not sense the temperature so the tip begins much too hot then soldering things cools it too much.

 

If the top picture is one of the soldering stations, no wonder you are having problems! The sponge should be so soaking aking wet. Rubbing the tip on a dry sponge burns the sponge and contaminates the tip.

 

I've been doing soldering for ages. But this is the first time I've had to implement a "soldering production line" of sorts in which several people are tasked with soldering #24 ga wires into PCB's. The soldering equipment I'm using is of the "Cheap-o-matic" brand. That is, they're simple, primitive soldering pencils.

Well, after a rather clumsy start, I discovered that not all soldering tips are created equal, nor even close alike. The tips do not hold on to the solder at all because they're not pre-tinned, and melted balls are created that dance around the PCB until they find a hot spot and finally get attached and then flow into it. I know that the key to proper soldering lies all in the way that heat flows into the parts. But I have been unable to make things work the way I'd like them to.

In example, after soldering a couple of hundred cables, the tip got badly corroded and quickly wore out ... what's the deal? ... am I using too much flux?

View attachment 285029 View attachment 285028​

From the look of the sponge, two things are going on—excessive heat, perhaps to try to overcome the poor wetting of the top, and a lack of cleaning since that sponge must have been dry.

While those tips are not generally going to last, they could probably last a lot longer if you made sure the temperature was correct and the tip was cleaned every time. I prefer the bronze wool, and it has the advantage of not needing water. But if oyu are going to use the sponge, make sure it is kept wet!

Also, invest in some tip cleaner and use it every so often to recondition the tip.

 

Also, what alloy and flux are you using?

 

One more thing, I don’t know what sort of wires you are using, but it’s probably a good idea to invest in a solder pot or two and put some 60/40 alloy in it to tin the wires before trying to solder them.

Solder pots are cheap and the results are much better. Be sure to get a piece of heavy screen, like a bunsen burner screen for a tripod, to cover the pot when not in use and cooling. It can splash as it cools down.

 

One of two things burns up tips. Poor material quality tips and too high temps. I sent some medium point tips back to Amazon (yeah I should know better) because half of the lot burned out in a couple of days! Just crap! I use eutectic solder and keep the tip temp @ 350°C. As for tip tinner, I bought this stuff several years ago and still using the same tin. I use it on new tips pre-tinned or not. Also, rarely, to re-tin a tip or to clean one when it gets real gunky. I also use a brass sponge instead of a wet fiber one.

 

It took me many years to realize that I was doing something wrong.
Never clean the tip with anything abrasive. For example, never rub a file or sand paper over the tip.

 

I think (part of) the problem is that some manufacturers skip the iron layer. The tip needs to be copper to transfer heat, but most solders will dissolve copper forming an alloy, so it is not enough just to tin a copper tip. Plating steel on copper is tricky business, and those with reliable methods keep them private, so knockoffs are not made well at all. The cheap tips have very little if any iron layer so the solder just starts eating away at the copper.

 

This sounds like a commercial operation so you must be using lead-free solder. First, get a good alloy, TSC not 99S or 99C (99S may give problems with tin-pest below 7°C so is well worth avoiding).
Better solder will have better flux.
Get a solder pot and dip the wires first to tin them.
Lead free is particularly hard on tips, the famous Weller TCP doesn’t like it at all, but the WSP80 is fine.
Use a large tip, not too pointy. if you use a small tip, you will have to run it hotter to get enough heat into the joint, and that will oxidise the solder when the iron is not in use.
Keep the sponge damp (your sponge looks as though it has burned from having dried out).
Finally, if you are doing this commercially, you must have fume extraction.

 

Thank you all for your observations and advice. Yes, that burnt sponge was a mistake. Unfortunately I assigned a person to start soldering without properly supervising him. But that's been corrected.

• The observations about solder quality have not gone unnoticed. The alloy I'm using is 60/40.
• This is an industrial application, not a commercial one. So the use of lead-free solder is not required.
• The suggestion about using a solder pot to tin the wires has also been duly noticed. I'm getting myself one right away.
• @Halfpint786 's observation about the tip's iron layer has been an eye opener. It makes perfect sense. So considering that, I expect most of my problems to go away if I were to buy a decent brand soldering station and use good quality tips. I'm planning on buying this Weller Soldering Station.

 

A question. What type of solder would be best for this application? 60/40 or 63/37 ?

 

• I'm planning on buying this Weller Soldering Station.

I’ve got one of those at work, and I have a PU81/WSP80 at home. They are both much better than the good old TCP with lead-free solder but the WSP80 is better than the WE1010.
The WE1010 also shuts down to 180°C when it doesn’t think it is being used, which can be rather irksome!
There aren’t many “industrial” applications left where leaded solder is still acceptable.

 

Seems like it has good reports, https://www.amazon.com/Weller-Digital-Soldering-Station-WE1010NA/dp/B077JDGY1J?th=1
I am thinking of replacing my cheaper Weller i bought a couple of years ago and was not that impressed with it, being a Weller!

 

I’d thoroughly recommend the WSP80. I find the pencil better balanced than the 1010 and just altogether nicer to use; but then, I like “screwdriver” shaped soldering tips and you lot all prefer the conical ones, so don’t take any notice of me!

 

I have a lot of tips left over from my old original Weller, I cannot use them on this present one, but they look very similar to the WE1010 variety, anyone have the barrel dia of the 1010?

 

I own an old WES51, and it works ok. But its ability to sustain a stable temperature sucks. I'm also thinking about using flat tipped "screwdriver" tips for this application. Soldering a wire to a PCB requires heating a larger work area than an ordinary electronic component, I would guess.

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And another thing. The tips used by the WE1010NA are compatible with the WES51.

 

I have a lot of tips left over from my old original Weller, I cannot use them on this present one, but they look very similar to the WE1010 variety, anyone have the barrel dia of the 1010?

The tips are hollow, and the element goes inside them, unlike the WSP80 where the tips have a flat end.