I know this is an old thread but this is precisely the information that I am looking to use for one of my projects. There are, however, no longer any pictures or schematics available in this thread.(the ones listed do not work with eagle or PADS) Does anyone know where I can find this information?

 

This is why we don't like off sit image hosting. During a site upgrade to https they got left behind. AAC has tons of graphics support please use it

 

This is why we don't like off sit image hosting. During a site upgrade to https they got left behind. AAC has tons of graphics support please use it

Hi,
I understand the pictures are gone, but if either of the members who build these is still here and could provide me with a schematic, I would greatly appreciate it. My wife ran over and killed my son's dog yesterday. He was by the back wheel and was probably bumped by one of the larger dogs, so I am hoping to build something like this to put in our cars so it never happens again. I only build tube amplifiers, and know very little about digital circuits and microcontrollers, but I think with a schematic, my son and his robotics team team-mates can likely manage this project.
Thank you.
Todd

 

This is why we don't like off sit image hosting. During a site upgrade to https they got left behind. AAC has tons of graphics support please use it

Yeah... um, no. the graphic support here is not very good. I'd love to post more images, but frankly I never can. the image chooser doesn't work (I can pick a file, but it won't put the filename in the dialog, so it won't hilite the 'add' button), or if somehow I get a graphic to upload while messing around with 'more options' it will duplicate it, and I'll wind up with several. Just, um. No. whomever does web-coding on this sight really needs to be let go, or learn how to properly code.

The only browser I can even use is Chrome, because the thread input in the forum doesn't work in other browsers (like firefox). Not only that, it tends to remember and cache content you don't want to submit, so when you do, you find content for a different thread gets put in, so you have to edit your entry to remove it.

No, AAC was much better with the old sight when it was non-commercial.

And yes, I have room to speak, I'm an authority on web-design and CMS development.

 

Hi,
I understand the pictures are gone, but if either of the members who build these is still here and could provide me with a schematic, I would greatly appreciate it. My wife ran over and killed my son's dog yesterday. He was by the back wheel and was probably bumped by one of the larger dogs, so I am hoping to build something like this to put in our cars so it never happens again. I only build tube amplifiers, and know very little about digital circuits and microcontrollers, but I think with a schematic, my son and his robotics team team-mates can likely manage this project.
Thank you.
Todd

Sorry about your loss. My wife also ran over our cat (the one on the left in my avatar) this summer and the only thing I could think of was how horrible I would have felt had it been me.

Anyway, I'm also sorry that the photos in this thread are no longer available. None were supplied by me and I didn't make copies of the ones supplied by the TS.

 

There is the upload a file option and the galleries any pictures uploaded to this site are like an insect in amber basically stuck here forever. When I was new to AAC I took the time to learn how to do graphics, I have never regretted it. I would be more than happy to shew you how it is done. There are several ways to do it all work equally well.I occasionally modify other people posts to make their graphic presentations better. My preferred graphic format is .png.

 

There is the upload a file option and the galleries any pictures uploaded to this site are like an insect in amber basically stuck here forever. When I was new to AAC I took the time to learn how to do graphics, I have never regretted it. I would be more than happy to shew you how it is done. There are several ways to do it all work equally well.I occasionally modify other people posts to make their graphic presentations better. My preferred graphic format is .png.

The poster was looking for the photos originally part of this thread. Any chance they could still be in a gallery somewhere?

 

Hi,
I understand the pictures are gone, but if either of the members who build these is still here and could provide me with a schematic, I would greatly appreciate it. My wife ran over and killed my son's dog yesterday. He was by the back wheel and was probably bumped by one of the larger dogs, so I am hoping to build something like this to put in our cars so it never happens again. I only build tube amplifiers, and know very little about digital circuits and microcontrollers, but I think with a schematic, my son and his robotics team team-mates can likely manage this project.
Thank you.
Todd

I was at a veterinarian office last year and it had advertised what was apparently a GPS version of the older buried-wire invisible fence. As I recall, they were not user programmable and changing the program required sending the device into Invisible Fence. However, if you really want a project, a DIY version that you can set the borders for would keep you busy for awhile. Your son with his robotics experience would be an indispensable help.

 

The poster was looking for the photos originally part of this thread. Any chance they could still be in a gallery somewhere?

Only if they were ever upload to AAC, I don't think they were, This is why I so strongly encourage people to upload to here instead of somewhere else..

Maybe I should write a tutorial without waiting for a request?

 

Thank you all for asking, and for the sympathy.
I will discuss this with a few people tomorrow at the Robotics Team meeting. I won't pretend to understand what the GPS idea is. I just want their collars to beep when they come within 6 or 8 feet our car if the engine is running.
Maybe I can find a way to power the indoor transmitter from the car and to boost its signal to transmit past the car's exterior. I think those require 19V and less than .8 amps.

 

Only if they were ever upload to AAC, I don't think they were, This is why I so strongly encourage people to upload to here instead of somewhere else..

I suppose it could be 'encouraged' a bit more sternly by not allowing links to off-site media for the fora other than Off Topic. (If linked jokes or photos disappear in a few years, I don't think it's a big loss. And in the meanwhile it's a great convenience to just put in a quick link instead of bothering to put the content on the AAC server.) If the photos are important to the thread, as these were, they're probably already in the possession of the poster and should be uploaded.

 

The sad part is they might exist somewhere on this site, I freely admit I am not the brightest penny in the jar, as a moderator I can modify existing posts (and occasionally do. I use M$ Paint to resize photos and draw schematics, There is one helpful user @Bernard who takes pictures of hand drawn schematics to post them, I think I may have suggested it to him, It works. I like to keep my files on my computer on my terabyte hard drive to avoid paper clutter

Wendy's Index

I am also a bit of an archivist, though the stroke interferes mentally with that.

 

The sad part is they might exist somewhere on this site, I freely admit I am not the brightest penny in the jar, as a moderator I can modify existing posts (and occasionally do. I use M$ Paint to resize photos and draw schematics, There is one helpful user @Bernard who takes pictures of hand drawn schematics to post them, I think I may have suggested it to him, It works. I like to keep my files on my computer on my terabyte hard drive to avoid paper clutter

Wendy's Index

I am also a bit of an archivist, though the stroke interferes mentally with that.

 

So we have this pet containment system by PetSafe.

I did a little web search for the patents on the transmitter and actually found FCC tests that laid out the wave patterns needed (and a schematic of the unit I had actually).

After some messing around and fiddling with the oscilloscope, I got the thing to work. The power levels are adjustable to FAR more than I'd need. The only part that gets warm to the touch is the voltage regulator, but I can always throw a heat sink on that.

The schematic:

The dsPIC30F2012 does 2 important things: it supplies the signal and timing, and it detects oscillation fault.

The waveform for the PetSafe system uses a signal at about 10.66 kHz. The signal is amplitude modulated between zero signal, low signal and high signal. RB2 provides a 10.66 kHz square wave during the low and high phases, and RB3 biases the signal depending on the high or low phase. The two are mixed into the base of Q1.

Q1 feeds a high power switching transistor (Q2), which I had harvested out of an old power supply. I tested other power supply NPN transistors which also worked: C2810, C5027, E13009, E13007F2, and STD13007.

LED2 is a simple continuity checker. D1 is there to prevent inductive kick-back (not sure if even needed).

T1 is some spare wire wrapped around a ferrite core (from an old PSU). C1 values might be different for different size loops. T1, C1 and the loop act as a tuned circuit, so fiddling might yield good results depending on your setup.

The other side of T1 generates about 2.5v when the circuit is oscillating. The LM311 is used to detect this signal and discharge C5. When the oscillation stops, C5 will charge up, the output being fed to the dsPIC's RB4 lead. When the program sees this happen, it lights up the fault LED.

LS1-LS4 are for diagnostics, and currently just light up back and forth for amusement.

C2, C4, C3 and C2 are just there to provide clean stable power to the board.

I'm no brain surgeon, so I am sure there are MANY ways to improve this circuit, not the least of which would be to add some sort of fuse to the output stage in case of short circuit.

If anyone's interested in the code for the dsPIC, or for the general waveforms that should be outputted in case you're using a different MCU, just let me know.

At any rate, thought I would share the schematic. It's been up and running for a couple of days now, and seems to work fine!

p.s. I plan on building a couple of these, one for the car, which is the main reason I used a regulator to handle 12v instead of just using a 5v supply. (our Jack Russel likes to charge after cars, we'd like to train that behavior out!).

I have a PetSafe with a fairly large layout - about 7 acres and 2,600 ft of wire. The cable I used is custom with fiber reinforcement and a jacket to minimize damage. The wire is copper coated tin for cost.

With this said, the signal I get is very low - the radiation off the wire is only about 1.5-2 ft, and I have big dogs, so they sometimes go through it.

I can not see the schematics posted, but am interested in buying a simple amplifier for the fence. Can anyone point me to a source? If there isn't a ready source, how can I get the schematics to try and build the amplifier section of this project?

Thanks for your help.

 

So we have this pet containment system by PetSafe. It's the buried wire type that transmits around the 10.66 kHz range. Our buried wire perimeter encircles around 2 acres of yard, so it's a decently large loop.

We've now had our 2nd transmitter fail (over about 11 years), which isn't THAT bad on average. At about $100 a pop, they're not super expensive, but I figured I'd see if I could cobble together one on my own with spare parts laying around on the cheap (and maybe amp up the power a bit for areas where the line is buried deeper and doesn't trigger the collar all that well)

One barrier of entry on this project is that it requires an MCU, in my case a dsPIC30F2012. This particular chip is WAY overkill for such a purpose, but I had it around, and it's a $4-5 part or so. Most any 5v MCU will do the trick.

I did a little web search for the patents on the transmitter and actually found FCC tests that laid out the wave patterns needed (and a schematic of the unit I had actually).

After some messing around and fiddling with the oscilloscope, I got the thing to work. The power levels are adjustable to FAR more than I'd need. The only part that gets warm to the touch is the voltage regulator, but I can always throw a heat sink on that.

The schematic:

The dsPIC30F2012 does 2 important things: it supplies the signal and timing, and it detects oscillation fault.

The waveform for the PetSafe system uses a signal at about 10.66 kHz. The signal is amplitude modulated between zero signal, low signal and high signal. RB2 provides a 10.66 kHz square wave during the low and high phases, and RB3 biases the signal depending on the high or low phase. The two are mixed into the base of Q1.

Q1 feeds a high power switching transistor (Q2), which I had harvested out of an old power supply. I tested other power supply NPN transistors which also worked: C2810, C5027, E13009, E13007F2, and STD13007.

LED2 is a simple continuity checker. D1 is there to prevent inductive kick-back (not sure if even needed).

T1 is some spare wire wrapped around a ferrite core (from an old PSU). C1 values might be different for different size loops. T1, C1 and the loop act as a tuned circuit, so fiddling might yield good results depending on your setup.

The other side of T1 generates about 2.5v when the circuit is oscillating. The LM311 is used to detect this signal and discharge C5. When the oscillation stops, C5 will charge up, the output being fed to the dsPIC's RB4 lead. When the program sees this happen, it lights up the fault LED.

LS1-LS4 are for diagnostics, and currently just light up back and forth for amusement.

C2, C4, C3 and C2 are just there to provide clean stable power to the board.

I'm no brain surgeon, so I am sure there are MANY ways to improve this circuit, not the least of which would be to add some sort of fuse to the output stage in case of short circuit.

If anyone's interested in the code for the dsPIC, or for the general waveforms that should be outputted in case you're using a different MCU, just let me know.

At any rate, thought I would share the schematic. It's been up and running for a couple of days now, and seems to work fine!

p.s. I plan on building a couple of these, one for the car, which is the main reason I used a regulator to handle 12v instead of just using a 5v supply. (our Jack Russel likes to charge after cars, we'd like to train that behavior out!).

Would it be possible to build a small transmitter that is battery powered that I can attach to my cat? Seriously I want my dog to leave my cat alone and this would be an option if the transmitter could be made small enough.

So we have this pet containment system by PetSafe. It's the buried wire type that transmits around the 10.66 kHz range. Our buried wire perimeter encircles around 2 acres of yard, so it's a decently large loop.

We've now had our 2nd transmitter fail (over about 11 years), which isn't THAT bad on average. At about $100 a pop, they're not super expensive, but I figured I'd see if I could cobble together one on my own with spare parts laying around on the cheap (and maybe amp up the power a bit for areas where the line is buried deeper and doesn't trigger the collar all that well)

One barrier of entry on this project is that it requires an MCU, in my case a dsPIC30F2012. This particular chip is WAY overkill for such a purpose, but I had it around, and it's a $4-5 part or so. Most any 5v MCU will do the trick.

I did a little web search for the patents on the transmitter and actually found FCC tests that laid out the wave patterns needed (and a schematic of the unit I had actually).

After some messing around and fiddling with the oscilloscope, I got the thing to work. The power levels are adjustable to FAR more than I'd need. The only part that gets warm to the touch is the voltage regulator, but I can always throw a heat sink on that.

The schematic:

The dsPIC30F2012 does 2 important things: it supplies the signal and timing, and it detects oscillation fault.

The waveform for the PetSafe system uses a signal at about 10.66 kHz. The signal is amplitude modulated between zero signal, low signal and high signal. RB2 provides a 10.66 kHz square wave during the low and high phases, and RB3 biases the signal depending on the high or low phase. The two are mixed into the base of Q1.

Q1 feeds a high power switching transistor (Q2), which I had harvested out of an old power supply. I tested other power supply NPN transistors which also worked: C2810, C5027, E13009, E13007F2, and STD13007.

LED2 is a simple continuity checker. D1 is there to prevent inductive kick-back (not sure if even needed).

T1 is some spare wire wrapped around a ferrite core (from an old PSU). C1 values might be different for different size loops. T1, C1 and the loop act as a tuned circuit, so fiddling might yield good results depending on your setup.

The other side of T1 generates about 2.5v when the circuit is oscillating. The LM311 is used to detect this signal and discharge C5. When the oscillation stops, C5 will charge up, the output being fed to the dsPIC's RB4 lead. When the program sees this happen, it lights up the fault LED.

LS1-LS4 are for diagnostics, and currently just light up back and forth for amusement.

C2, C4, C3 and C2 are just there to provide clean stable power to the board.

I'm no brain surgeon, so I am sure there are MANY ways to improve this circuit, not the least of which would be to add some sort of fuse to the output stage in case of short circuit.

If anyone's interested in the code for the dsPIC, or for the general waveforms that should be outputted in case you're using a different MCU, just let me know.

At any rate, thought I would share the schematic. It's been up and running for a couple of days now, and seems to work fine!

p.s. I plan on building a couple of these, one for the car, which is the main reason I used a regulator to handle 12v instead of just using a 5v supply. (our Jack Russel likes to charge after cars, we'd like to train that behavior out!).

Would it be possible to build a small enough unit that was battery powered that could be warn as a cat collar? My dog won't leave my cats alone and this could be a way to make him keep his distance.

 

Necroposting, the act of trying to revive a long dead thread is strongly discouraged on AAC. I have locked this thread. Next time, start a new thread if you wish to discuss an issue. Next time start a new thread and link to the old thread with a URL.