Was wondering if someone could help me understand more what Power Factor means. I never payed much attention to it until recently when I realized some lights I have, have a lower PF. Everything I tested before had a PF of 1 or in the high .90s which I'm almost certain is a good thing. For measuring I use this cheaper device called Kill A Watt made by Intertek. When I searched on google I gained a little more understanding but I'm still confused. From what I read people were talking about how it's usually from lower quality drivers for LED lighting and it's bad for the electrical grid. I have always thought for many years Volts x Amps = Watts. I never realized until recently that reading watts compared to reading VA can vary by so much which is where the PF comes into play. I'm also confused now as to which is being billed to the electric company.
I have this decorative small hydroponic gardening system QYO20. It's nothing too special but looks kinda cool. It's rated at 36 watts but said the product could vary. I wanted to calculate about how much a month this would cost to run. My meter generally said 115.5 volts, .26 amps, 17.3 watts, 30.3 VA, 59.9 Hz, .57 PF. Please note that these numbers change constantly but not drastically. 115.5 Volts x .26 Amps ≈ 30.3 VA. I understand the .57 PF is the % difference from the 17.3 watts. Am I being billed roughly for the 30.3 VA, the 17.3 watts, or some other amount?
Also thought this was interesting. An old cheap Walmart Great Value Brand CFL bulb. It is labeled 19 watts, 120 volts, .32 amps. Strange to me as 120 volts x .32 amps would be 38.4 watts. My meter says 116.1 volts, .25 amps, 19.1 watts, 29.3 VA, .63 PF. How would I calculate how much something like this would cost to run? Do I use the 19 watts, the 29.3 VA, or something else?
Then I have these cheap Walmart Great Value LED bulbs that claim 120 volts, 15.5 watts, .144 Amps. My meter says 116.3 volts, .12 amps, 14.3 watts, 14.5 VA, .99 PF. This makes things so much easier to me as there is very little difference in the watts and VA. I never realized until now that some products have a bad PF rating. Was wondering if anyone could explain to me in simpler terms what causes this lower PF rating, how much power is actually being drawn, which numbers do I use to calculate what I am being billed for? I know calculating the cost with a very high PF is easy. Such as in this case 14.3 watts for about 24 cents a kilowatt hour would be 24 cents x .0143 KW = .3432 cents per hour to run, or 8.2368 cents per day, etc. If I use 14.5 instead of 14.3 there is not much difference.
I have this decorative small hydroponic gardening system QYO20. It's nothing too special but looks kinda cool. It's rated at 36 watts but said the product could vary. I wanted to calculate about how much a month this would cost to run. My meter generally said 115.5 volts, .26 amps, 17.3 watts, 30.3 VA, 59.9 Hz, .57 PF. Please note that these numbers change constantly but not drastically. 115.5 Volts x .26 Amps ≈ 30.3 VA. I understand the .57 PF is the % difference from the 17.3 watts. Am I being billed roughly for the 30.3 VA, the 17.3 watts, or some other amount?
Also thought this was interesting. An old cheap Walmart Great Value Brand CFL bulb. It is labeled 19 watts, 120 volts, .32 amps. Strange to me as 120 volts x .32 amps would be 38.4 watts. My meter says 116.1 volts, .25 amps, 19.1 watts, 29.3 VA, .63 PF. How would I calculate how much something like this would cost to run? Do I use the 19 watts, the 29.3 VA, or something else?
Then I have these cheap Walmart Great Value LED bulbs that claim 120 volts, 15.5 watts, .144 Amps. My meter says 116.3 volts, .12 amps, 14.3 watts, 14.5 VA, .99 PF. This makes things so much easier to me as there is very little difference in the watts and VA. I never realized until now that some products have a bad PF rating. Was wondering if anyone could explain to me in simpler terms what causes this lower PF rating, how much power is actually being drawn, which numbers do I use to calculate what I am being billed for? I know calculating the cost with a very high PF is easy. Such as in this case 14.3 watts for about 24 cents a kilowatt hour would be 24 cents x .0143 KW = .3432 cents per hour to run, or 8.2368 cents per day, etc. If I use 14.5 instead of 14.3 there is not much difference.
