The OPTO controls when the TRIAC turns on/off. So it is the OPTO that needs to be a Zero crossing type.Thanks, I appreciate the input & analysis. I will take your point one at a time and see if that helps any. Also, is that simulation a file that you can/would share with me? I downloaded that program before, but haven't really figured how to use it. Would the simulation allow me to play with the values?
1. Since you do not know the type of AC load (resistive or inductive), use Zero crossing optos.
I figured that. In the past, I may or may not have tried switching stereo equipment with regular relays - yeah, not a good idea.
Still, though...I thought that using a triac was going to be zero-crossing as a matter of course, thus that the optocoupler action wasn't relevant. I have since been told otherwise, but don't really understand the explanation given thus far.
Its ok to use 3030 if the trigger current is set to 30mA, but the LM3914 will degrade faster.2. The 3030 has a recommended input trigger current of 30mA. That is the MAX current limit for the LM3914. To avoid this, use the 3031, as it has a recommended trigger current of 15mA.
Hmm, that sounds reasonable. But I'm not going to buy any more optos. I already have these, and either the 3010s, or the 3030s were what this was designed for, although I don't know which. I currently gave the 3030s socketed in. With the stage active, the indicator LEDs are fairly bright. Is there a way to directly measure the current through that LED & the optocoupler? DMM in series?
Otherwise, it may not trigger reliably.
No, if set properly it won't change the timing, only the output current limit.3. The LM3914 programming resistors need to be adjusted to supply the required opto trigger currents. For the 3031, use R1=820, R2=470 (Sets IF=15mA, Vref=2v).
Can you elaborate on this for me? I see the section about current programming in the datasheet, can you kinda reframe that in...uh...layman's terms for me? Wouldn't changing that change the timing as well?
1000uf is good.4. Change 100uf to 470u to further reduce supply ripple voltage.
That cap is actually a 1000uF. Once again, I already had it. Plus, I suspect that it was the original value anyway. The reason I have them, is because my father used those same caps for almost any linear power supply that he built. The fact that it fit perfectly in the pads is another clue.
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