Um, those new capacitors C34, C50 are typically used in older PC motherboards 1,800uF 6.3V and I can't see them being the right values for this oven controller. Especially the voltage rating. So I would expect the caps to heat up and pop.

It is amazing how I disregard things that I see, feel, smell.

After I put the board back in the oven I did notice a slight smell and smoke, I thought maybe the oven had turned on so I disregarded it. Another thing I missed was the markings on the capacitor, the old one was 63v and new 6.3v but I thought they are both 63v. I even missed what you had written above, until I was about to write a reply and wrote the new caps physically look good, then I paused and thought I better actually go and look. Once I did look, then I found that C50 has swollen as shown in the picture below.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lnoLm-rDHRPyJ-M43wmFC2diQqYwa85s/view?usp=sharing

Then I remembered the smell and the smoke and then I checked the values after reading your comments about voltage rating.
Conclusion I missed all the clues but now I see that at least one of the new caps has been damaged. So this is likely the cause of black display. I will have to order new caps. Found the following option below.

Here are pictures of one of the electrolytic capacitors that were removed from the board for identification:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xz2dHpHvM6epgseRth1bbfzefvr8zed_/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W--II_cpjvRX8ZS7AQO-1R2XxpletKjp/view?usp=sharing

Numbers and letters on the cap are:
NRWA
100 µF 63v -55 +105°
0210
(M)

Found the following for sale but the eBay seller is on vacation (most of eBay sellers of such items seem to be on vacation due to Chinese New Year I think):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-PANA...LECTROLYTIC-CAPACITOR-105-C-USA-/313143419271

Found the following in Mouser:

For burnt out ceramic cap C29:​

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/594-K104K15X7RF53H5G/​

For 2 electrolytic caps C34 and C50:​

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UPS1J101MPD/​

Please let me know if the capacitors from Mouser are correct for both applications (C34/C50 and C29).

Thank you.

 

Also please confirm that the C29 cap will sit as shown in the following picture and that the one from Mouser can be substituted for it, thanks:
C29 2 leads go to each side of R20 and a jumper goes from one lead of C29 to D33A
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rawZObjUHn5G0N9kYmwuZh74IBhJnbcn/view?usp=sharing

 

Ah that makes much more sense. I read posts and skip details and make assumptions/mistakes all the time. As long as the caps did not vent.
I mark the tops with a red felt pen after double checking polarity and the value.

Pic is how I think the burned pcb traces were connected. I believe C30 is in parallel with R21, C29 with R20 also D33.

What I would do is replace all five electrolytics with premium 105°C parts. It gets hot cooking a turkey.
Because your time, the oven - all worth spending a few extra bucks, verses cheap crap on eBay and Ali vendors selling dime store chinese capacitors which are notorious for having a short life. Get real Nichicon, Panasonic, or Chemi-con parts when doing a re-cap repair.

C11 - ?uF ?V LS=7.5mm, 18x31.5mm (Dia. x Height)
C34 - 100uF 63V LS=5mm, 12.5x15mm Nichicon UPM1J101MHD6AA or Panasonic FR series EEU-FR1J101 smaller 10x12.5mm 6,000hrs.
C50 - 100uF 63V LS=5mm, 12.5x15mm "
C54 - ?uF ?V (near hot parts)
C6 - ?uF ?V (near hot parts)

I use premium 5,000hr Nichicon UPW 105°C parts.

C29, C30 are best the same value 100nF 100V or 200V or 250V ceramic or film (don't use 50V parts!)
I would replace both, C30 could fail just as C29 did, due to power line surges if my theory is right. The parts operate at around 50VDC and likely the original problem is they are only 50V parts.
Suggest getting two K104K20X7RK53H5G 100nF 200V X7R $0.60 ea. or 100V parts. TDK leaded ceramic caps FA series are too fragile, they break if you bent the leads a bit rough.

Can you confirm/provide the value and voltage and diameter or lead spacings for the five electrolytic caps on the board.
To make it easier for anyone else repairing a Whirlpool Oven Control Board WP8302967 AKA 8302967R, 4451856, 4451991, 4452890, 4452898, 4453664, 4437919, 1057546, AP3767567, AH973354, EA973354, PS973354.

Not sure if Mouser is still recovering/catching up from the Texas Freeze.

edit: Found 8302068 Whirlpool Oven Service Tech Manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EsYFPpueRooNKSFuG0Qrbmo8ePaHRocg/view
It has the fault codes, calibration etc.

 

And don’t EVER use the self-cleaning mode. It puts years on your oven.

 

As long as the caps did not vent.

Can you please elaborate what you mean? Please read this sentence in your reply, it is not very clear to me. Thank you.

Can you confirm/provide the value and voltage and diameter or lead spacings for the five electrolytic caps on the board.

C50 - 100 µF 63v -55 +105°C 10mm leads 5.13mm Nichicon UPM1J101MHD6AA Mouser 647-UPM1J101MHD6AA
C34 - 100 µF 63v -55 +105°C 10mm leads 5.13mm Nichicon UPM1J101MHD6AA Mouser 647-UPM1J101MHD6AA
C11 - 1000 µF 50v 105°C 16mm leads 8.20mm Panasonic EEV-FK1H102M Mouser 667-EEV-FK1H102M
C54 - 33 µF 50v 105°C 6.5mm leads 2.00mm~ Nichicon UWZ1H330MCL1GS Mouser 647-UWZ1H330MCL1
C6 - 2.2 µF 50v 105°C 5mm leads 2.00mm~ Panasonic EEE-HD1H2R2R Mouser 667-EEE-HD1H2R2R

C29 MLCC 100nF 50v (?) upgraded to 200V 100nF 3.63mm~ Vishay K104K20X7RK53H5G Mouser 594-K104K20X7RK53H5G
alternate for C29 KEMET C330C104J2H5TA7301 Mouser 80-C330C104J2H-TR
C30 MLCC 100nF 50v (?) upgraded to 200V 100nF 3.63mm~ Vishay VJ1206Y104KXCAT Mouser 77-VJ1206Y104KXCAT

Diameters are for the barrel of the capacitor and were measured with a caliper. C29 and C30 diameters are approximate since measured on the board. Leads spacing distances are approximate.
Can you double check the list above before I place the order? Thank you.

TDK leaded ceramic caps FA series are too fragile, they break if you bent the leads a bit rough.

Can you clarify what you mean by the above quote? Which capacitors are you referring to by TDK leaded ceramic caps FA series? Are you referring to these: Vishay K104K20X7RK53H5G Mouser 594-K104K20X7RK53H5G
I provided an alternative for C29 replacement. Is the above alternative for C29 a better option?
For C30 the replacement capacitor above should fit into the existing pad on the pcb. It does not have leads so no worries about any lead breaking off.

The C6, C34, C11 replacements from Mouser don't seem to have long leads in the pictures posted on Mouser. Are the pictures misleading and they do have long leads or do they have short leads and need to have their leads spacing match exactly to the holes in the pcb? If this is the case some other replacements with longer leads might be better options.

Not sure if Mouser is still recovering/catching up from the Texas Freeze.

I send them an email to inquire if their operation has been affected or not. Hopefully they will respond and let me know.

 

Mouser did not respond to my email. I assume they have issues.
I checked Digikey and it was much easier for me to find the caps than using Mouser.

I have made an order on DigiKey website for the following items. I upgraded everything to higher voltages, is this OK?

Please check the list below and let me know if there is any mistakes or omissions or if anything should be added before I place the order. Thank you.

C50 - 100 µF 63v -55 +105°C 10mm leads 5.13mm Nichicon UPW1J101MPD DigiKey 493-1936-ND
C34 - 100 µF 63v -55 +105°C 10mm leads 5.13mm Nichicon UPW1J101MPD DigiKey 493-1936-ND
C11 - 1000 µF 50v 105°C 16mm leads 8.20mm Nichicon UPM1J102MHD6 DigiKey 493-11126-ND
C54 - 33 µF 50v 105°C 6.5mm leads 2.00mm~ Nichicon UPV1H330MGD DigiKey 493-17186-ND
C6 - 2.2 µF 50v 105°C 5mm leads 2.00mm~ Nichicon USV1H2R2MFD DigiKey 493-17293-ND
C29 MLCC 100nF 50v (?) upgraded to 200V 100nF 3.63mm~ KEMET C330C104K2R5TA DigiKey 399-4387-ND
C30 MLCC 100nF 50v (?) upgraded to 200V 100nF 3.63mm~ Vishay VJ1206Y104KXCAT DigiKey 720-VJ1206Y104KX

 

I upgraded everything to the higher voltages, is this OK?

Yes, for caps its ok.

 

I upgraded everything to higher voltages, is this OK?

Yes, that's fine. HOWEVER, higher voltage ratings often require a larger size. I haven't checked your list for the details but you'll want to be sure the new ones will fit. Lead spacing, lead thickness, diameter and height can all cause problems. Often a mismatch is easy to overcome but occasionally you can get into a bind. My comments apply mostly to electrolytics. If your only upgrades are the ceramics, you may be fine.

 

HOWEVER, higher voltage ratings often require a larger size.

The 100µF capacitors that came of the board were 10mm but the higher voltage ones were 16mm so I changed them back in the DigiKey shopping cart to their rated voltage of 63v to make them fit. Same for all other Electrolytic caps. I updated the list here by editing it.
There was a mistake on the lead spacing of the 2.2µF and 33µF because I had measured them on the board where they are soldered but when I looked at them on the capacitor they were about what was stated on the DigiKey website, so I changed them to an approximate value of 2mm which is about what was stated on the site.

I think the purchasing list is now good but if someone can give it a look and give me the OK before I place the order that would be great. Thanks.

 

The 100µF capacitors that came of the board were 10mm but the higher voltage ones were 16mm so I changed them back in the DigiKey shopping cart to their rated voltage of 63v to make them fit. Same for all other Electrolytic caps. I updated the list here by editing it.
There was a mistake on the lead spacing of the 2.2µF and 33µF because I had measured them on the board where they are soldered but when I looked at them on the capacitor they were about what was stated on the DigiKey website, so I changed them to an approximate value of 2mm which is about what was stated on the site.

The worst fit issue I’ve had was a MOSFET in a TV. I upgraded it to a little higher current and voltage and didn’t realize that meant a different package with bigger leads. I had to drill bigger holes into the PCB. That wasn’t really so bad but a lot of anxiety beforehand.

 

The worst fit issue I’ve had was a MOSFET in a TV. I upgraded it to a little higher current and voltage and didn’t realize that meant a different package with bigger leads. I had to drill bigger holes into the PCB. That wasn’t really so bad but a lot of anxiety beforehand.

That is nice to know.

 

When electrolytic capacitors see excessive voltage or reverse voltage they get hot, make gas and explode. Old generation parts from long ago would pop out the rubber bung like a firecracker or gunshot, you could get hurt.
Modern caps have a vent on the top (knife cut aluminium) so they bulge out and crack open the top, the pressure release is less dramatic and dangerous. Your one cap has the bulged, rounded top it was close to kabang.

I don't see a need to increase the voltage rating of the electrolytic capacitors. But if you want, it's OK.
From 63V to 160V is a lot, you can end up with a height or size problem. The 50V parts are seeing about 24-30V so they have good headroom- just the MLCC's don't have enough.

C34, C50 - 100µF 63V LS=5mm, 12.5x15mm 105°C Nichicon UPM1J101MHD6 DigiKey UPM1J101MHD6-ND
or alternate 100µF 63V LS=5mm, 10x12.5mm 105°C Nichicon UPW1J101MPD DigiKey 493-1936-ND

C11 - 1,000µF 50V LS=7.5mm, 16x31.5mm 105°C Nichicon UPM1H102MHD Mouser has, DigiKey does not stock the skinny tall variant. The short fat 18x25mm part might fit UPM1H102MHD6.

C54 - 33µF 50V 105°C LS=2mm, 5x11mm 105°C Rubycon 50YXJ33M5X11 Digi-Key 1189-2323-ND
or tiny alternate LS=2.5mm, 6.3x11mm 105°C Nichicon UPV1H330MGD Digi-Key 493-17186-ND

C6 - 2.2µF 50V 105°C LS=2mm, 5x11mm 105°C Rubycon 50YXF2.2MEFC5X11 Digi-Key 1189-2923-ND
or tiny alternate LS=1.5mm, 4x7mm 105°C Nichicon USV1H2R2MFD Digi-Key 493-17293-ND

C29 MLCC 200V 100nF 3.63mm~ KEMET C330C104K2R5TA DigiKey 399-4387-ND
C30 MLCC 200V 100nF 3.63mm~ Vishay VJ1206Y104KXCAT DigiKey 720-VJ1206Y104KX

I mentioned the TDK FA MLCC series, they look OK but I find they break easily.
I think these parts are what I like, but go with whatever you like, we're pretty close and all will last for years.

I've seen these oven control boards bend down C6, C54 way way over, away from the nearby hot resistor and transistor.

 

I've seen these oven control boards bend down C6, C54 way way over, away from the nearby hot resistor and transistor.

I see that this type of bending on leads on C11 as shown in the picture below. In fact C11 does not seem to fit on the pcb otherwise. The bend it is in an S format. I will try to do this for C11, C6 and C54.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q16sbNAb0T0KOHOu_wNYy26xp-nxNkJS/view?usp=sharing

I went with your selection. The picture below is the DigiKey order selection.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AsNhyZ_0JL9D8Ab63jyjN6ucx3FBacAO/view?usp=sharing

I placed the order. I will update this post once I have the caps and have installed them.
Thank you.

 

This all looks good, fingers crossed

 

Yes fingers crossed I can install the new caps without any issues and that solves the problem with the oven.

I had one more question though, once the caps are here I intend to bend the lead of the C11, C6 and C54 is a slight S formation to keep them away from the resistors next to them. Is there any advise on how to do this bening without causing damage to the capacitors? Thank you.

 

I usually just use small needle nose pliers or tweezers.. Nothing fancy is needed.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001098374221.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.25b64c4dWR4lSM
I like the #13 ones for bending leads.

 

I have already placed the order for the caps from DigiKey and they have been shipped, but just received this email reply from Mouser about my earlier inquiry about their operation:
Thank you for contacting Mouser Electronics.

Due to the recent snowstorm in Texas, we are experiencing a 2-5 day delay shipping orders.

Please let us know if you have any questions.


Kind regards,

Customer Service Representative
Mouser Electronics, Inc.
(800) 346-6873
www.mouser.com

 

Ditto on needle-nose pliers. Bend in such a way that the force is not placed on the leads' connection at the capacitor. I guess that means the pliers go between the cap and the applied force, if you get my drift.

 

The order from DigiKey came in, see picture below:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1raHJ4Gjf9cCZfyHDZzurB1HGH2pLijBN/view?usp=sharing
Have a question about the small 100nF MLCC capacitor. It seems to be in a package. How is it removed from its package? Thank you.

 

The MLCC cap is inside a small black piece of reel-tape used for robots doing automated SMT assembly, that has clear tape as a cover on one side.

What you'd do is flip it over to see the clear (cover) tape side, and use a sharp object like exacto-knife to open up the clear tape and pry it away from the black reel, so you can get the part out.

It's terrifying because one flick and it's flying across the room. If you can peg/pinch down the black tape (with say tweezers) when peeling the clear tape out of the way, so the part can fall out and be clear of the packaging.
You have to be super careful because the slightest hiccup and the part diasappears onto the floor.