I am glad I asked about how to take this small cap out of its package. I was a bit hesitant to ask, perhaps thinking it is a bit of an overkill, but I now realize it is not a trivial matter at all. Thanks.

One thing I forgot to mention was DigiKey packaging was excellent, very secure and they had used really good material to cushion and keep things safe and waterproof. It was also the cheapest with USPS at $4.99.

 

That's a busy looking panel and circuit board.
In my experience, the chances of success are not high and it might be bite the bullet time.
If the oven is reasonably new, it might be easier to get a replacement display panel/circuit board to get it going and try to fix the blown board at leisure.
Sometimes, I have contemplated just making up my own controls using separate modules.
After all, it's just a timer/thermostat.
A lot of perfectly good stuff gets chucked out because the electronics part of it fails, often down to cheepo power supplies or cut-cost components.
Having said al that, I would be doing just the same as you.

 

A most interesting little story, I do hope it goes OK for you.
I am from the UK and I bought an AEG competence double oven of Ebay for £60 as it was not working and it had been scrapped as the parts to repair it were not available. There was a repair service for the PC Control board for £35.00 so I bought it and went and picked it up. On getting it home I stripped it and checked it over and the only possible thing that could have been anything to do with it was a single fine strand of copper from a multi-strand cable that was sticking into the oven insulation from one of the element connections. This was removed and the oven reassembled and it worked with no other work done. The retail prices for these ovens was around £800.00 so this one only being a couple of years old and looking like new was a bargain.
The other thing that I wanted this particular model for was that it had a superfast grill, and I mean "Superfast" 10 seconds and it is ready, bacon takes seconds to cook and you can't leave it if you have it on full power. The first time the OH cooked bacon in it she set it on fire, the classic reply was "I know you said it was fast but I didn't think it could be that ******** fast"
When entering the number for the oven on the AEG spares web and the control board it was stated as "Not Available"which it why it was scrapped in the first place.
After doing some research for this particular Power board I found it was available for other brand models so I ordered one as a spare Then another later on when I fitted the first spare that I bought.
Part in question link.
https://www.ransomspares.co.uk/parts/cookers-hobs/john-lewis/power-board-pcb-/243308.htm
What basically goes on them is the power relay to the oven element which are easy enough to obtain and change.
I don't know if you can get a replacement for yours but if the oven is worth it it would be an idea then you would have a good working part to compare and check values on.
Moral of story, look at other manufacturers if the part that you require is not available as lots of these internal parts are actually generic and used on more than one type of unit.
Also look at Shop brands for similar models.
Best of luck.

 

In my experience, the chances of success are not high and it might be bite the bullet time.

I was encouraged by the board sounds working after the C34 and C50 were replaced but C35 blew immediately because the wrong capacitors (6.3v caps instead of 63v caps) were used by mistake. We will know soon enough if this cap replacements job is going to make it function.

If the oven is reasonably new, it might be easier to get a replacement display panel/circuit board to get it going and try to fix the blown board at leisure.

An internet search showed the board is not easy to purchase. There were eBayers who offered to fix the board at a price. One I contacted and send a picture of this board to, wrote back that he can't fix this board.

Sometimes, I have contemplated just making up my own controls using separate modules.

Well if you do that and you can document it, makes for a nice post here. Generally if something is reasonably built to gunshot a repair is more work and a lot more expensive than pinpoint repair. This is in general with anything not just electronics, in my experience.

 

There was a repair service for the PC Control board for £35.00

As I mentioned, one eBayer I contacted that offered to repair these boards bulked and wrote back that he can't fix this board once he had seen the picture of it. I was just checking the options at the time, wasn't really going to use his services except as a last resort. So these repair services may or may not fix things and it is best to consult them with some pictures before you send them the board.

On getting it home I stripped it and checked it over and the only possible thing that could have been anything to do with it was a single fine strand of copper from a multi-strand cable that was sticking into the oven insulation from one of the element connections. This was removed and the oven reassembled and it worked with no other work done. The retail prices for these ovens was around £800.00 so this one only being a couple of years old and looking like new was a bargain.

Lucky that you found and fixed an issue that was easy and no cost. Seems like you got a bargain of a steal.

When entering the number for the oven on the AEG spares web and the control board it was stated as "Not Available"which it why it was scrapped in the first place.
After doing some research for this particular Power board I found it was available for other brand models so I ordered one as a spare Then another later on when I fitted the first spare that I bought.

So the board of your oven did go bad and you had to use another board from another oven that matched. Verify this if I am wrong about this conclusion please. How long did it take after you got the oven when the board went bad? From the experience I have gained from this oven that I am doing a re-cap job on, I would guess that your oven probably had an intermittent board just like this oven and the strand of the element getting caught into the insulation of the oven was not an issue at all and because of the intermittent nature of the oven's operation, it just came back after a while and then went dead again, making you think you had fixed something when you really had not. What do you think? Is this a likely scenario, or are you sure you fixed it the first time and then the board on it went bad? Let us know. Thanks.

What basically goes on them is the power relay to the oven element which are easy enough to obtain and change.

Relay(s) could be bad on this board that I am working on, but because of the nature of its intermittent problem (going black screen for months and then coming back on its own and working for days or weeks) I tend to think this is something else, the capacitors in this case. If a relay contacts are blackened, mechanical force or vibration may jolt it into operation, neither of which was likely applied to this board as it sits high on the oven in the wall and no one would likely touch it or jolt it in anyway. This intermittent way devices fail seems to be one way capacitors go bad (possibly) in particular electrolytic capacitors.

After doing some research for this particular Power board I found it was available for other brand models

How did you match your board to another board? Is there a number on the board itself that can be reference to find similar boards? Did you go by the picture of the board? Thanks.

 

A most interesting little story, I do hope it goes OK for you.
I am from the UK and I bought an AEG competence double oven of Ebay for £60 as it was not working and it had been scrapped as the parts to repair it were not available.
Moral of story, look at other manufacturers if the part that you require is not available as lots of these internal parts are actually generic and used on more than one type of unit.
Also look at Shop brands for similar models.

Latest in the news.

BERLIN - Companies that sell refrigerators, washers, hairdryers or TVs in the European Union will need to ensure those appliances can be repaired for up to 10 years,
to help reduce the vast mountain of electrical waste that piles up each year on the continent.

The "right to repair," as it is sometimes called, comes into force across the 27-nation bloc Monday. It is part of a broader effort to cut the environmental footprint of manufactured goods by making them more durable and energy efficient.

“This is a really big step in the right direction” said Daniel Affelt of the environmental group BUND-Berlin, which runs several "repair cafes" where people can bring in their broken appliances and get help fixing them up again.

Modern appliances are often glued or riveted together, he said. “If you need specialist tools or have to break open the device, then you can’t repair it.”

Lack of spare parts is another problem, campaigners say. Sometimes a single broken tooth on a tiny plastic sprocket can throw a proverbial wrench in the works.

“People want to repair their appliances,” Affelt said. “When you tell them that there are no spare parts for a device that’s only a couple of years old then they are obviously really frustrated by that.”

Under the new EU rules, manufacturers will have to ensure parts are available for up to a decade, though some will only be provided to professional repair companies to ensure they are installed correctly.

New devices will also have to come with repair manuals and be made in such a way that they can be dismantled using conventional tools when they really can't be fixed anymore, to improve recycling.

Each year, Europeans produce more than 16 kilograms (35 pounds) of electrical waste per person. About half of that junk is due to broken household appliances, and the EU recycles only about 40% of it, leaving behind huge amounts of potentially hazardous material.

German Environment Minister Svenja Schulze said that in a next step, manufacturers should have to state how long a product is expected to work for and repair it if it breaks down earlier. This would encourage companies to build more durable products, she said.

“In the repair cafes we see a lot of devices that broke shortly after the warranty expired,” said Affelt — a phenomenon that has prompted some environmentalists to accuse manufacturers of designing their devices with planned obsolescence.
Knowing an appliance will really last for a decade might prompt consumers to choose products that are more durable or can be easily fixed, he said

 

Whirlpool Corp. (Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Amana, Gladiator GarageWorks, Inglis, Estate, Brastemp, Bauknecht, Ignis, Indesit, Consul etc.) are constantly discontinuing parts, I think it's planned obsolescence.
These oven control boards are quite repairable. It's usually bad solder joints, bad capacitors or relays. The kind of thing where $20 saves you $400 for a new board or $2,000 if you have to buy a new appliance.

Very common problem with VFD displays blanking out is bad solder joints to the tube.
The filament pins are located at the opposite ends, I would check for any cracks on the solder joints and re-solder them.
For this board, I'm not sure how they make power to the filaments. Other boards have a dedicated transformer winding just for the say 4VAC at a few hundred mA.

Maybe post a pic of the PCB backside where the VFD display pins are, to see if that's the intermittent cutting out problem.

 

One of the frequent problems I have come across with ovens, is where the PCT relay is solder to the board, the trace foil feeding the relay contact usually open circuits and burns the foil.
I usually end up replacing the foil with copper braid-solder wick for a repair.
Max.

 

post a pic of the PCB backside where the VFD display pins

Here are pictures of VFD, the first picture is without flash, the second is with flash, the third is the other side of VFD.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qLdVqvjBKFtYu1y5taLabSzZ-W8KbQ14/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EALx9exCj5fzAv8vcehuf63iNSstrRNt/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iTkizoV9zdoaj21NNhgxEz8htt9pld2z/view?usp=sharing

One side of VFD, I think where the fluorescent bulb (?) is, has blackened out a bit. Would that cause issues, or is it pretty normal? Can the bulb (?) be replaced, or the whole display needs to be replaced?

 

One side of VFD, I think where the fluorescent bulb (?) is, has blackened out a bit. Would that cause issues, or is it pretty normal?

This is what it should look like.

 

The VFD black corner is perfectly normal, called a "getter". If it goes white, then the tube has air inside.
I would re-solder the three-pin groups, at each end, which are for the VFD filaments. The left side by the blackened area/T183 looks not so great soldering at the outside pin. Same for R162. Careful not to bang the display.

I see C6 connecting to the filaments, at the section with half-cooked parts like Q28. I'm not sure but that section looks discoloured as if it runs hot, on all board photos on the Internet. I'm not sure what the power transistor Q28 does.
So replacing C6 could fix something...

 

I would re-solder the three-pin groups, at each end, which are for the VFD filaments.

Are these the pins you mention in your post?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NREPogC1aHIACusKBm_SqmQoiu1eZ-85/view?usp=sharing

Same for R162. Careful not to bang the display.

I forgot to mark R162 on the following picture but it is the one pointed to by the yellow arrow below the white rectangle. I did retouched this joint as it was loose, the big resistor would wobble when touched. As the picture shows there is continuity between R162 and the other pins where the traces go.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xRPFoISlIBWWWZxp_Dvie4ZBYvFp0f-5/view?usp=sharing
I tried to resolder R162 a couple of times, I need to be careful as the trace has lifted out of the board and it is tricky to get it to stick to the board and eliminate the wobble. If I try to move the big resistor by hand I can break the solder/trace from board and make the resistor wobble again. When soldering I need to put a slight pull on the resistor to keep it against the board so that it and the trace are against the board to make the wobble disappear. I don't know how much better of a solder job I can do at R162.
As the picture shows I have a question about cleaning the board after using rosin flux. What can be used to clean the rosin flux to make the board nice and clean? I tried alcohol and some cotton swab but as can be seen it did not do a very good job. Thanks.

I see C6 connecting to the filaments, at the section with half-cooked parts like Q28.

If you use the photo that was taken with flash it shows some parts better than the photo that was taken without flash. As the photo below shows I don't see any connection between C6 and the VFD filaments, unless I am missing something. Please let me know if you see the same or if I am mistaken. Thanks.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BOrxjIThdXG9J-_l4zY6Uu-1WUiXLmg0/view?usp=sharing

I'm not sure but that section looks discoloured as if it runs hot, on all board photos on the Internet. I'm not sure what the power transistor Q28 does.

I think like an area heater, these big resistors heat up and discolor the board. As long as there is no shorts/opens or cooked parts appears to be normal to my untrained eyes unless someone thinks otherwise and chimes in, I will go by it being normal.

So replacing C6 could fix something...

Once I take C6 out I will check it for capacitance and report back.

 

Are these the pins you mention in your post?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NREPogC1aHIACusKBm_SqmQoiu1eZ-85/view?usp=sharing

I forgot to mark R162 on the following picture but it is the one pointed to by the yellow arrow below the white rectangle. I did retouched this joint as it was loose, the big resistor would wobble when touched. As the picture shows there is continuity between R162 and the other pins where the traces go.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xRPFoISlIBWWWZxp_Dvie4ZBYvFp0f-5/view?usp=sharing
I tried to resolder R162 a couple of times, I need to be careful as the trace has lifted out of the board and it is tricky to get it to stick to the board and eliminate the wobble. If I try to move the big resistor by hand I can break the solder/trace from board and make the resistor wobble again. When soldering I need to put a slight pull on the resistor to keep it against the board so that it and the trace are against the board to make the wobble disappear. I don't know how much better of a solder job I can do at R162.
As the picture shows I have a question about cleaning the board after using rosin flux. What can be used to clean the rosin flux to make the board nice and clean? I tried alcohol and some cotton swab but as can be seen it did not do a very good job. Thanks.

If you use the photo that was taken with flash it shows some parts better than the photo that was taken without flash. As the photo below shows I don't see any connection between C6 and the VFD filaments, unless I am missing something. Please let me know if you see the same or if I am mistaken. Thanks.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BOrxjIThdXG9J-_l4zY6Uu-1WUiXLmg0/view?usp=sharing

I think like an area heater, these big resistors heat up and discolor the board. As long as there is no shorts/opens or cooked parts appears to be normal to my untrained eyes unless someone thinks otherwise and chimes in, I will go by it being normal.

Once I take C6 out I will check it for capacitance and report back.

Sorry last night I was a bit tired and there were some mistakes on this post which I fixed now. 2 of the photos did not have the proper permission to be viewed and that was fixed, there were some other mistakes which were also fixed by editing.

One thing I wanted to add is that the following photo shows the lifted R162 trace on the board very well. It almost looks like it is open but shows continuity on the meter.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JVp1G_XRlZ-3BSo00LgqE3DtS9t9ZCZL/view?usp=sharing

 

The capacitors were installed on the board today. The oven is now operational but still has one issue as explained near the end of this post, so please let me know how to fix this last problem and then it should be good.

First C34 and C50, then C29 and C30 were installed. C30 pad had come off on one side so had to use a jumper on that side to connect it directly to R21 next to it. There was no need to use a jumper from one terminal of C29 to T77 as there was continuity there already. The new C29 fit well into the crater left by the previous blown capacitor.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UjMpfTdli_ENa12ctdSfgNe9BD1GPEC-/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wy7WrdMLZKW2JlUZTEIxVJ-wifUZQPdK/view?usp=sharing

The board was then put back into the oven to see if the oven operation is restored and if the black screen starts to work. The oven did not work and the black display remained black so this was not the final fix. working).

A bit of frustration set in at this point, so I checked the value of all the big resistors on the board. I think they are good but did not bother to check the measured value against the value indicated by the bands.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ODQoztH-GUzKajr50K8JxzOZ7cSvk0rC/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_yO0Y2_CGxXilRw1PTsr2fVA2XrcxFBe/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15soofCSMULvwslb2zMUQrh8myzMiaXpo/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ij0n44bPzhU6-Ktq_oiQpv6OUq_lLsFw/view?usp=sharing

Then the next 2 capacitors were installed on the board, the C54 and C6 which were next to the VFD. Also the suspect solder joints of the VDF and Q28 were retouched with soldering gun.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A3oWH95dfQq_0sfSFRQ6Chu9cxF48vHG/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gKUAAt8hSju6ZNAPaiNoDG7eWQYJeu4v/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t-c7MQ2nFrI9R6bSL2Q7PrB8ZNI7fsNH/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bJJVo4D_j57rodfErERfn7d3Pm6j8mQB/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NIwDLIogv8Cv-Qj4MTimXzxxdAWy5UqN/view?usp=sharing

This time the display came on and the oven became operational. Later when the values of C54 and C6 were checked C6 was way below its rated capacity as shown below:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F1nouvS7i3vtHKxUaqULt8Z65-UwVDcC/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KLVcYz6AsbXd-RhFyuM2Z9QXWbe6n6hO/view?usp=sharing
C6 was rated at 2.2 µF which is 2200 nF but it measured very low about 4 nF. So C6 was likely the cause of black display which then caused no oven operation.

Here are some pictures of the final repair:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FSeriexN9IP69mmuoBMds1ci_ZqLBJmQ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bAZy6sV95A66oVwCBlrCBzBNRZSKfXHe/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gKUAAt8hSju6ZNAPaiNoDG7eWQYJeu4v/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t-c7MQ2nFrI9R6bSL2Q7PrB8ZNI7fsNH/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bJJVo4D_j57rodfErERfn7d3Pm6j8mQB/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NIwDLIogv8Cv-Qj4MTimXzxxdAWy5UqN/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/16BJAxs_Sdzv0VCUGacThFmEwSVvulXjd/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A3oWH95dfQq_0sfSFRQ6Chu9cxF48vHG/view?usp=sharing

There is one other issue with this board and that is the LOWER OFF button does no turn off the lower oven or makes the noise other buttons make. I think this could be due to this button needing cleaning. Here is the front and back of the piece that holds the buttons. Is there a way to clean this button? How can this button be restored? Thank you.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f-D1DDEZs55z3yatFIOR0OJmQ2AOcDFD/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ot8on_w-5c5VRTpmhjwtAYn5RZ95XIPT/view?usp=sharing

 

There is one other issue with this board and that is the LOWER OFF button does no turn off the lower oven or makes the noise other buttons make. I think this could be due to this button needing cleaning. Here is the front and back of the piece that holds the buttons. Is there a way to clean this button? How can this button be restored? Thank you.

I never figured out how to repair touchpad switches and replaced all of mine with these:

 

I never figured out how to repair touchpad switches and replaced all of mine with these:

Can you elaborate HOW you did that?

 

Can you elaborate HOW you did that?

The hard part was the electrical, to map out which conductor on the PCB represented which touchpad switch. I bypassed the ribbon cable entirely. Does the switch connect one lead to ground? To some other voltage? Once that was sorted out, I drilled holes where I could to place the mechanical switches near their old counterparts, so it would be obvious which switch to hit for each function. Wire up the switches, good to go.

 

The pretty face the consumer sees is a plastic sheet that covers a metal frame underneath. The holes in the metal frame were 1/4" I think, for the threaded part of the button, but the hole in the plastic faceplate was just large enough to get the plastic head of the button thru. It was a little tricky getting things to line up nicely. A drilled hole isn't always exactly where you wanted it. So lots of measuring, pilot holes, etc.

 

The hard part was the electrical, to map out which conductor on the PCB represented which touchpad switch. I bypassed the ribbon cable entirely. Does the switch connect one lead to ground? To some other voltage? Once that was sorted out, I drilled holes where I could to place the mechanical switches near their old counterparts, so it would be obvious which switch to hit for each function. Wire up the switches, good to go.

That is a great solution but it is a lot of work. In this case only one button is non functional. The problem is the back of the panel that holds the buttons seems to be glued on (I think) if that panel could be separated without damaging anything then the back of the malfunctioning button could be accessed to check for any issues. Perhaps someone here knows how to do this. Please chime in with your knowhow. Thanks.
My own thoughts is, possibly heating the edges of the back of the panel may allow it to come off, or somehow cutting a little access hole to be able to gain access to the back of the LOWER OFF button. Then once the button is repaired gluing the access hole back on or plastic weld it.

 

That is a great solution but it is a lot of work. In this case only one button is non functional. The problem is the back of the panel that holds the buttons seems to be glued on (I think) if that panel could be separated without damaging anything then the back of the malfunctioning button could be accessed to check for any issues. Perhaps someone here knows how to do this. Please chime in with your knowhow. Thanks.
My own thoughts is, possibly heating the edges of the back of the panel may allow it to come off, or somehow cutting a little access hole to be able to gain access to the back of the LOWER OFF button. Then once the button is repaired gluing the access hole back on or plastic weld it.

I can't say I recall being able to get into the touchpad buttons. I would have cleaned or repaired them if I could have. Sorry, it's probably been over 10 years since I did it and I can't recall. Bought the switches first time at Radio Shack, if that tells you anything!