Greetings all, my first post here..and I hope it's in the correct category

I have a midi controller that has gone BSOD due to a little chip that has a pretty high failure rate for this device.
Fortunately there are known, relatively simple, fixes for this failure. They entail removing the offending chip
and simply soldering in a resistor and capacitor, works like a charm. However for the amateur, removing the
chip usually entails some damage to the board. I tried to do it with a heating gun and still tore off some contact material..

This is common enough that the repair tutorials also show some people using a silver trace pen to remedy
the situation, but not an actual demo of the process. So with that. I would like to ask where should I apply the trace?
Just over the patches that came off? Also when I look close up, I wonder if I tore out a pin along with the chip. The chip
was very small and I don't recall any stray pieces flying away with it. Don't know if that's fatal for the repair or what..?
I am new to soldering as well, and on my first attempt the solder seemed not to flow to the points I wanted.
This could just be lack of skill ( I hope ! ), but I suppose it also has something to do with the PCB damage ?

my attachment shows my board..and the link is a repair video from yt...



the red lines show where the resistor and capacitor should go

here is a successful repair, but still showing PCB damage
I copied it at time, but 1:57 shows it soldered in

thanks all in advance for any helpful input..

 

... first, get a small bottle of liquid solder flux at Frys or your local electronics supply. A drop or two of liquid flux on each solder point seems to help a lot ... it precipitates impurities or excludes O2 ... whatever. .. Next, it looks like a wire wrap stake or maybe a short piece of copper wire inserted into the torn out divot might be able to re-establish a solder point at that location, but you will have to verify that there is conductivity with the original trace on the reverse side of the board.

 

... Look for the liquid rosin variety of flux. ... Have had excellent results with that item.

 

... Look for the liquid rosin variety of flux. ... Have had excellent results with that item.

thanks , checking into these now.... and missing Radio Shack to find things locally anymore...
HD seems only to have the "water soluble" paste.. tsk

 

At least 7 years ago, researchers developed a "silver" trace liquid that deposited solderable, nanoparticle silver. That development makes "silver pen" ambiguous. It can refer to an older device that had very fine silver in a carrier. It is somewhat conductive, but not solderable. The other version has conductivity approaching copper and is solderable.

Which version do you have? The former is more expensive.

Second, can you determine whether there are traces on both sides of the pads you ripped off? If so, you will need a way to connect them. Wire (I prefer 24 awg) works well but is not mechanically as robust as a rivet. Those rivets (tin or copper) have become readily available. Special tools are not needed. They can be easily made at home. Here is a repair I made with them:

The two on the left were repaired. They are a little bigger than a standard through-hole connection, but they also hold the traces down. Here is a link to the rivets I use -- a few go a long way: http://www.circuitmedic.com/products/201-3130.html Digikey and other distributors now carry them.

 

Which version do you have? The former is more expensive.

the one used in the successful repair.. was called CircuitWriter.. but I am not sure which one it corresponds to as you describe

 

I forgot to add that you need a nice way to remove solder mask. A fiberglass touch up/scratch pen is the best way I have found:
https://www.amazon.com/SE-7616SB-Fi...ocphy=9015284&hvtargid=pla-434848662922&psc=1

They are used for auto finish touch up and are probably available locally at an auto repair store or maybe even a big box store.

Edit: If the silver pen smells like a paint, it is the older type. The newer type will have a more pungent smell, like weak formaldehyde. The latter type will require moderate heating (80 degrees C) to complete the reaction.