In addition, much like most spoken languages, and many written ones as well: using the same terms for descriptions as the others do will make communications much more efficient and accurate. THAT is why we use certain symbols and follow certain drawing styles.

 

In addition, much like most spoken languages, and many written ones as well: using the same terms for descriptions as the others do will make communications much more efficient and accurate. THAT is why we use certain symbols and follow certain drawing styles.

Some people have trouble with their native language, let alone a specialized one, as long as people know what I'm talking about I really don't care to be pedantic.

 

It's always a good idea to make it as easy as possible for people to help you.

> A clear title. The world's expert in your problem may be reading this forum but he won't even glance at a post titled "I need help!!!"

> A clear description of the problem. Don't make people ask 20 questions.

> Clear schematics, pcb drawings, etc. in a viewable format. If proprietary software is needed or the info is in a zip file, few people will bother to look at it.

> Non-smarky, prompt answers when a question is asked or a suggestion made.

> If you are asking questions, chances are people replying know more about the subject than you do. Don't rudely dismiss them and ask for an explanation if you don't understand something.

> If and when you solve the issue, explain the solution. This helps others who may read the post later.

 

Furthering my efforts to win friends and influence people.....

If you come across a post with many replies, it can be tedious to read through them all before commenting, but please don't assume that you are the only person who could possibly have the right answer and comment without at least skimming through the replies. There's no needvto repeat what's already be said ten times before and there may be additional information in those preceding comments that change the story.

 

It's always a good idea to make it as easy as possible for people to help you.

> A clear title. The world's expert in your problem may be reading this forum but he won't even glance at a post titled "I need help!!!"

> A clear description of the problem. Don't make people ask 20 questions.

> Clear schematics, pcb drawings, etc. in a viewable format. If proprietary software is needed or the info is in a zip file, few people will bother to look at it.

> Non-smarky, prompt answers when a question is asked or a suggestion made.

> If you are asking questions, chances are people replying know more about the subject than you do. Don't rudely dismiss them and ask for an explanation if you don't understand something.

> If and when you solve the issue, explain the solution. This helps others who may read the post later.

If the #23 post was aimed at me then i really don't know what i said to deserve it? my thread was because i was puzzled about something and needed it cleared up, people have explained and i understand so the problem is?

 

If the #23 post was aimed at me then i really don't know what i said to deserve i

as long as people know what I'm talking about I really don't care to be pedantic.

It's always a good idea to make it as easy as possible for people to help you.

Consider it general well-intentioned advice.

The clearer the ask, the better the answers. If people have to guess at what the ask is saying, the answer may not be great or people may just move on.

 

Consider it general well-intentioned advice.

The clearer the ask, the better the answers. If people have to guess at what the ask is saying, the answer may not be great or people may just move on.

The thread was concerning the power supply for an op amp, i don't know how to make that any clearer so you can understand, anyhow like i said people have given me an answer that i can understand and so consider this thread closed as far as i am concerned.

 

Certainly the drawing, as shown at the start of this thread, was clear, and, I assume, accurate!
My feeling is that it could have been easier to follow, however.
The reality is that not all computer drafting software is simple to use, AND, that not all IC device schematic representations have been optimized for the ease of interpretation.
When the tool does not make things simple or easy, not every aspect is optimum. We see that in this case.
Aside from that, I would not choose to force my preferences on others.

 

The schematic would be a bit cleaner if some/all of the IC2 opamps were flipped WRT the X-axis.

Disagree. Raised differently. Flip IC1.

Also, IC2.3 and 2.4 are non-inverting, so flipping them increases crossovers.

Here's my redraw.

I flipped all of the opamps in IC2 and also flipped IC3. Left IC1 in same orientation because it made sense. Moved LM3080 and used a proper symbol.

Moved the battery to the far left so that the virtual ground is the first thing you notice.

 

And here's the circuit laid out on stripboard.

 

CErtainly a very nice construction job !!

 

CErtainly a very nice construction job !!

Thank you sir!

 

CErtainly a very nice construction job !!

... unless the bottom side is.. something else.

 

here's the circuit laid out on stripboard

I use needle nose pliers or a lead former on leads/wires. Don't see it in the breadboard below, but the jumpers are straight:

I also like to align the resistor color codes so they all read the same direction.

 

... unless the bottom side is.. something else.

I use needle nose pliers or a lead former on leads/wires. Don't see it in the breadboard below, but the jumpers are straight:
View attachment 369663
I also like to align the resistor color codes so they all read the same direction.

I see you have it resting on paper, you don't care about static?.... That's ok, neither do I.

 

I see you have it resting on paper, you don't care about static?.... That's ok, neither do I.

I do care about static discharge. It was on the paper only for the picture. But none of the components were particularly static sensitive.

I'd pay attention to ESD. I'm careful when handling static sensitive devices and still managed to damage several 2N7000. The devices still worked but had high S/D leakage. It was a head scratcher debugging the circuit.

 

... unless the bottom side is.. something else.

I did mess up on the underside, The circuit didn't work first time i powered it up, i got mad and cut all the wires connecting the off board components and threw it in the garbage can, then i had second thoughts and took a close look at the soldering, there was a solder splash stopping the circuit working so then reattached all my off boards again and it worked, you can see where the pots were originaly fitted , i really need to learn patience lol

 

I use needle nose pliers or a lead former on leads/wires.

really clean job... i am not fan of bare wire jumpers so close to each other even when they are short and stretched tight, so i tend to place a drop of soldermask

I also like to align the resistor color codes so they all read the same direction.

exactly even though reading code in any direction has long become second nature.

 

I use needle nose pliers or a lead former on leads/wires. Don't see it in the breadboard below, but the jumpers are straight:
View attachment 369663
I also like to align the resistor color codes so they all read the same direction.

Yeah i have OCD so all my resistors face the same way and my vertically mounted ones always have the tolerance band facing the circuit board.

 

i have OCD

I'm not OCD, but have patience.

A member mentioned something about not wanting to sort through a bunch of resistors or diodes if they got mixed up. I straightened the leads of 1000 diodes from Electronics Goldmine and sorted them.