Is it a Gas dryer? Unusual if electric element and only 120v unless a very small one?
Also would be very unusual in N.A. to see a main residential panel that was only 120v!
Max.

 

Is it a Gas dryer? Unusual if electric element and only 120v unless a very small one?
Also would be very unusual in N.A. to see a main residential panel that was only 120v!
Max.

I agree with Max. I was watching This Old House show, they rebuild, remodel and show home improvements and fixes. They had a pro electrician and he talked and showed step by step how to setup breaker panels in the residential house, and how washer or drier needed 220VAC and he use double wide breaker unit for 220VAC instead of single breaker used for 120VAC.

 

I participate here to be helpful as much as I do to learn, so I don't wish to discourage you. I myself learned mostly by doing things like you are, a long time ago. I am afraid that you need to probably learn a few more things about Single phase AC power In homes based on your remarks before you can safely work with it. Power is Not the same as control Or audio or what is commonly called Electronics

 

I can't read the plate very well on the first as I don't read German, but it looks like it's a 5000RPM motor, which means it's definitely not a standard induction motor as those operate at 3000RPM max on mains current in Europe without a VFD. The Toshiba is definitely a 3 phase, so the VFD should work on it, provided you can power the VFD. The third is a capacitor run single phase induction motor, which can be controlled with a VFD, if it can handle single phase motors anyways. The last is a universal, which can be controlled with a variac, or just about any variable voltage power supply AC or DC, it looks like it has some additional wiring so a controller could regulate the speed of the motor more precisely, but I haven't seen that sort of setup before, so don't ask me how that's supposed to be set up. It would be easier to ID the first one if you had a picture of the rotor inside, if it has brushes, it's probably a universal.

The last 3 plates are fairly standard, if you can't read them yourself I suggest reading up on AC motors here: http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/alternating-current/#chpt-13

 

, but it looks like it's a 5000RPM motor, which means it's definitely not a standard induction motor as those operate at 3000RPM max on mains current in Europe without a VFD.

As per my post #4 I suspect it is a vector rated motor and shows the maximum rpm under VFD usage, 5000/6000rpm would be a typical rating, it appears to be connected as I would expect a typical 3ph delta motor.
Max.

 

So I received a response from Georgii Kobold and they sent me this wiring diagram and I'm trying to make sense of it. I asked for a manual but this is all they had, its also in German...

So from the picture of the motor wires (from original post), it seems I would combine all the wires coming off each of the leads and that is my U, V, and W?

 

Is it a Gas dryer? Unusual if electric element and only 120v unless a very small one?
Also would be very unusual in N.A. to see a main residential panel that was only 120v!
Max.

I agree with Max. I was watching This Old House show, they rebuild, remodel and show home improvements and fixes. They had a pro electrician and he talked and showed step by step how to setup breaker panels in the residential house, and how washer or drier needed 220VAC and he use double wide breaker unit for 220VAC instead of single breaker used for 120VAC.

So here is my washer and dryer, you can see the plug on the wall on the right, I tested it and it is 120... I don't know what to tell you!

 

I can't read the plate very well on the first as I don't read German, but it looks like it's a 5000RPM motor, which means it's definitely not a standard induction motor as those operate at 3000RPM max on mains current in Europe without a VFD. The Toshiba is definitely a 3 phase, so the VFD should work on it, provided you can power the VFD. The third is a capacitor run single phase induction motor, which can be controlled with a VFD, if it can handle single phase motors anyways. The last is a universal, which can be controlled with a variac, or just about any variable voltage power supply AC or DC, it looks like it has some additional wiring so a controller could regulate the speed of the motor more precisely, but I haven't seen that sort of setup before, so don't ask me how that's supposed to be set up. It would be easier to ID the first one if you had a picture of the rotor inside, if it has brushes, it's probably a universal.

The last 3 plates are fairly standard, if you can't read them yourself I suggest reading up on AC motors here: http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/alternating-current/#chpt-13

Thanks for the input! For the third, the capacitor run single phase motor, I am trying to make sense of the 5 wires coming out of the box? Ive tried to find some info about it but having a hard time. I would guess that two of the wires run to the capacitor and the others go.... somewhere. But with it being a single phase it should run off of 120 correct?

 

The appliances appear to be economy models?
I have to eat my words, Actually the Kobold motor appears to be a Universal also by the internals shown. Which is 1ph, so the VFD would not run it.
Max.

 

The appliances appear to be economy models?

Look like apartment models, were real popular in the 1980's.

 

The appliances appear to be economy models?
I have to eat my words, Actually the Kobold motor appears to be a Universal also by the internals shown. Which is 1ph, so the VFD would not run it.
Max.

I was wondering where the third winding was in the diagram... I guess I've never seen a universal motor that is that big. Is there any way to tell voltage of something like this? 120 or 240?

 

It appears to show 190V ?
Max.

 

It appears to show 190V ?
Max.

I was thinking that but I was thrown by the 190!

 

Do you live in the USA? Does your residence have a circuit breaker type or fuse type "load center" panelboard of it's own, or do you share a panel (and meter and utility bill) with others? Can/will you post a photo of it, with its front cover removed? (Exposing the internal connectio s and cimponents). This front panel can be safely removed without removing power from the panel. Good lighting, a screwdriver with appropriate blade, and caution should be all that you'll need to do the job. You'll probably find at least 1 circuit breaker that is in some respect twice the width of some others, and has 2 conductors attached to it. Your carefull use of a voltage meter set for AC voltage of a range 250V or more should indicate a voltage near 240 or possibly 210 volts. If your panel is of the fuse type, you'll also probably find at least

 

(continuation)
one fuse holding device holding 2 fuses, with a conductor (wire, cable, lead or whatever term you prefer) attached to a terminal at the load side of each of those 2 fuses, and similar voltage readings.

If you turn off that breaker, or pull that fuseholder, you can safely connect wires of similar size and insulation type to those existing wires for use with your motors, although locating the device or equipment connected to that "220" breaker and wiring may provide you with easier access to that power.

 

I'm sorry I've asked this several times, but with it being a universal motor, what do I do to wire it? What are the 9 wires? are the groups of wires supposed to be combined? My understanding is that I could wire the motor with a plug, plug that into a variac connected to 220, and then control the motor from there, does that sound close?

 

You should have two field windings and a armature fed via the brushes.
The dwg is not that clear, I would take resistance readings first and see if you can find out the different elements.
A Universal motor normally has the two fields and armature, all in series.
Also I am not sure what that device on the RH side of the commutator is?
If you have a Variac at least you can start off with low voltage.
Do those nine wires all have open ends?
Term B2 looks like it comes from the unknown device on the right.
Max.

 

You should have two field windings and a armature fed via the brushes.
The dwg is not that clear, I would take resistance readings first and see if you can find out the different elements.
A Universal motor normally has the two fields and armature, all in series.
Also I am not sure what that device on the RH side of the commutator is?
If you have a Variac at least you can start off with low voltage.
Do those nine wires all have open ends?
Term B2 looks like it comes from the unknown device on the right.
Max.

Yeah all the wires are open, I dont have a variac so I would have to buy one but if there is a cheaper option I would be up for that! For resistance readings all I do is check which wires are linked to each other correct?

 

I can follow the drawing decently but this is what is confusing me

 

That is the item I mention in the last post.
It almost looks like a start relay that is picked up by B2?
Are you saying all leads show open circuit?
You could try it on an automotive battery first.
It should turn enough revs to test.
Also the plate shows a DC symbol for power?

Max.