So this is my first post on the site and pretty much my first dive into electric motor control. I scored 4 motors off of craigslist for dirt cheap and now I'm trying to figure out what is what, and how to control them. I also don't know exactly how to read these nameplates because they are a bit untraditional, as far as I know. I was told they all came out of an X-ray machine and they came with a Toshiba VFS7S-2015 variable frequency drive.
Here is the VFD

Here is the first motor, it is a Georgii Kobold (close up of nameplate below). There is a reducer of about 3 or 4 to one and what looks like an encoder on the back.

There are 9 wires coming out of the box, three on each of the leads so I would guess these are each of the phases. Would I connect each of these to the U, V, and W connections on a VFD?

Nameplate


The Second motor has a bit more information on it. It is connected to a worm drive on a 60 tooth gear so it has some serious reduction. The three wires coming out the side are labeled U,V,W so that should be pretty strait forward to wire. My one question is do I just attach the ground wire coming off the motor housing to the ground on the VFD? Or somewhere else?


The third is pretty interesting. It is a Groschopp motor, but once again I'm not sure how to read this nameplate. There are 5 wires coming out of the side which is confusing me, two of them are a bit thicker than the other three, but how would I go about powering something like this? I will probably end up taking off all the controls and other extras but I cannot figure out what the two potentiometers would be used for? (the blue cylinders geared off the output shaft)

Nameplate


The last one I believe is a universal motor which I have no idea how to use or even where to start. There are so many wires I don't even know what to do with. What would something like this be used for? Any estimate on horsepower?

Nameplate


My main goal is to figure out how to wire these to the VFD, I know this is a huge post but any input would be greatly appreciated!

 

Start by reading the Manual, I assume there was only one motor ran off the VFD?
It appears you have some 1ph motors there which is no good for the VFD, It needs 3 phase motors.
Check the manual for the Toshiba VFD, if you don't have it it should be on the web site. You may be able to run off of 1 ph 240v to control a 3 phase motor if it is a dual 1ph/3ph phase supply type.
If you are successful you will need to plug in the parameters for the motor selected, unless you know the one it controlled out of the bunch.
Max.

 

Looks like you have two 3 phase motors, and two single phase capacitor run motors.

The vfd will have outputs UVW for the three phases, the other terminals will be control pins, best to read the settings in the manual, the motors can be wired in Star or Delta.

 

The last picture is a Universal motor so you could control that with a Triac controller.
The first Kobold motor appears to be vector rated, it shows 5krpm?
Max.

 

Kobold is interesting one. West Germany, meaning it was made before 1989-1990.

 

I have read the VFD manual and the toshiba motor seems pretty strait forward to wire, I just need to find 220 to power the VFD.

 

The last picture is a Universal motor so you could control that with a Triac controller.
The first Kobold motor appears to be vector rated, it shows 5krpm?
Max.

What exactly is a triac controller?

 

Also thanks everyone for the responses!

 

I have read the VFD manual and the toshiba motor seems pretty strait forward to wire, I just need to find 220 to power the VFD.

Are you in Europe?

 

What exactly is a triac controller?

Similar to the dimmer switch type circuits, just a little heavier, they are usually sold for power tools with this type of motor.
Max.

 

Are you in Europe?

No I am in the U.S. I just don't have access to 220 in my current house

 

Unfortunately looks as though the only one you can run is the last (Universal) one.
3000rpm is quite low rpm for a Universal
Max.

 

No I am in the U.S. I just don't have access to 220 in my current house

In US they usually setup 220 for washing machines or dryers. Check the breaker for washer/dryer, it should be a little different from the rest.

 

Well my friend, this site is cool, and agreat place for help, but a post like this will only give you some insights that require some knowledge to understand. You've not given us that much to work with, but your comment about "220" certainly tips your hand pertaining to comprehension of AC power systems in general. Seriously, go to the library and look at a bunch of books, and read a few closely enough to learn a bunch on the topic. I learned a lot myself by messing around with goodies like this, but reading good texts and taking good classes will never be replaced by posts on online forums. Additionally, non-conductive and non-flammable work surfaces are what you want, but may not like working on (concrete, Corian, etc). And lastly, I have an unbelievable tolerance for electrocution,,,, and still struggle with it (for 50 years or so) but most normal people have sense to really avoid it. Get yourself lit up by a freq drive and we might not hear from you again.

 

Well as far as general knowledge I just finished up school for mechanical engineering which included some circuits classes and and of course all your basic physics classes so I do have basis to build off of. But of course this was schooling and not hands on experience so i was basically looking for some direction. I have ordered a couple books which I'm waiting on so I'm sure that will help as well. I'll try my best to not shock myself!

 

In US they usually setup 220 for washing machines or dryers. Check the breaker for washer/dryer, it should be a little different from the rest.

This was my first thought and I checked my breaker and didn't see any for 220 but I have an electric stove which in my mind should need 220 so I'll have to take a look. Thanks!

 

You should see double breakers in a normal N.A. residential panel, these straddle the two 120v conductors. Stove, Dryer, A/C etc.
Max.

 

I wasnt joking about getting a clue. You have 240 or possibly 208 at your residential point of service and loadcenter/panelboard. It can do lots of stuff include overheat things and electrocute.

 

I wasnt joking about getting a clue. You have 240 or possibly 208 at your residential point of service and loadcenter/panelboard. It can do lots of stuff include overheat things and electrocute.

So you're telling me it's too dangerous and I should not try? I understand the dangers and I am still doing my research and learning as much as I can before I do anything. Thanks for the input

 

You should see double breakers in a normal N.A. residential panel, these straddle the two 120v conductors. Stove, Dryer, A/C etc.
Max.

Ok I'll take a look, I know my washer/ dryer isn't 220 and I don't have AC so I'm holding out for the stove. I've been out of town for the last week so I'm excited to get back at it!