If you have a Dremel you can probably grind the ends flush but it will be tricky as the plastic get thinner. Maybe even a flat file.

I can‘t be certain from the mechanical drawings I can find but it might be possible to use flush cutters, particularly the anvil type, to trim the flanges from the left and right of the connector and have them fit on center. But that‘s speculative—as I said, the drawings fail to call out the needed dimension to be sure.

 

I use and make DuPont style connections and connectors often. Sounds like you have something off-spec or just flat defective. I don't have a problem with them unless it's a rare defect and that's from a bad crimp that I made and not a "store bought" cable. If you are buying those from china there just may be a reason they were so inexpensive... Do the pins fit snugly into the sockets? If so then it's a problem with the crimping of the connector to the exposed wire. There is nothing you can do but cut it off and start a new crimp job in that case. Crimp pins are cheap but get a really good set of crimp pliers and learn to use them as it may take a few tries at first. A set of male and female pins and multiple widths of the black sockets they fit into is cheap and a good thing to have on the shelf. That and a few male and female header pieces.

All those I bought locally (coming from China), have no square section - they are just a plain round wire! Generally, not a tight result with weak female connectors.

Took me some time to realize where the problem was.

 

I can‘t be certain from the mechanical drawings I can find but it might be possible to use flush cutters, particularly the anvil type, to trim the flanges from the left and right of the connector and have them fit on center. But that‘s speculative—as I said, the drawings fail to call out the needed dimension to be sure.

I have ordered some, they should be here next friday and I will let you know then.

 

I can‘t be certain from the mechanical drawings I can find but it might be possible to use flush cutters, particularly the anvil type, to trim the flanges from the left and right of the connector and have them fit on center. But that‘s speculative—as I said, the drawings fail to call out the needed dimension to be sure.

Hi,

Oh yes that might work too.

I actually did this with a connector long time ago using the Dremel and one of those abrasive cut off wheels but i cant remember what kind of connector it was now. I think it was actually a DIP socket where i wanted to fit two end to end to make a longer socket.

Some of the female headers are nice for this but unfortunately you have to cut them apart with a Dremel and then soldering to the pins is not too nice, we would have to epoxy or something afterwards, or maybe use a small circuit board to mount the header and then have short traces to holes where we can push the end of the wire through and solder. I guess it depends how bad we need them and how good we need them to be.
Perhaps a 'joiner' PCB that just has (say) 4 short, straight traces where we solder the header pins to one side and the wires to the other side. We would end up with a header with a very narrow PCB sticking out the back with wires soldered to it also. The plane of the PCB would be in the same plane as the header so it probably would not take up too much room except on the back of the header maybe 3/8 inch sticking up. Would be really nice if we could then pot it.

 

I mentioned using a good quality crimper but failed to also say make sure it has the proper set of dies for DuPont crimps. It took a lot of bad crimps before I discovered the quality set of crimpers that I was using had the wrong dies for what I was crimping installed! They were close but not the exact size. Also make sure they are installed correctly into the crimper. Some are keyed to prevent installing them backwards but some are not. If not keyed make sure they correctly oriented. On the other hand (no pun intended) if you are left-handed you may want the un-keyed dies for a left-handed installation.

 

All those I bought locally (coming from China), have no square section - they are just a plain round wire! Generally, not a tight result with weak female connectors.

Took me some time to realize where the problem was.

You can use a couple of appropriately sized strip of styrene and using gel cyanocrylic glue to sandwich their wires together to make a connector.

Styrene strips can be purchased from Evergreen Scale Models.

 

I mentioned using a good quality crimper but failed to also say make sure it has the proper set of dies for DuPont crimps. It took a lot of bad crimps before I discovered the quality set of crimpers that I was using had the wrong dies for what I was crimping installed! They were close but not the exact size. Also make sure they are installed correctly into the crimper. Some are keyed to prevent installing them backwards but some are not. If not keyed make sure they correctly oriented. On the other hand (no pun intended) if you are left-handed you may want the un-keyed dies for a left-handed installation.

Matt Millman (Matt’s Tech Pages) is about as close to definitive as you can got on “DuPont” connectors and crimping tools. He’s got information on history as well, its a great resource.

 

I have several LCD displays all using the same leads. My biggest problem is not the female connectors but the male ends plugging into cheap Elegoo boards, especially the power pins. Then too I think I buy three at about two dollars each. When the sockets wear out I just replace the boards. My older proto boards have lasted forever but the cheap boards and jumpers are short lived. Same is true of the cheap jumpers.

Ron

 

Matt Millman (Matt’s Tech Pages) is about as close to definitive as you can got on “DuPont” connectors and crimping tools. He’s got information on history as well, its a great resource.

Hello,

Wow, i had long forgotten about "Berg" connectors which were important to me long time ago.
I had their catalog too with lots of stuff in it. It was small but filled with a lot.

 

I have ordered some, they should be here next friday and I will let you know then.

The part with the pins, which they call 'female', will not fit end to end and maintain the 2.54mm grid.

 

The part with the pins, which they call 'female', will not fit end to end and maintain the 2.54mm grid.

That’s not true in my experience. They will fit. You may have to ensure the plastic pin bodies are all oriented in the same direction… Perhaps you’re correct for certain “cheap” jumpers.

 

Perhaps I should have been clearer what I mean. If you have a PCB with eight holes 2.54mm apart, you cannot fit two four pin connectors into those holes.