so the cutouts I want to but have a on-off-on toggle switch, which I don't want to use, doesn't match the interior of the car (LOL)

basically how it works, push the toggle one way it opens the valve, push the switch the other way it closes the valve, and when left in the middle, there is no power draw.

what I want to do is use a single push button momentary switch that when pushed down it will open the valve, when let go it will not draw any power and then when pushed again momentarily, it will close the valve. I've been told to look into dpdt relays, but the way I see it, once the switch is released, the relay will release (not helping me at all). then I hear about latching relays, but the way I understand it is that once I release the button the relay stays latched until the button is pushed again. which doesn't help because then its sending power to the drive motors, and I don't want to burn out the motors.

I've tried looking into timer relays, but there seems to be like 20 different timers to choose from and I have no idea which one I need. I'm so lost lol
can anyone help??

 

You need an alternate action circuit, such as a flip-flop with a DPDT relay, to change the direction of the current at each push, and you need a one-shot, such as a 555 timer, to generate the current pulse.

Do you know how much current the motors take?

Are you up to building/soldering a small circuit on a perfboard?

Seems a lot simpler just to find a DPDT switch that matches your decor.

 

i have no idea what any of that is lol. ill have to start googleing it see what im in for, but yea i dont mind doin a little minor soldering or anything. im not sure as to the current it takes. like i said its coming from the battery to a normal toggle switch. http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/FAQ/Docs/TOGGLE SWITCH DIAGRAM 6%2 0POLE.pdf this is the wiring for the switch they sent me. if i need more info please let me know and ill do some hunting.

its super hard to match a switch lol

 

Here's an all solid-state approach to controlling the motors:
It uses a CMOS flip-flop, CD4013, to provide the alternate action signal.
It changes state every time the push-button is pressed.
R1-C1 provides protection from switch mechanical bounce to prevent the FF from changing states more than once per button push.

A Pololu 18V17 H-bridge motor driver is used to drive the cutout motors.
The DIR input controls the polarity of the power to the motors, as determined by the state of the flip-flop.
The PWM input turns the motor power on when the push-button is pressed.



If you prefer a cheaper approach, a DPDT relay can be substituted for the H-bridge driver with the flip-flop driving a transistor buffer to control the state of the relay.
With that, the PB switch would directly power the motor through the relay contacts, so the PB would need to carry the motor current, whatever that is.

 

so basically i would buy those items and put it together like the drawing on the bottom of the post?? and whats an r1-c1, thast the only thing i can find online

 

so basically i would buy those items and put it together like the drawing on the bottom of the post?? and whats an r1-c1, thast the only thing i can find online

Yes, you buy the parts and assemble them on a perfboard.

R1-C1 is just R1 and C1.
The time-constant (R1*C1) determines how long the FF ignores subsequent bounces from the switch.

The R's are resistors (1/4W or so) and C1 is a capacitor (ceramic type) while C2 is an electrolytic type.
Remember to buy a socket for the flip=flop (14-pin DIP).

Make sure and buy a few extra parts to allow for attrition.

 

Strip board (vero) makes it easy, half way down the page.
http://www.futurlec.com/ProtoBoards.shtml
Max.

 

The real question is: Are their limit switches on the cutout?

Asked another way, do you have to hold the switch, and for how long to fully open the cutout?

The switch could me (on)-OFF-(on) which means it's momentary on in two directions and off in the center or it could be on-OFF-on or not momentary. I would suspect the former, but I also might expect 10 sec (>) or something for the cutout to completely change positions.
It's likely then a DPDT Center off switch that has 6 terminals.

 

sounds y'all, I just remembered one of my friends actually has a degree in electrical engineering, so guess who's gonna be helping me with this little gem and by helping I mean prob doing all the work. but I feel this is a great starting spot and thank you for all your help and I'm sure ill be back to ask more questions on this topic.
and yea there limiters on the cutouts, so the switch would have to held until it is full open/closed with off in the middle

 

there limiters on the cutouts, so the switch would have to held until it is full open/closed with off in the middle

So if there are limiters then why do you need a middle off position?
Or don't the limiters remove the power to the motors?

 

So if there are limiters then why do you need a middle off position?
Or don't the limiters remove the power to the motors?

I think the limiters just keep the flap from just spinning, if you keep power to them the motors will just keep trying to open or close causing premature failure

 

The "limits" I would be talking about are switches seen at the end of the travel. Another way to limit, is a clutch, where the motor keeps spinng when it reaches the end. I would "think" the cutouts would act "variable" rather than on/off to be able to set the level of noise. Thus some time to open/close is also involved.

We need more info such as a link to the product manual/datasheet.

 

This might be a little late reaction, but i had the same problem, but i solved it with a L298N motor driver.

Made a code for my arduino and installed it. it's fairly easy.

this code makes de motor spin, you do have to change the time the motor spins each direction. for mine it was "1675" i have a 9rpm motor installed so a quater spin is 1675 (or so)

code explaned:

- Press the button, led starts flickering, motor spins a quarter rotation and stops, cutout is open, led stays on.
- When you press the button again, motor spins the other way around, stops after a quarter rotation, cutout is closed led go's off


when you use a L298N motor driver you can connect the 12v from your car battery to it. then you van connect a wire from the 5v output of the driver, this wire can be connected the the Vin on your arduino, thus way, your ardouno is powered from your car battery.
(just remember you have to connect the Wires, to the motor driver, straight to the battery, otherwise the arduino doesn't get power when the car is turned off and won't remember the cutout was open or closed, and might destroy the cutout)


CODE:

int button = 9; //positive button, negative to ground (chassis of the car)
int open = 10; //a pin on the L298N motor driver
int close = 11; //other pin on the L298N motor driver
int led = 13; //to a led you can install


boolean check = 0;
boolean OpenClose = 0;

void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
pinMode(close, OUTPUT);
pinMode(open, OUTPUT);
pinMode(led, OUTPUT);
pinMode(button, INPUT_PULLUP);
}

void loop() {
if (digitalRead(button) == 0) {
Serial.println("button is pressed");
check = 1;
}
{
if (check == 1) {
if (OpenClose == 1) {
Serial.print("closing");
digitalWrite(close, HIGH);
delay(1675);
Serial.println(" - closed");
digitalWrite(open, LOW);
OpenClose = 0;
digitalWrite(led, LOW);
}

else{
{

}
Serial.print("opening");
digitalWrite(open, HIGH);

digitalWrite(led, HIGH) ;
delay(205) ;
digitalWrite(led, LOW) ;
delay(204) ;
digitalWrite(led, HIGH) ;
delay(254) ;
digitalWrite(led, LOW) ;
delay(253) ;
digitalWrite(led, HIGH) ;
delay(253) ;
digitalWrite(led, LOW) ;
delay(253) ;
digitalWrite(led, HIGH) ;
delay(253) ;

Serial.println(" - open");
digitalWrite(open, LOW);
OpenClose = 1;
digitalWrite(led, HIGH);

}
check = 0;
delay(500) ;
Serial.println("stand by");
Serial.println();
}

}
}