Need help wiring a Momentary button to an MP3 Board and Speaker

Thread Starter

Vrokar

Joined Feb 16, 2018
7
Ive been trying to figure this our all day. First off, I dont know much about this at all, and am only trying to get this to work for a Boba Fett Costume ive built. The idea is simple, push the button, the sound plays and the button lights up. Ive got it all wired up, except for the button. I have no idea how to wire and solder the 5 prongs on the button. Ive attached pictures to better help clarify. I could really use some help with a wiring diagram so I can solder this baby up, seal the costume and get it all working. Thanks in advance.
 

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Dodgydave

Joined Jun 22, 2012
8,356
Wire the button terminals Com and No1 as your push switch ( one to battery + one to pcb +5V) , the bulb pins are the outer two (with solder blobs on them), just put them across the pcb +5V and Gnd supply.
 

dendad

Joined Feb 20, 2016
2,978
Try this..
LED_Switch.jpg
Oops, I have the labels wrong but the connections are ok. I use exactly that in a product.
20180217_085321.jpg
20180217_085339.jpg
 
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Thread Starter

Vrokar

Joined Feb 16, 2018
7
Wire the button terminals Com and No1 as your push switch ( one to battery + one to pcb +5V) , the bulb pins are the outer two (with solder blobs on them), just put them across the pcb +5V and Gnd supply.
Not sure I totally understand that... Ive attached another photo of how I have it wired...obviously ignore the button part.
 

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dendad

Joined Feb 20, 2016
2,978
Ok. The way I have the circuit is to switch the power on and off, not how you want it.
I have to go to work now so later....
 

dendad

Joined Feb 20, 2016
2,978
I just thought, if the switch is the same as mine (and it looks that way), that button is not a momentary one, but push on/push off.
You could wire it as as shown for a power switch but you will need another to trigger the sound. I'm not familiar with the sound board you are using. Does it need a momentary or locking switch to play?
 

Thread Starter

Vrokar

Joined Feb 16, 2018
7
I just thought, if the switch is the same as mine (and it looks that way), that button is not a momentary one, but push on/push off.
You could wire it as as shown for a power switch but you will need another to trigger the sound. I'm not familiar with the sound board you are using. Does it need a momentary or locking switch to play?
Its a momentary, but I know they have the lock on versions too. Its this Button here http://www.electronics123.com/shop/product/com-11966-metal-pushbutton-momentary-16mm-red-8898?search=momentary+button

As for the board, I can use either, Just found out today that it can actually host more than a single mp3 at a time too, which isnt listed in the specs, and could be fairly useful to me in the future if I wanted more gag sounds. The board however is this one http://www.electronics123.com/shop/product/fn605-m01-flash-memory-based-mini-embedded-mp3-sound-module-8219?search=mp3
 

dendad

Joined Feb 20, 2016
2,978
I have used WT588D boards.
There is the player module,
WT588D.png
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1PC-WT588D-16p-voice-module-Sound-module-audio-player-Recording-for-Arduino-M/182257487920?hash=item2a6f649030:g:S5oAAOSwH9lZeGux

the programmer,
WT588D_programmer.png
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-WT588D-USB-Sound-Module-Programmer-Downloader-Testing-Board-Tester/111842238148?epid=1131534489&hash=item1a0a511ec4:g:ZkYAAOSw8-tWVc-W

and one that incorporates both.
WT588D_USB.png
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5V-WT588D-U-16M-Voice-Sound-Module-Mini-USB-interface-Sound-Module-for-Arduino-A/292002572330?epid=2115759266&hash=item43fcb5a82a:g:whAAAOSwjDZYffea

In standby, the WT588D-16P consumes little current so a power switch is hardly required. And they can be powered on 2 x AA cells.
By themselves, the modules I use can have 4 x push button switches to trigger them, and I made a model train announcement player for a friend with just that, but the current project is a laser tag set that has the sound module mounted on an Arduino Pro Mini. It can have I think 300 sounds.
Sound.jpg

If you want multiple sounds, that may be an option.
My laser tag gun has only about 30 sounds at the moment.
My circuit is like fig 9.7 in this data sheet...
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjJ4N7f5qzZAhUBoJQKHQMGCpEQFggpMAE&url=https://www.elechouse.com/elechouse/images/product/MP3%20WT588D%20USB%20module/WT588D-U%20Voice%20Module.pdf&usg=AOvVaw34Pe1TeIaGjyWsGpoTkbGo but using the 16 pin module.

I run it all on a 18650 cell rescued from an old laptop battery pack, and an added charge controller/discharge protector board.
20171209_091126.jpg
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5pcs-TP4056-with-Battery-protection-LIPO-Charger-Module-Board-Mini-USB-Pro/132377050321?epid=13012463773&hash=item1ed2497cd1:g:4FUAAOSwUM5Z8pgQ
Charger.png
If you go with these, make sure you get the one with 6 connections. They not only control the charging, but protect against over discharge too.

What is the chip set on your sound player?
And can you post pics of the costume you have built? That sounds neat :)
 
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Thread Starter

Vrokar

Joined Feb 16, 2018
7
Sadly, all the parts being used are purchased already. I could send links for the whole thing if you would like. But it really is just down to getting the button to work the way I want to. As for the costume, completed pieces wont be shown until awesomecon which is March 30th - April 1st. Ill post a few of the in production parts though. The cylinders in the pictures are the grenades the sound is going into. Provided I can figure them out in time lol.
 

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dendad

Joined Feb 20, 2016
2,978
Wow! You have done a great job there.
For your power supply, have a go at using AA cells as they will run a lot longer than a 9V battery, and cost less too.
You may find 3 cells to give 4.5V will work, or use 4 cells with a 1N4007 diode in series to drop the 6V to about 5.3v.
There are AA cell holders that have a built in power switch and that would make it easier to use.
If you go with the 9V and regulator, don't forget to add some capacitors, maybe 10uF Tantalums, between the regulator input pin and 0V, output pin to 0V. Make sure they are the correct way around.
Do you still need help with the push button? Connect the C1 and NO1 pins.
I'm off to bed now as it is late here in Oz.
 

Thread Starter

Vrokar

Joined Feb 16, 2018
7
Wow! You have done a great job there.
For your power supply, have a go at using AA cells as they will run a lot longer than a 9V battery, and cost less too.
You may find 3 cells to give 4.5V will work, or use 4 cells with a 1N4007 diode in series to drop the 6V to about 5.3v.
There are AA cell holders that have a built in power switch and that would make it easier to use.
If you go with the 9V and regulator, don't forget to add some capacitors, maybe 10uF Tantalums, between the regulator input pin and 0V, output pin to 0V. Make sure they are the correct way around.
Do you still need help with the push button? Connect the C1 and NO1 pins.
I'm off to bed now as it is late here in Oz.
Yup...I havent figured out how to get it to work the way I want yet. As for the AA, I couldnt get any of the 3+ battery packs that would be needed to fit inside. So it was either a 9V with this voltage regulator http://www.electronics123.com/shop/product/com00107-voltage-regulator-l7805-5v-8260?search=5v, or a stack of cell batteries. Which...died too fast.

As for the button, yea, I need to get a map on that cause I dont really understand all this stuff yet. Ive been going off of already completed wiring maps to build what I have now. If I dont have that, I get a bit lost and say in my head "WTF do I do with the rest of this stuff"
 

dendad

Joined Feb 20, 2016
2,978
I found the data sheet as as the board will run from 3.3V to 5V, it may be better to go with a LiPo battery and the charge controller posted earlier.
I'm concerned that you want to use a 9V battery and a 5V regulator, the 9V battery may not last long enough so it will be wise to run it until the battery is flat to test to see if it will last for your use.

Here is diagram using the regulator. You will need to add a power switch and the capacitors on the regulator.

Soundboard.jpg
I hope that helps.
 
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LesJones

Joined Jan 8, 2017
2,316
Have you read the data sheet on the module to confirm that the trigger puse required is active low (as you have it connected.) and not active high ?

Les.
 

Thread Starter

Vrokar

Joined Feb 16, 2018
7
I found the data sheet as as the board will run from 3.3V to 5V, it may be better to go with a LiPo battery and the charge controller posted earlier.
I'm concerned that you want to use a 9V battery and a 5V regulator, the 9V battery may not last long enough so it will be wise to run it until the battery is flat to test to see if it will last for your use.

Here is diagram using the regulator. You will need to add a power switch and the capacitors on the regulator.

View attachment 146300
I hope that helps.
The only issue with the LiPo battery is that none of them fit inside the cylinder. Ive already maximized the size of those that I can use as well. I will however find a way to add a small switch, as that is totally more convenient than opening the thing and pulling out the batter every time. Any idea on how to get the light on the button to work though? So far, this only activates the sound.
 

dendad

Joined Feb 20, 2016
2,978
See how the LED pins are wired in post 3.
If it is like my switch that looks identical, it only includes an LED and no internal resistor hence the 1K series resistor. You could make it a lower value, like 220 ohms but the standby current will increase.
 

Thread Starter

Vrokar

Joined Feb 16, 2018
7
See how the LED pins are wired in post 3.
If it is like my switch that looks identical, it only includes an LED and no internal resistor hence the 1K series resistor. You could make it a lower value, like 220 ohms but the standby current will increase.
Actually...yea I think I do get it now. Guess Ill just go for an always on feature. Better than nothing! Thank you very much for the help. Greatly appreciated.
 
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