SO are you saying that you have 24vdc on the board where the previous relay was, but your relay is not picking up?
Or you are no longer getting the 24dc that you had before?
If the latter I would trace back to where this 24v is sourced from to turn on the relay.
Max.

 

This is a problem when you try to re-engineer a board and have no idea what you are doing. Your soldering is some of the worst that I have seen. There is probably a lock-out that is preventing the energizing of the relay - especially since it comes on when you shut the door (there is something seriously wrong). It is probably a safety thing.

Buy the proper relay and install it.

 

Max, The 24v is not being sent in the PCB to the relay's barrel holes. There's no current AT the pin's holes AND I scratched off the traces to see if there's current there, just in case my solder job didn't transfer the current to my wire lead, which should be completely unrelated to removing of the old relay).

SLK001, you have the wrong impression. I don't even HAVE the rely on there/connected. There's no longer 24v on the board being sent to the relay's pin holes. ...all I did was remove the old relay. The wires aren't hooked up yet to the relay as I was testing for 24VDC before hooking anything up. I fear you've seen people in the past install the wrong relays but this is not the case this time. The board was not re-engineered, it's exactly the way it was except that the old relay was removed. I should still be getting 24v even without the relay. I'd love to have a discussion with you about proper relays for these specs, but it's not the issue right this moment. My question isn't regarding my relay, my question is why did I lose 24vdc on the PCB simply by removing the old relay ...that gets power from it.

 

SLK001, you have the wrong impression. I don't even HAVE the rely on there/connected. There's no longer 24v on the board being sent to the relay's pin holes. ...all I did was remove the old relay. The wires aren't hooked up yet to the relay as I was testing for 24VDC before hooking anything up. I fear you've seen people in the past install the wrong relays but this is not the case this time. The board was not re-engineered, it's exactly the way it was except that the old relay was removed. I should still be getting 24v even without the relay. I'd love to have a discussion with you about proper relays for these specs, but it's not the issue right this moment. My question isn't regarding my relay, my question is why did I lose 24vdc on the PCB simply by removing the old relay ...that gets power from it.

Well, there is a part of the circuit that is powered by the incoming HV tab that you don't seemed to have connected. Also, your photography skills suck. How about posting pics of the ENTIRE board and the ENTIRETY of what you have done! I usually don't get involved in threads where the OP refuses to post proper pics, but I am here now, so I'll stay with it.

 

Thanks for sticking with me SLK001! I do have the entire board front and back posted on posting #1 and then the board with the relay removed on post #36, so I didn't want to be redundant with photos by reposting them. All I did was solder 2 wires into the 24VDC holes and never connected them and never connected the wires to anything; soldering them in shouldn't affect in any way whether 24v suddenly stopped being sent to those holes or not.

 

Also, according to the schematics, that high voltage terminal only has current AFTER the relay sends HV thru. I thought of that too, but the pink 240vac wire has current directly from the main HV terminal and when the relay is activated, it passes 240vac to the other terminal which has the tracing sending that current elswhere. The schematics show that 24vdc is not related to that high voltage terminal, FYI.

EDIT: I've added 2 new photos.

 

The only thing I can think of is this: It's possible my 2 wires connect to the 24vdc holes didn't make contact. So to rule that out, I scratched the protective green layer off the copper tracings to test for 24vdc (thereby eliminating my wire/solder job). Maybe it's possible that I didn't scratch off enough? ...but I did till I saw copper color, so I'm thinking that's not it.

 

Also, according to the schematics...

Schematics? You have SCHEMATICS? WHY DON'T WE?

 

Because they are simple and I fully understand them. The relay gets 24v from the control board through control board logic. There is no layout for the control board (logic). The 24vac to the board tests OK and the relay completes the circuit of 240vac, 30A for heat or to the inductive element. My current problem is that the control board isn't sending 24v to the holes where the 24vdc relay pins go. I can post them if you really want, but we'd be reviewing stuff other than the problem.

 

Where are you located?

 

Harrisburg, PA.

 

Since you are in the US, there is no 230V line - there is a 120V with a phase and 120V with the opposite phase. I have a feeling that the wire on both sides of the relay is 120V (opposite phases) and energyzes the circuit when the relay closes. Therefore, not having the connection made at the terminal prevents power from getting to the circuit.

 

Yes, the relay connect both sides of the 120v opposite phases. But the relay closes that circuit with a 24vdc current from the board logic and it's not getting that 24vdc to connect to two 120v's to make the 240 that goes to the inductive heating element.

I decided to just give in and buy the $125 used one on ebay. It'll come in a day or two and if I miraculously figure my bad one out, I can always sell either one to get my money back.

I once hooked up a 20 volt dc battery to the old relay while connected to the board and saw a tiny spark. I then switch polarity to the two contacts and heard the old relay click. So I'm wondering if that's what made the current problem.

 

I once hooked up a 20 volt dc battery to the old relay while connected to the board and saw a tiny spark. I then switch polarity to the two contacts and heard the old relay click. So I'm wondering if that's what made the current problem.

There is usually a diode across the coil of a relay. That is why you got a spark from the wrong polarity.

 

OK, I installed the refurbished control board I got on ebay (control board # 511867) and it works fine. The used control board I purchased has the the same failed relay replaced, just like mine. So it's obvious this design was flawed. that's why I wanted to put the same relay back on but with terminals instead of the pins that fail.

It's too bad a $5 relay replacement went bad and escalated to $125!

Thanks everyone for all the input!

 

The used control board I purchased has the the same failed relay replaced, just like mine. So it's obvious this design was flawed. that's why I wanted to put the same relay back on but with terminals instead of the pins that fail.

It is a common problem, I have replaced this type of relay on Oven and Toaster oven controllers, all the same symptom. with the beefed up printed circuit at the relay connection using dry-wick (de-soldering copper) method they last exceedingly longer.
I would be tempted to do this to a replacement.!!
Max.