So I bought an electric reel that only partially worked 5ge seller was upfront about what was going on. Make a long story short the ribbon that connects the control center to the motor was previously soldered but not good enough.
The ribbon is 5.5mm wide and has 10 pins.
I had to order some ribbon on Amazon and I cut off the old ripped one scraped the plastic off the contacts and exposed the very small wiring on both ends.
Once I get the ribbon I have to solder a piece and it won't be easy. I have a Hakko FM203 station with a regular and a micro gun and tips. I have 2 electric microscopes that I can use to see better.
So being that it is so small and fragile I need some advice.
How would you guys approach this there is not that much room for error because the leftover ribbon is cut pretty close to the end as you will see in the pics.
So the soldering will probably be done with the micro gun. What temp would you guys recommend so I don't mess up the contacts?
I have really thin soldering wire.
I know I cannot hold the tip on the contacts for long as it would probably melt them.
Once I succeed to solder how can I protect the area from breaking or bending is there some compound to use to forever encase it?
Notice the picture with the ribbon a nd my pinky finger.
Any advice would be really appreciated.


I cut the middle of it and tried to practice on it so when I used flux the whole thing melted then I used this silver bearing solder without any flux and it was better. I set up my microscope the cameral so I can see better, I ordered a chisel head micro tip for the Hakko micro gun. What solder would you guys use? Can I use a lower melting one? When you say a backing should I make something out of plastic and crazy glue it? I bought some of that green solder mask and a Sofern SF16 365 UV flashlight. I also got the FFC ribbon 5.5mm and I will practice on that for awhile with the magnifying setup. i also got some 99.9% Pure Copper Wire 0.1mm Soft Beading Wire Metal Plant Stem Ties. They are for jewelry but should be fine.
Let me know if you can think of something to add.

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That variety of RIBBON CABLE is quite challenging to solder. Is that the kind of ribbon cable that was originally part of your reel??
What kind of reel, and for what purpose is it used?? I am not familiar with the type that I see in the photos.
How much electronic soldering experience does the TS have?? That soldering will require the right solder and a specific shape of soldering tip, and a whole lot of skill.
So I suggest a bit of study, and practice on something else first.

 

So I bought an electric reel that only partially worked 5ge seller was upfront about what was going on. Make a long story short the ribbon that connects the control center to the motor was previously soldered but not good enough.
The ribbon is 5.5mm wide and has 10 pins.
I had to order some ribbon on Amazon and I cut off the old ripped one scraped the plastic off the contacts and exposed the very small wiring on both ends.
Once I get the ribbon I have to solder a piece and it won't be easy. I have a Hakko FM203 station with a regular and a micro gun and tips. I have 2 electric microscopes that I can use to see better.
So being that it is so small and fragile I need some advice.
How would you guys approach this there is not that much room for error because the leftover ribbon is cut pretty close to the end as you will see in the pics.
So the soldering will probably be done with the micro gun. What temp would you guys recommend so I don't mess up the contacts?
I have really thin soldering wire.
I know I cannot hold the tip on the contacts for long as it would probably melt them.
Once I succeed to solder how can I protect the area from breaking or bending is there some compound to use to forever encase it?
Notice the picture with the ribbon a nd my pinky finger.
Any advice would be really appreciated.

I cut the middle of it and tried to practice on it so when I used flux the whole thing melted then I used this silver bearing solder without any flux and it was better. I set up my microscope the cameral so I can see better, I ordered a chisel head micro tip for the Hakko micro gun. What solder would you guys use? Can I use a lower melting one? When you say a backing should I make something out of plastic and crazy glue it? I bought some of that green solder mask and a Sofern SF16 365 UV flashlight. I also got the FFC ribbon 5.5mm and I will practice on that for awhile with the magnifying setup. i also got some 99.9% Pure Copper Wire 0.1mm Soft Beading Wire Metal Plant Stem Ties. They are for jewelry but should be fine.
Let me know if you can think of something to add.

What the heck is an "electric reel"? a fishing reel gizmo? Dump it, buy a new one, what you seek is possible but very challenging, best to move on and save your energy for something more important.

 

That variety of RIBBON CABLE is quite challenging to solder. Is that the kind of ribbon cable that was originally part of your reel??
What kind of reel, and for what purpose is it used?? I am not familiar with the type that I see in the photos.
How much electronic soldering experience does the TS have?? That soldering will require the right solder and a specific shape of soldering tip, and a whole lot of skill.
So I suggest a bit of study, and practice on something else first.

This is an electric reel by Daiwa it's a 750megatwin. I do have a lot of experience soldering but not FFcs. I have a micro soldering handle for the Hakko FM203 station witha chisel head. I have an electronic magnifier with a camera. Too. I am practicing on some left over cable.
Like I said before when I used flux it got too hot. Without flux it doesn't melt everything around it.
What solder do you recommend. I have some silver bearing one very thin.
I am not touching it until I am sure.

 

What the heck is an "electric reel"? a fishing reel gizmo? Dump it, buy a new one, what you seek is possible but very challenging, best to move on and save your energy for something more important.

An electric reel is a reel to use when you fish at 300feet and deeper where you press a button and it reels the fish up so you don't loose your arm reeling manually.
I get your drift but this isn't just an energy consuming goal it's pretty much a hobby with me. I have 7 other electric reels and countless regular reels I really want to see if I can do this.
Again what solder would you guys choose for this? What about flux if any?
Help me figure this out win or loose.
Is there any other way to attach the wiring?
I already have the FFC cables to practice on
By the way this reel was 1k new and it's about 500 now used. I think it's worth rescuing.

 

@gica - OK, show me how the wire currently terminates, is it truly soldered at each end already? that fine ribbon wire is usually held in place with a clip of some kind, not solder. Id aim to replace it, not join the broken ends, show us the way its connected currently.

 

Ok so I decided to get adventurous and remover the encased cover from both pieces and as you will see in the pics the FFC is easily replaceable. I will use some silicone to put it back.
It's a good thing I did it this way because not only it would be impossible to solder that old cable together but there was 0% chance to do it the way I had it cut. Have no clue what I was thinking. Brain fart.
Broke the casing of the NAIS PANASONIC ACT212 Relay but I bought one on eBay for 10 bucks shipped. Small price to pay.
So with that a new Z6 inch FFC cable I hope the counter will function properly.
Left over FFC cables that I was trying to fix.

 

You must replace it cautiously, the "tape" cable can be attached with either side upwards, not sure how its marked, but getting it wrong might damage something...

 

You must replace it cautiously, the "tape" cable can be attached with either side upwards, not sure how its marked, but getting it wrong might damage something...

Yeah that's true I will look at the old ones and see how they were attached based on the bend of the cable.

 

I looked at a few pics, looks like the exposed conductors are only on one side of the cable, if so then its a no brainer, I've never worked with that stuff much though so its far from clear to me. Those reels must generate pretty serious torque...

 

I looked at a few pics, looks like the exposed conductors are only on one side of the cable, if so then its a no brainer, I've never worked with that stuff much though so its far from clear to me. Those reels must generate pretty serious torque...

They actually do. But this 750 is a mid line one. I have a 300 and they also have 1200 and I can't remember if higher. But those will pull your car hahaha.
The 750 should be able to pull anything off the bottom of the ocean at 500 to 1000 depths. Of course not marlin or swordfish. Just regular bottom fish like rock fish ling cods halibut and so on.
The great thing is if the motor fails you can still manually use it. Win win

 

They actually do. But this 750 is a mid line one. I have a 300 and they also have 1200 and I can't remember if higher. But those will pull your car hahaha.
The 750 should be able to pull anything off the bottom of the ocean at 500 to 1000 depths. Of course not marlin or swordfish. Just regular bottom fish like rock fish ling cods halibut and so on.
The great thing is if the motor fails you can still manually use it. Win win

Man, how strong are those fishing lines!?

 

Order a replacement cable if possible. Those cables are not designed for soldering. Their purpose is to plug into a receptacle that is soldered on the board or device. The reason why they melt so easily is because they are not made for high heat. At best you're going to make a huge mess. At worst you're going to fail. A lot of effort and expense, wasted time and energy as well as resources. Best to just find a replacement cable.

I've tossed out dozens of those cables. They have no purpose other than to plug into the correct receptacle. Soldering them or soldering ON them - well, the reason why they melted when you applied flux is because you created a thermal bridge between the iron and the cable. Without flux you'll be hard pressed to get solder to adhere to the cables. Darned if you do - darned if you don't. And I'm not talking about darning socks.

 

Agreed, these things are terminated with a clip to hold the ribbon, and you can see the clip on the PCB. They are rarely soldered.

But they are sometimes. I've resorted to using wires to completely bypass the ribbon cable. It's kludgy but it did work.

 

Agreed, these things are terminated with a clip to hold the ribbon, and you can see the clip on the PCB. They are rarely soldered.

But they are sometimes. I've resorted to using wires to completely bypass the ribbon cable. It's kludgy but it did work.

I HAVE seen the sorts glued to their contact points using conductive glue. Had a "Sleep Numbers" bed with a wired remote. The display went blank after a while. The problem was the ribbon. Using a heat gun on low heat I was able to influence the glue to reconnect and hold for a while. But even that didn't last very long.

 

Man, how strong are those fishing lines!?

It's a whole science behind it that includes the reel the rod the line the leader. The reel has brakes that are supposed to be adjusted at 1/3 of the leader breaking weight that is called adjusting drag. So when you get a fish that is too big you won't get broken because if it goes past the set drag the line just gets pulled. That is a way to tire the fish and protect the line. The rods also play a role because they bend some more than others.
So together once you master it a it you can land fish 3 times the breakage point. As long as everything is set up right. It's pretty cool.
And fishing offshore is probably the most satisfying thing to do especially if you own a boat. But charters are an option.

 

Order a replacement cable if possible. Those cables are not designed for soldering. Their purpose is to plug into a receptacle that is soldered on the board or device. The reason why they melt so easily is because they are not made for high heat. At best you're going to make a huge mess. At worst you're going to fail. A lot of effort and expense, wasted time and energy as well as resources. Best to just find a replacement cable.

I've tossed out dozens of those cables. They have no purpose other than to plug into the correct receptacle. Soldering them or soldering ON them - well, the reason why they melted when you applied flux is because you created a thermal bridge between the iron and the cable. Without flux you'll be hard pressed to get solder to adhere to the cables. Darned if you do - darned if you don't. And I'm not talking about darning socks.

You're right I have managed to get to the recepticle. It wasn't easy and I had no idea it could be done but it is better than the impossible soldering option. I have documented the process.

 

Indeed!! If there are actual connectors that is a much better choice. But since it will be in a salt water application probably you should add a bit of that anti-corrosion grease to keep it working. Bare copper tends to corrode if it even smells salt.