Urgent!

My MTX 3352 digital oscilloscope cmos battery got low and need replacement.

Original battery specs : varta brand Li-Manganese dioxide With PCB solder tags
1/2 AA 3V-950mah, non-rechargeable battery.

Found available on the market : NX brand Lithium-thionyl chloride ER14250 1/2 AA 3.6V 1.2Ah PP (Ref : PCL9005) without solder tags.

Question : Is it risky to use the 3.6V 1.2Ah battery instead of the 3V-950mah ?
If so, do I need to use a diode to drop the +0.7V excess and then what about the +250mah ?
Or is there any simpler and more efficient circuit to fit the 3.6V without risk for my oscilloscope.

Thanks

 

Original battery specs : varta brand Li-Manganese dioxide With PCB solder tags
1/2 AA 3V-950mah, non-rechargeable battery.

That is what you want to replace. You try to find the same battery with the solder tabs. Trying to solder tabs to any other battery becomes a nightmare, there is good reason a battery has tabs spot welded on at time of manufacture. Unless you can find a way to spot weld tabs on the similar battery forget soldering.

Just My Take....
Ron

 

That is what you want to replace. You try to find the same battery with the solder tabs. Trying to solder tabs to any other battery becomes a nightmare, there is good reason a battery has tabs spot welded on at time of manufacture. Unless you can find a way to spot weld tabs on the similar battery forget soldering.

Just My Take....
Ron

I can fix the new battery without soldering, but I need to confirm whether it is risky to use the 3.6V-1200mah cmos battery instead of the 3V-950mah ?

 

I can fix the new battery without soldering, but I need to confirm whether it is risky to use the 3.6V-1200mah cmos battery instead of the 3V-950mah ?

I don't think there would be any parts connected to that point that couldn't tolerate 3.6V, so I believe it's okay to use the 3.6V battery in place of the 3.0V.

 

You can buy the same battery from here https://store.batteryspecialists.com/cr12aapins.html or here https://www.ebay.com/p/VARTA-Cr1-2aa-3v-Lithium-Battery-W-Polarized-Solder-Tags/1618880848
No worries if you replace like with like.

 

While soldering to a battery is not that hard, the problem is that the heat from soldering is enough to damage the seals and so the battery either leaks or drys out and fails, ruined in either case. So don't solder to the battery. NOW you know WHY!!!

 

Thank you for your contribution.

Problem was solved by soldering a 3V Li-Manganese dioxide battery 1200A instead of the 3V-950mah with PCB solder tags, and gluing the battery to the mobo for better security.

Please note that the initial issue was my oscilloscope refused to turn on : it always went to sleep mode, when switched on. Replacing the cmos battery solved the issue. This might help others having same problem.