And one website I visited recommended getting a $210 battery for my car.One website I visited recommended getting a calibratable DMM.
I didn't do that, and the car starts just fine with a $96 battery.
And one website I visited recommended getting a $210 battery for my car.One website I visited recommended getting a calibratable DMM.
Could you say that again with less words?Calibratable DMMs are more expensive. If I get a non-calibratable DMM, how will I know that it is out of calibration? Obviously, the money that I spend to get a new non-calibratable DMM can be spent getting a calibratable DMM calibrated!
You can't believe everything you read on the WEB. It depends on your requirements. Since you're just starting out, and this is a hobby, it's highly unlikely that you'll be working on anything that requires a calibrated meter.One website I visited recommended getting a calibratable DMM.
That's already been covered within the past month.If I get a non-calibratable DMM, how will I know that it is out of calibration?
With labor costs what they are these days, you're better off using an inexpensive meter and having several to compare readings.Obviously, the money that I spend to get a new non-calibratable DMM can be spent getting a calibratable DMM calibrated!
And by now you could have had a couple free meters from Harbor Freight and been doing things instead of vacillating back and forth about what you want for your first meter.I did some research. Mastech meters are made in China. I don't want any of my money going to a country that violates human rights. OK, I'm off of my soapbox.
One website I visited recommended getting a calibratable DMM.
I don't want a Fluke because even the basic ones cost over $200. I want to keep the cost under $200 for my 1st DMM. I checked out the Craftsman DMMs. Ehhh. Radio Shack. Ehhh. I want some thing that's durable. The more research that I do, the more confused I get! I want the basic measurements-resistance, voltage, current & capacitance. Inductance. Not sure. At this point maybe I'll get either a Klein tools or an Extech. Both are made in the good ol' USA.
Sorry. It won't be less words but more words.Could you say that again with less words?
Demonstrably not true. I have a half dozen meters I've paid exactly zero for, and all are accurate to a higher level than I ever need, probably ±2% or better. Instrument error is rarely the biggest source of error in a well-designed experiment. Of course these meters have some limitations, but nothing I'm willing to spend big money to avoid.You know the old saying-you get what you pay for.
In most cases - the calibration service costs more than just buying another meter.One website I visited recommended getting a calibratable DMM.
Calibratable DMMs are more expensive. If I get a non-calibratable DMM, how will I know that it is out of calibration? Obviously, the money that I spend to get a new non-calibratable DMM can be spent getting a calibratable DMM calibrated!
and it's only a extra $70 for cal cert from fluke.Despite all that, you have my permission to buy a Fluke 289.
You keep saying that you want an accurate meter, but do you have even the faintest idea how accurate you want it to be?Sorry. It won't be less words but more words.
There are 2 kinds of meters. Ones that can't be calibrated & ones than can be calibrated. DMMs that can be calibrated are more expensive than those which can't be calibrated. If I get a DMM that can't be calibrated, how will I know that it is out of calibration? It has to be compared to a standard. I can spend money to get a DMM that can be calibrated. But then I'd have to spend more money to get it periodically re-calibrated! How do I know that a meter that can be calibrated needs to be calibrated? It has to be compared to a standard. HMMM! Interesting! A company charges more to sell a DMM that can be calibrated & also charges to have the DMM calibrated! Capitalists!
You guys are right. You got me thinking. Let's see. In the 1st year, I buy a meter that can be calibrated & at the end of the year, I pay to have it re-calibrated. And that's not cheap. I should get a DMM that can't be calibrated & save my money. Which brings me back to a previous question. How do I know that a meter is out of calibration? It has to be compared to a standard. What tests do I perform? I want one that is accurate. I don't want a cheap, inaccurate, disposable meter. You know the old saying-you get what you pay for.
But when will he know that it's out of calibration?You're looking for a justification to buy quality so I'll accommodate.
In your hobby endeavors you're extremely unlikely to ever get value from calibration so discard that notion. It's nearly impossible to go wrong with Fluke so choose that brand. Hobbyists have little use for logging, remote displays, special automotive and industrial features so something general purpose will do. Being able to test components for value or function is useful to a point in a multimeter but for that, a separate LCR meter is a better option. Being able to read temperature, duty cycle and frequency is all useful.
Despite all that, you have my permission to buy a Fluke 289.
Everyday Practical Electronics recently published a project for a 10.0000V standard.But when will he know that it's out of calibration?
I think he needs to purchase a primary voltage standard and either get a high quality current balance or some reference resistors. Then he can save money by not having to purchase a calibrated DMM and instead can use a cheaper meter (U.S. made, of course) and check it prior to every use against his standards to make sure that it is still accurate.
I wasn't the one who recommended Fluke, but the answer is that Fluke has a reputation for making quality meters. You pay for that. Just like you pay more for Apple or BMW. I have a Fluke, Simpson, and HP multimeter. I find them to be fairly equivalent, but not in the same league as my Radio Shack, Harbor Freight, and homemade meters (my homemade will only measure volts, because it's just a panel meter with dividers and a voltage reference added).Why do you keep touting Fluke meters? How does Fluke justify charging hundreds of dollars for a basic meter? Surely, there are meters as good as Fluke, but that cost less.
L=inductance, C=capacitance, R=resistance.What is an LCR meter?
What does Made in America really mean? Assembling things made in other countries in America??You guys are helping me narrow down my brand choice for a DMM. Made in America, of course!
This is true, it's probably the same thing a tech in the factory does in a quick quality control check. I wouldn't count on it giving good calibration on all settings and scales.I watched a YouTube video yesterday where the narrator re-calibrated a Harbor Freight DMM! A non-calibratable DMM. He adjusted a potentiometer.
You're referring to precision, which has nothing to do with accuracy. With modern digital electronics, precision is cheap. Accuracy, as you are learning, is more expensive.I don't need a DMM that will read to 4 or 5 decimal places. A handheld meter that will read to 2 or, at the most, 3 decimal places is fine with me. 2 or 3 decimal places is accurate enough for me.
Why would you assume that? If it were true, how long do you think Fluke would last?Surely, there are meters as good as Fluke, but that cost less.