The thing I’m worried about is that the super glue is all around the hole so there’s no extra slack to pull the cables out farther.Yes, the board only supplies power according to the silkscreen, and that makes sense. I expect the USB was to make use of ubiquitous power supplies. My only concern is there may be a resistor in there, and that probably being LED based, polarity will matter.
Need a better look inside.
I’m not sure on the type of glue but I managed to remove the glue from the inside but the glue from the hole seems to go in pretty deep. I’ve tried to pull out the cables from the inside but the glue from the hole is preventing me from pulling it out.OK, there is no resistor. Here's what I think is going on. There is slack back behind that glue, and you should be able to pull ou the glue plug, and carefully cut the wires free, resolder, then put it back in.
Is that silicone or hot glue?
Will I have to desolder or just solder it? Also am I right with where the wires go? I’m just afraid I’ll mess it up.There is no choice, is there? You have to sit there with an xacto knife/hand drill or something similar until you get enough of the glue out to get enough access to re-solder the two wires back on to the USB breakout. If there is not enough slack, you would need to splice into the two wires (with new insulation like shrink tubing) and still get enough of the glue out to run the wires out to the USB breakout.
Make sure you stay away from the circuit board (where the LEDs are). Make sure you know which terminals on the USB board to re-solder the red (+) and black (-) wires - looks like they are marked on the board.
After you get that done, make sure it still works. Then you have to re-glue and you are done...and a hero
I could only guess that red would be positive, as you have it. Ideally, you would test it, but there’s a 90+% chance that’s right.Will I have to desolder or just solder it? Also am I right with where the wires go? I’m just afraid I’ll mess it up.View attachment 171742
I don’t know what you mean by pulling the wires since there aren’t any on that micro USB port, and if you are referring to the led board that’s out the question since it’s glued on pretty well. I’m guessing those silverfish looking dots right below the + and - are solder? If so can I just heat up the solder that’s already on there and just stick the wires there? Oh btw I had to cut the wires so that I could splice and extend them.I could only guess that red would be positive, as you have it. Ideally, you would test it, but there’s a 90+% chance that’s right.
You should desolder the leads. What you can do is put the circuit board into a vise (or, if you don’t have one, gently into a pair of vise grips with padding by the edge) and heat the pad while gently pulling the wire with pliers. Don’t leave the heat on too long. If it fails on first try, let it cool.
I mean the remnants in the holes on the jack side PCB. From underneath, with long nose pliers.I don’t know what you mean by pulling the wires since there aren’t any on that micro USB port, and if you are referring to the led board that’s out the question since it’s glued on pretty well. I’m guessing those silverfish looking dots right below the + and - are solder? If so can I just heat up the solder that’s already on there and just stick the wires there? Oh btw I had to cut the wires so that I could splice and extend them.
Ok sounds good thx. So I should also solder the new wires to the backside as well? Or does it not matter which side I do as long as the wires match the + and -?I mean the remnants in the holes on the jack side PCB. From underneath, with long nose pliers.
Th wires should pass through the holes if at all possible. You should add a little new solder to the pads, and "tin" the leads you are putting on, that is, flow some solder on them. If you are unsure, check out a YouTube video on tinning wires, which is sure to exist.
Ok thx so much I’ll let you know how it goes.Solder to the top pads.