Mini USB port broke off. What needs to be done?

Thread Starter

Onzo1art

Joined Mar 2, 2019
16
So this is from a collectible statue that has led light but the mini USB port pretty much broke off. What exactly needs to be done to fix this?0161AED7-7762-4E5B-AD06-95A8633E45A5.jpeg 12524BF1-2B6E-4A2C-8429-02591BD1DF61.jpeg
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
9,170
Fortunately, the circuit board seems to be intact and it is only the wires to it that are broken.

It looks like a resistor inside that hole with a broken lead.

Can you open the bottom of the piece? Do you know how to solder?
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
9,170
Yes, the board only supplies power according to the silkscreen, and that makes sense. I expect the USB was to make use of ubiquitous power supplies. My only concern is there may be a resistor in there, and that probably being LED based, polarity will matter.

Need a better look inside.
 

Thread Starter

Onzo1art

Joined Mar 2, 2019
16
Yes, the board only supplies power according to the silkscreen, and that makes sense. I expect the USB was to make use of ubiquitous power supplies. My only concern is there may be a resistor in there, and that probably being LED based, polarity will matter.

Need a better look inside.
The thing I’m worried about is that the super glue is all around the hole so there’s no extra slack to pull the cables out farther.AFE5F5C5-9F1D-4582-B113-4EE97EA76B75.jpegB335DC82-A3C8-49C5-ACA8-51BDCD106170.jpeg
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
9,170
OK, there is no resistor. Here's what I think is going on. There is slack back behind that glue, and you should be able to pull ou the glue plug, and carefully cut the wires free, resolder, then put it back in.

Is that silicone or hot glue?
 

Thread Starter

Onzo1art

Joined Mar 2, 2019
16
90D3F865-5502-4E46-9F68-9852199D71E6.jpeg
OK, there is no resistor. Here's what I think is going on. There is slack back behind that glue, and you should be able to pull ou the glue plug, and carefully cut the wires free, resolder, then put it back in.

Is that silicone or hot glue?
I’m not sure on the type of glue but I managed to remove the glue from the inside but the glue from the hole seems to go in pretty deep. I’ve tried to pull out the cables from the inside but the glue from the hole is preventing me from pulling it out.
 

Raymond Genovese

Joined Mar 5, 2016
1,653
There is no choice, is there? You have to sit there with an xacto knife/hand drill or something similar until you get enough of the glue out to get enough access to re-solder the two wires back on to the USB breakout. If there is not enough slack, you would need to splice into the two wires (with new insulation like shrink tubing) and still get enough of the glue out to run the wires out to the USB breakout.

Make sure you stay away from the circuit board (where the LEDs are). Make sure you know which terminals on the USB board to re-solder the red (+) and black (-) wires - looks like they are marked on the board.

After you get that done, make sure it still works. Then you have to re-glue and you are done...and a hero :)
 

Thread Starter

Onzo1art

Joined Mar 2, 2019
16
There is no choice, is there? You have to sit there with an xacto knife/hand drill or something similar until you get enough of the glue out to get enough access to re-solder the two wires back on to the USB breakout. If there is not enough slack, you would need to splice into the two wires (with new insulation like shrink tubing) and still get enough of the glue out to run the wires out to the USB breakout.

Make sure you stay away from the circuit board (where the LEDs are). Make sure you know which terminals on the USB board to re-solder the red (+) and black (-) wires - looks like they are marked on the board.

After you get that done, make sure it still works. Then you have to re-glue and you are done...and a hero :)
Will I have to desolder or just solder it? Also am I right with where the wires go? I’m just afraid I’ll mess it up.5C66E7CD-C1A1-4683-87E9-B11BEB5D2318.png
 

pmd34

Joined Feb 22, 2014
527
Don't worry so much! There's not all that much you can do wrong, and there is a great feeling of triumph when you have beaten the system and repaired something rather than thrown it out.

Your best bet would actually, be to take out the main LED board, and solder on some new longer wires to replace the old ones, then solder in the old or a new connector (its not clear if it has broken away from the main housing, or just came unstuck).

You could patch in new wires part way along the existing ones, but it will be messy and fiddly.
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
9,170
Will I have to desolder or just solder it? Also am I right with where the wires go? I’m just afraid I’ll mess it up.View attachment 171742
I could only guess that red would be positive, as you have it. Ideally, you would test it, but there’s a 90+% chance that’s right.

You should desolder the leads. What you can do is put the circuit board into a vise (or, if you don’t have one, gently into a pair of vise grips with padding by the edge) and heat the pad while gently pulling the wire with pliers. Don’t leave the heat on too long. If it fails on first try, let it cool.
 

Thread Starter

Onzo1art

Joined Mar 2, 2019
16
I could only guess that red would be positive, as you have it. Ideally, you would test it, but there’s a 90+% chance that’s right.

You should desolder the leads. What you can do is put the circuit board into a vise (or, if you don’t have one, gently into a pair of vise grips with padding by the edge) and heat the pad while gently pulling the wire with pliers. Don’t leave the heat on too long. If it fails on first try, let it cool.
I don’t know what you mean by pulling the wires since there aren’t any on that micro USB port, and if you are referring to the led board that’s out the question since it’s glued on pretty well. I’m guessing those silverfish looking dots right below the + and - are solder? If so can I just heat up the solder that’s already on there and just stick the wires there? Oh btw I had to cut the wires so that I could splice and extend them.
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
9,170
I don’t know what you mean by pulling the wires since there aren’t any on that micro USB port, and if you are referring to the led board that’s out the question since it’s glued on pretty well. I’m guessing those silverfish looking dots right below the + and - are solder? If so can I just heat up the solder that’s already on there and just stick the wires there? Oh btw I had to cut the wires so that I could splice and extend them.
I mean the remnants in the holes on the jack side PCB. From underneath, with long nose pliers.

Th wires should pass through the holes if at all possible. You should add a little new solder to the pads, and "tin" the leads you are putting on, that is, flow some solder on them. If you are unsure, check out a YouTube video on tinning wires, which is sure to exist.
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
9,170
This one looks reasonable:

Also, expect some "melt back" of the insulation as you heat it to tin it. Don't leave the iron on the wire for too long, and make sure the tip is clean and shiny because if it is fouled it will make tinning the wire very hard and likely overheat things.

You might want to practice on some similar wire first, which will build skill and confidence. It's really easy with practice but can be frustrating if you don't.
 

Thread Starter

Onzo1art

Joined Mar 2, 2019
16
I mean the remnants in the holes on the jack side PCB. From underneath, with long nose pliers.

Th wires should pass through the holes if at all possible. You should add a little new solder to the pads, and "tin" the leads you are putting on, that is, flow some solder on them. If you are unsure, check out a YouTube video on tinning wires, which is sure to exist.
Ok sounds good thx. So I should also solder the new wires to the backside as well? Or does it not matter which side I do as long as the wires match the + and -?B477B7F4-A042-4354-AEF2-C9008BCAC1C5.jpeg
 
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