Hi all, I had for a long time a 13.5 vdc connected to a mini boost converter to give me an output of 24 vdc. These converters are very small around 5x3 cms. This failed after several years.
I got a new one on ebay. This burnt out immediately on inputting 13.5. I believe it may have been due to the factory setting of the output being less than 13.5. The advice is they can fail in these conditions.
My problem is you can't know what the factory setting is until you input a voltage and then it may be too late.
Can anybody suggest a solution to this problem that doesn't need for instance a completely variable voltage source from say 2v to 40v for safely using boost and buck converters?

 

Buy a quality Sealed-Module from DigiKey or Mouser, or any of the big, legitimate, Electronics-Supply-Houses.
They come with a very detailed Spec-Sheet,
and if You follow the rules,
You could have a Sealed, and Isolated, Module that will last ~40-years or more.

If You buy from Amazon / Ali-Express / Ebay, etc, etc,
You have no idea of what you're going to get, and no Spec-Sheet, and no guarantees.

Of course it will cost ~3 or ~4 times as much,
but You only have to buy it once.
.
.
.

 

The problem with those is they are too large to fit in my battery box which I use at my entry gate to remotely open my gate. There is also remote relays and solar panel charger in the box. I will probably get an adjustable voltage source up to 60v. So for booster will be able to put in lowest voltage and for step down highest voltage. This way there can be no mistake. too

Buy a quality Sealed-Module from DigiKey or Mouser, or any of the big, legitimate, Electronics-Supply-Houses.
They come with a very detailed Spec-Sheet,
and if You follow the rules,
You could have a Sealed, and Isolated, Module that will last ~40-years or more.

If You buy from Amazon / Ali-Express / Ebay, etc, etc,
You have no idea of what you're going to get, and no Spec-Sheet, and no guarantees.

Of course it will cost ~3 or ~4 times as much,
but You only have to buy it once.
.
.
.

Buy a quality Sealed-Module from DigiKey or Mouser, or any of the big, legitimate, Electronics-Supply-Houses.
They come with a very detailed Spec-Sheet,
and if You follow the rules,
You could have a Sealed, and Isolated, Module that will last ~40-years or more.

If You buy from Amazon / Ali-Express / Ebay, etc, etc,
You have no idea of what you're going to get, and no Spec-Sheet, and no guarantees.

Of course it will cost ~3 or ~4 times as much,
but You only have to buy it once.
.
.
.

 

Keep buying and trying till you get one that works. What else can you do with no other information. At least they will all fit in the box. I suppose you could reverse engineer a schematic diagram and that would certainly help us to help you.

 

some other people on this forum are suggesting I buy the large dc to dc converters assuming that the small converters are inferior quality. This is not it at all. The resellers of the mini converters do not get enough info from the Chinese manufacturers. They should at least know what the factory setting is of the output voltage.
I have found Chinese made products are of high quality if they are used properly.

 

Link to data about the part?

ak

 

They come with a very detailed Spec-Sheet,

Would you say that Murata is a reputable brand of DC-DC converter? If so look on their website and see if they have a "very detailed Spec-sheet", as you claim. From my trying to find one for the ones I bought they don't exist, even Digikey doesn't provide one. All you get is one showing the dimensions, no extra needed component use or anything else.