If the light is a steady flash, it means that the processor is receiving a command from the console.
Check the 105VDC from the bridge -ve to Q1 or whatever the designation of the SCR on the HS is.
Test input and output pin before and after a command is issued.

 

If the light is a steady flash, it means that the processor is receiving a command from the console.
Check the 105VDC from the bridge -ve to Q1 or whatever the designation of the SCR on the HS is.
Test input and output pin before and after a command is issued.

Thank you very much for the useful information. I’ve tested the input (anode), output (cathode) and the gate of the SCR. The output of the bridge rectifier is connected to the anode of the SCR (Q3 S8025L) +V(floating). The output (cathode) of the SCR is the HV bus (TP3). I have measured the voltage vs the TP4 (0V float), with speed selected to 0 Km/h (Stop), and with speed selected to 2 km/h.
With speed 0 Km/h V(A) = 215 V
With speed 2 Km/h V(A) = 212 V
With speed 0 Km/h V(K) = 15.8 V
With speed 2 Km/h V(K) = 317 V
With speed 0 Km/h V(G) = 15.8 V
With speed 2Km/h V(G) = 317 V

 

So it appears the SCR ramps up the motor power, the other suspects would be The mosfet or its gate driver IC, MC4227

 

JBG - I have used your excellent schematic to fix an MC2100ELS-18W board, thanks again for your hard work. In the process of fixing (details in another post) I came across some anomalies in your schematic. Attached is an edited schematic - please verify my changes and update and re-publish your master copy if needs be. There is always the possibility that my board is at a different rev level than yours.

Hi,
Sorry for the late reply but I have only just been notified there was some interest in the posting.
I make no excuse for the drawing mistakes, should have noticed the short circuit across the transformer and the fly-wheel diode not across the motor! Getting old I suspect. The opto/scr driver was taken from a stock library, should have modified it as you did.
I have re-draw the schematics and re-issued as a new posting.
Just curious what software did you use to enable you to modify the original .pdf file?
Glad my input to the forum helped, I have another one to add later.
Best regards.

 

Due to some drawing errors, which Mach4 kindly pointed out, I have made the corrections and, for completeness I have re-issued the complete set of information (attached). I did notice there are some small differences between the one I reverse engineered and the replacement I had to purchase.
Trust somebody finds this of interest.
Keep safe.

 

Hi,
I would like to contribute to this excellent site my reverse engineered information for the MC2100ELS-18W controller card. I was asked to "repair" a treadmill which had this card. The first problem was the shorted control "transistor" IRG4PC. This was locally available but on replacing there was a flash-over along the glue for the paper label which took out the micro-processor! A new card was purchased, different component lay-out but the same circuit except for an additional capacitor in series with the original connected between the 2 different system zero volts. No problems encountered with the new card although being an old school systems design engineer I do not like the control system. It appears there is no feedback when there is somebody using the treadmill, the speed varies too much for me. Yes the belt speed sensor appears to be working.
Anyway I trust somebody has a use for the information.
Any faults please advise and I will correct. There are some Zero ohm surface mount resistors which seem a little strange for me.

Update 06-09-2021
Please see #245 for corrected drawings.

 

Hi,

You are correct with the value of R60 it should be 10K. I also unsoldered R53 to check the actual value and it is 1Meg. The colour coding is not what I remember from many years ago, Br, Bl, Gr used to be 1Meg. I also rechecked the component list and corrected R43 and R47, (copy and paste problems).
If the system is shutting down due to over-current then something is wrong. Is anything getting hot to touch?
I mentioned there could be 2 ways for protection from over-current:-
1 Pin 6 of U10, if you check the data sheet, is current protection, Cs.
2 Actual current, measured by R63, is sent to the processor (pin 4) and also could control the PWM to the drive controller (sheet 7 pin 8), U10.
If you really want to change the feedback current, this is on your own head, then a potentiometer across R63, with the wiper connected to R60, would allow you the vary the feedback.
Good luck.

I have attached a new version of the components list and corrected drawing sheet 2.

Update 06-09-2021
Please see #245 for corrected drawings.

 

So it appears the SCR ramps up the motor power, the other suspects would be The mosfet or its gate driver IC, MC4227

Thanks for your suggestion.

I’ve tested the IGBT previously and seems working.

Now I’ve measured with the multimeter the electrical tension at the IGBT driver: U10 (IRS2127P), in the following order.

1st: console switched OFF

2nd: setting the speed to 0

3rd: setting the speed at 2 Km/h.

I noticed that tension at the 2nd Pin (Pulse Modulation IN) is always 0 Volt. I’ve measured it with the multimeter not with an Oscilloscope.

	Console OFF [ V ]	Console ON - STOP (0 km/h) [ V ]	Console ON - START (2 km/h) [ V ]
Vcc	11.3	15.2	17.2
PMin	0	0	0
Not Fault	2	5.6	5.6
COM	0	0	0
Vs	0	0	0
Cs	0	0	0
Hout	0	0	0
Vb	10.6	3.2	16.3

So it seems that the microprocessor (CY8C24223A) isn’t giving signal to the IGBT driver (U10, IRS2127P). Actually, the microprocessor seems working: when setting the speed to 2 km/h, the board’s LED is flashing. So I think that I have to understand what is preventing the microprocessor from giving the PWM to the IGBT driver U10 (IRS2127P). Any suggestion is welcome.

 

You could lift the 100ohm, or whatever your version is, resistor from the micro to the driver IC and see if the PWM voltage appears.

 

I have founded the fault. It was the IGBT gate driver's IRS2127. It had output zero, when the input was different from zero. After changing it the motor started to run beautifully.
I would like to thank you everyone who collaborates to this forum and especially JohnnyBeGood for the excellent schematic and MaxHeadRoom for his prompt replies.

 

This is the reverse-engineered copy of the MC2100, not sure if it will help.
Max.

Thank you so much !!

 

Thanks. I had the 8 flashes and no power. I replaced R52 on a nordictrack T18 and the treadmill is now working again!

Details of MC2100ELS-18W repair
To maintain this excellent knowledgebase of MC2100 information here's my contribution on fault-finding and repairing an MC2100ELS-18W pcb (230Vac version).
Firstly, thanks to JohnnyBeGood who posted an excellent reverse-engineered schematic of this version of the MC2100 here. There were some minor updates subsequent to his initial post. During my fault-finding and repair efforts I came across some discrepancies between my version of pcb and his original schematic - see my separate post.
To the details of my faulty board: the fault symptoms on this board were that the LED blinked 8 times then a pause then 8 blinks again soon after I applied a PWM signal. I had removed the PCB from the TM and powered it up on the bench using 230Vac. I also supplied the 20Hz PWM signal using a function generator into the PWM pin HD2/pin4.
(NOTE: if you use a function gen for the PWM input make sure it has sufficient drive capability to source about 20mA. Also ENSURE that you are not over-driving the PWM optocoupler LED - there is only a 22ohm resistor in series with the LED on the board. Limit the function gen output square wave to approx 3V peak, alternatively add a 680ohm resistor in series with your generator's output. Also make sure the DC offset is set so the square wave minimum does not go lower than 0V).
I used a 230Vac 20W bulb across the motor connections - there was no power going to the bulb, only the LED 8 blinks. After quite some fault-finding I found the following problems:

• the IGBT IRG4PC40K had gate shorted to emitter - I replaced with an STGW20NC60VD
• as a precaution I replaced the IGBT driver U10, an IRS2127
• I also replaced the SCR S8025L with a 2N6509G as well as its driver MOC3052

None of the above solved the problem, the LED still blinked 8 times repeatedly. Further debugging finally revealed another problem. Resistor R52 (1Mohm just below the right hand big cap in the photo) was open circuit and prevented the uC from detecting the HV bus voltage at the cathode of SCR Q3. View attachment 242509
This was the root cause of the 8 blinks - no information that I could find on the interweb pointed to this fault code or its cause. So this is the fault code for absence of HV bus voltage or faulty HV detector circuit. Replacing R52 as well as the IGBT fixed the pcb. The bulb brightness now varies as I adjust the PWM on the function gen.
Next - re-install and connect to motor and upper control pcb, and calibrate the speed pot. I will report any further findings here.
Hopefully this will be of use to others down the line.

 

Hello! I have the same treadmill and it recently stopped working. A friend came over and determined that the fuseible resistor was burnt and needed to be replaced. I'm having a hard time identifying the exact part I need and where to buy it from as most places claim they don't sell fusible resistors. I am in Toronto.

Please can you help identify this part and maybe a link to where I can buy it from? Circled in red (location is R46) on the attached images - one image is of the actual board and the other is of a stock picture I found online to find the colour bands on the resistor.

 

2Ω 2w from Digikey.

 

This seems to be a good replacement:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nte-electronics-inc/F2W2D0/11650059

Digikey P/N 2368-F2W2D0-ND

 

Digikey P/N 2368-F2W2D0-ND

Nothing came up on that No.
There is 45F2R0E-ND

 

2Ω 2w from Digikey.

Thank you!

Is it a fusible resistor? Or can a ceramic one be used?

 

It's Not fusible.

 

It's Not fusible.

Thank you so much! Now to just get the part and find someone to solder it for me. I'm guessing I need to disassemble the board to get to the back side to solder? I see some glue or something used to hold the board. If I remove it, how to I assemble it back? Caulking / silicone?

 

The soft sealant is easy to pick off, you just need to remove the 4 heat sink screws, watch for the spring washers!
When replacing it, there is a plastic stand-off you need to depress to allow the board to slide in.
If you wish to reseal it, silicone sealant will work.