Well, I am in CA, USA. Lights were flickering, one phase reads 160V and the other 80V or v/v and change instantly back to 120V on both phases. PG&E came and opened the seal on the CB box and found the Al neutral wire connection from the meter at the neutral bus bar sparked. Apparently, the contractor who installed the CB box decades ago over tightened the lug screw and loosened the connection to the bus bar and over the years the connection started to fail. Only way to correct this is to replace the entire CB box! according to my contractor and PG&E technician due to the box design(unknown brand 200A main w/20 CBs). Because of the over voltage on one phase, a microwave oven, a TV, a GFI, etc. were cooked. I opened one and found a fuse and a varistor were fried. I hope when I replace the box (with Cu, not Al neutral wire) and the parts it will come alive again.

 

I had a house in California with the same sort of problem. The 220V electric dryer in the garage would run but not get hot. Opening the breaker panel I was shocked to see aluminum wiring. The solution for the dryer was to tighten the screws on the connection to the dryer socket every few months until we sold the house.

 

Because of the over voltage on one phase, a microwave oven, a TV, a GFI, etc. were cooked. I opened one and found a fuse and a varistor were fried.

I had the "Loose Neutral Syndrome" in a house, too, and had to have the entire breaker box replaced. Luckily, though, none of my electronics got fried before the problem was fixed.

 

Opening the breaker panel I was shocked to see aluminum wiring.

Aluminum wiring was common in houses built in the 70's because it was cheaper than copper. My house was built in the 70's and has aluminum wire for the water heater.

The solution for the dryer was to tighten the screws on the connection to the dryer socket every few months until we sold the house.

You're supposed to use breakers that are compatible with aluminum and copper; and use something like OX-GARD on aluminum to copper wire connections.

 

Only way to correct this is to replace the entire CB box! according to my contractor and PG&E technician due to the box design(unknown brand 200A main w/20 CBs).

Not that big of deal or all the expensive to do either. A new 200 amp breaker panel plus breakers form your local home building supply center will set you back around $200 - $400 depending on what brand model and number of breakers you want.

Also if you are at least basically mechanically inclined changing out a main panel is a DIY project that can be done in a hour or two by yourself likely saving you a $1000 or more over hiring a contractor to do it.

 

I had something like that happen in my 1957 built CA home last November. 1/2 the house went out. I thought it was something odd, Power running half sided lol... I wasn't sure. Looking over the box and a glance it looked alright. So I called SMUD. They said no outage in my area. Going back out I flipped off the breakers that were on that side of house. First thing I did was labeled my breakers when I bought the house. Odd thing was that didn't help. So I went and got my meter. Testing that side and sure enough only had 30v the other side was all good with 123v. I thought that was odd. Looking at my meter it shows all was good. Took the panel off so I could see the wiring and tested the Buss. It was showing 30v, Tested the incoming legs on the 100amp breaker and both sides said 120v. This was a POS Zinsco and TBO if anyone has one, I would make a budget to have it replaced.

Anyway called SMUD they said Monday would be the soonest they could come out. Sadly it was on the side of my Fridges and Freezers and didn't feel like running the Generator for the weekend. So I found another 100amp breaker. This breaker for Main swaps out like the other breakers it isn't setup like most other boxes.... In no way shape or form do I ever say it is safe to make a Live Feed Swap but wasn't left with many options. Once I got this thing out, I double checked the buss bars and even though there was some minor pitting I did the swap. BTW this house now has a NEW SquareD box that I installed this April, Just before I had solar installed. 2 reasons they needed a new box. 1 The Zinsco is a POS and 100amp wasn't good enough service for solar.

Was going to have a Contractor do the change out, However the person they sent over to look at things tried to tell me that I already had a 200amp service. Trying to say that I add up the 2 in coming 120v lines at 100 amp and that it is a 200amp service.