I've got 1 more. During the day i will try to reach them, if it doesn't work i will get back at you. I'll probably call other shops in there and try to learn whats going on.

Let me figure out stuff first, if things dont work i will post you the potentiometer.

just buy cheap amp.i bought mini.and i dont care anymore.sure logi speakers a bit weak for amp.but i dont need use all power on all volume.speakers can work with any amp,so just chose right one with sub.and fix that pod,meh,waste time

 

Oto podsumowanie:

Problem: jeden z dwóch głośników (lub oba) głośno szeleści przy obracaniu pokrętłem głośności (czasami głośnik w ogóle nie wydaje żadnego dźwięku)

Rozwiązanie:
1- kup łącznik potencjometru „A50K”.
2- zdemontuj płytkę PCB z pokrętła
3- odetnij 6 długich pinów starego potencjometru i wyjmij go demontując 2 piny na dole.
4- zespawać 2 krótkie przewody na 2 dolnych podkładkach i przylutować je do 2 pinów na spodzie „A50K”
5- przyspawaj pozostałe 6 pinów "A50K" do pinów starego potencjometru, nie zapomnij przylutować również przewodu uziemiającego, jeśli cyna nie może się przyczepić, zarysuj trochę metalową powierzchnię.
6 - opiłuj 1mm mały otwór w plastikowej obudowie, w miejscu oznaczenia potencjometru
7 - ponownie zamontuj pokrętło

będzie działać jak nowy.
[/CYTAT]
Cześć, chcę też uratować moje głośniki. Dlaczego trzeba odciąć mały czarny kwadrat zaznaczony na zdjęciu nr. 1? Tak zrozumiałem, chociaż w opisie nic nie ma.

Mod: Use ONLY English Text, translated..

Here's the summary:

Problem: One of the two speakers (or both) makes a loud rustling sound when you turn the volume knob (sometimes the speaker makes no sound at all)

Solution:
1- buy potentiometer connector "A50K".
2- remove the PCB from the knob
3- cut off the 6 long pins of the old potentiometer and remove it by disassembling the 2 pins at the bottom.
4- weld 2 short wires on the 2 bottom pads and solder them to the 2 pins on the bottom of "A50K"
5- weld the remaining 6 pins of "A50K" to the pins of the old potentiometer, don't forget to solder the ground wire as well, if the tin can't stick, scratch the metal surface a little.
6 - file a 1mm small hole in the plastic housing, where the potentiometer is marked
7 - reinstall the knob

it will work like new.
[/QUOTE]
Hi, I also want to save my speakers. Why do you need to cut off the small black square marked in photo no. 1? That's what I understood, although there is nothing in the description.

 

you need to cut just the pins of the potentiometer following the RED lines in the photo! please don't touch the "small black square"!

 

-Hola amigos, tengo altavoces Z533 y el mismo problema que los compañeros, pero, desgraciadamente ya no dispongo del control ya que se rompió y quedó inservible, con esta situación, los altavoces no funcionan, tengo el cable del control cortado y hay nuevos hilos visibles, verde, negro, amarillo, rojo, naranja azul, negro, marrón y gris. No se para que sirva estos hilos. Quisiera saber si uniendo algunos cables entre si volverían a funcionar los altavoces aunque el control del volumen etc lo tuviera que manejar desde el ordenador, ¿Hay alguna solución?. gracias

 

Here a sum up:

Problem: one of the two speaker (or both) makes a loud rustle when rotate the volume knob (sometimes the speaker not have any sount at all)

Solution:
1- buy a "A50K" potentiometer link
2- disassembly the PCB from the KNOB
3- cut the 6 long pins of the old potentiometer and remove it dissalding the 2 pins on the bottom.
4- weld 2 short wires on the 2 bottom pads and solder it on the 2 pins on the bottom of the "A50K"
5- weld the other 6 pins of "A50K" on the pins of the old potentiometer, don't fortget to solde also the ground wire, if the tin can't attach scrach a little bit the metal sufcace.
6 - file 1mm the little hole on the plastic case that is the site of potentiometer mark
7 - reassemble the knob

it will work like a new one.

Thanks! Even though there were 2 disconnected paths, I made the connections and got it working as best I could.

 

Hello! Thank you very much for this info! My 7 years Z553 system just got this problem and will be applying the first method until I get my hands on one of those potentiometers.

 

I just had the same issue happen to me a couple of days ago! The rotary style potentiometer switch located at the bottom of the stack appears to have failed... I can't seem to find anything similar in design to this 2 gang potentiometer with the rotary switch. Definitely not a common style for audio volume control.

Bladan's solution seems like the best "out of the box" solution so I'll be ordering that piece from Aliexpress. Thanks again!

I've gotten the potentiometers separated for everyone else's reference.

 

I just had the same issue happen to me a couple of days ago! The rotary style potentiometer switch located at the bottom of the stack appears to have failed... I can't seem to find anything similar in design to this 2 gang potentiometer with the rotary switch. Definitely not a common style for audio volume control.

Bladan's solution seems like the best "out of the box" solution so I'll be ordering that piece from Aliexpress. Thanks again!

I've gotten the potentiometers separated for everyone else's reference.

Hello! How are you?

Do you have the reference codes? Where did you find it ? Ali, Ebay?

Thanks!!

 

Hello! How are you?

Do you have the reference codes? Where did you find it ? Ali, Ebay?

Thanks!!

Hi there! This is the link to what I ordered:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...st_main.5.16d91802QcP0PN&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Hope this helps you out, too.

 

Hi there! This is the link to what I ordered:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...st_main.5.16d91802QcP0PN&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Hope this helps you out, too.

Hi, does it still work with your solution? Could you also let me know whether I should order A10k or A50k?

Best regards and have a great day!

 

Hi, does it still work with your solution? Could you also let me know whether I should order A10k or A50k?

Best regards and have a great day!

Hi there. So unfortunately, I accidentally messed up the first potentiometer and by grinding too much of the plastic at the bottom to expose the switch contacts. I also apparently did something wrong with the 2nd one even though I was much more careful with it. Currently, I have the 2nd potentiometer installed and mounted but the switch part of it never ended up working for some reason so I'm basically back and square one. I ended up just bridge soldering the bottom pads of the PCB back together which keeps the white LED on all the time. I gave up on it for now as I got too tied up with other things in life/work, etc.

 

I soldered the on/off button which avoids future problems but thanks, your method is also working but for a super short of time

Sry for the question.
Can someone pin point where this is?