when a 1UF film cap is drawn this big(see pic below) is it intended to connect from LM386 #5-out to (grey) "F"(filter pot #3) which would leave 430ohm blue resister not connected to but traveling to the output. or as per the flow chart schematic op amp pin out #5 goes to filter or tone control pot #1(yellow)"F" which #2 leg goes to Volume pot #1leg & then volume pot #2 leg finally goes to 1UF film cap then to 430 blue resister then output jack? sometimes these caps seems to be drawn from edge of circle or square to edge or center to center (strip board) and it's seems to be up to me to deceiver what is meant by also checking circuit layout sheet. I am very new to electronics but willing to learn how to make my own guitar pedals. hoping someone can help answer a few questions. also what is the reason for drawing the 1UF orange cap so wide or large?

 

Welcome to AAC!

hoping someone can help answer a few questions.

What are your other questions?

also what is the reason for drawing the 1UF orange cap so wide or large?

I suspect they're trying to indicate relative size.

It would be helpful if you used proper grammar. Separate your thoughts in to paragraphs.

Since you're trying to learn, I'd steer clear of schematics drawn like the one you posted.

This is not a proper way to represent LM386:

Note: I started trying to correct it, but decided it wasn't worth the effort when I saw the wire to A6.
This is (from National Semiconductor datasheet):

 

Thank you for replying.

do you mean that a6 can only go straight to power? what did you not like about a6?

if this is a bad project, where does one find a good lm386 fuzz pedal design with both schematic and strip board design?

 

The LM386 is a Power Amplifier designed to drive an 8 ohms speaker to 0.5W. An ordinary low voltage opamp circuit should be used to replace it in this simple circuit.

 

do you mean that a6 can only go straight to power? what did you not like about a6?

Aside from the output of the opamp, we don't connect wires to the corners of symbols. It's confusing.

if this is a bad project, where does one find a good lm386 fuzz pedal design with both schematic and strip board design?

My comment was directed at the competence of the author, not the usefulness of the project.

The person who drew that schematic didn't know what they were doing. On the schematic, pot direction should have been indicated. Instead, it was specified in the wiring diagram.

A schematic without component designators is the sign of an amateur. Don't ask me why the schematic from the datasheet doesn't have them because I have no idea. Companies seem to have lost something after the 80's.

 

The LM386 is a Power Amplifier designed to drive an 8 ohms speaker to 0.5W. An ordinary low voltage opamp circuit should be used to replace it in this simple circuit.

define ordinary please?

The Acapulco gold by earthquaker devices uses a LM386 and sounds great.

 

The Acapulco Gold distortion maker uses two LM386 power amplifiers probably because they are already biased and have negative feedback but ordinary opamps would need biasing and negative feedback added.

I think Fuzz and Severe Distortion sound awful. I like an acoustic guitar and hifi music with absolutely no distortion.
Old people who are deaf to the high frequencies of fuzz and severe distortion think that hifi sounds the same.

 

The diameter of a 1 MFD capacitor depends on the voltage rating, and so the size of the needed space will vary depending on the voltage rating.
AND, for AGA in post #7, distortion is more like an organ stop setting. It is part of the music, and in a free world we do not all have to have the same musical preferences. To me and my tastes, Andre Kastalanitz and his strings offend my senses terribly. Less musical ability than a dead rat.

 

Make things easier on yourself,
use a Perf-Board with small Copper-Circles only.
The lengthwise Copper-Strips may work-out in certain instances,
but are a real pain most of the time.

Use Component-Leads or solid "Hook-up-Wire" to form connections.
.
.
.

 

Make things easier on yourself,
use a Perf-Board with small Copper-Circles only.
The lengthwise Copper-Strips may work-out in certain instances,
but are a real pain most of the time.

Use Component-Leads or solid "Hook-up-Wire" to form connections.
.
.
.

Cool. Great tips here. Ty for your answers.