Wendy these would make ideal coils as they are fairly compact. They are Ford COP (coil on plug units) I pick these up for free from the local scrap merchant. Even beter would be COP units that have 3 terminals, they have the switching transistor built in. Also your diagram for the 50s ign coil is still used in these small coils.

 

Wendy these would make ideal coils as they are fairly compact. They are Ford COP (coil on plug units) I pick these up for free from the local scrap merchant. Even beter would be COP units that have 3 terminals, they have the switching transistor built in. Also your diagram for the 50s ign coil is still used in these small coils.

And probably easier to find now days. The old round coils are getting hard to find around here for a good price.

 

@Wendy, looks like you're making good progress on the problems due to your stroke. Keep up the good work!

 

There are lots of choices in ignition coils on eBay for under $10 delivered. Cars, trucks, ATVs, motorcycles...

 

I am more lucid than I used to nut I would have to struggle to figure out how to use the cols you show. I suspect it is pretty simple I thought about post a few chapter on DIY trans formers A nearas I can tell the differenc between a tesla coil and a powerful ignition coil isn' that great.

 

Finding a conventional wire to fit that socket might also be a minor problem. A dowel with foil perhaps? Lord please make me well so I can use Dallas Maker Space. I miss 3D printers. Amen.

 

A nearas I can tell the differenc between a tesla coil and a powerful ignition coil isn' that great.

A Tesla coil operates at a high frequency (typically in the hundreds of kHz).

 

We moderators do projects on The forums to telp everyone This is on from Mr. chip that organizes most of the most comonly used parts Since I like to publish project I find it invaluable.
Project Parts Reference

Sorry link nwas broken ,now fixed

 

Its not hard to connect to the coils. Just solder wires to the pins, for the HV conector use a spade conector. Theres usualy a way around most perceived problems

 

@Blank_Stare

OK Last Transistor drawing...


This link will take you to apage that will show the smiconductor parts, specwhat the look lik,etc
Project Parts Reference

 

My daughter has drawn my attention to a commercially available solution that may suit my needs. She's a whiz at search engines, and found the magic charger, at, of all places, Cabelas, where it is sold to do exactly the job I need it for, but (and here's the kicker) for another brand of feeder. I am going tomorrow to see if it can be modified to fit my feeder, and if so, my search is ended.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/American-Hunter-BL-UBI-Varmint-Buster-for-R-and-RD-Kits/732668.uts?searchPath=/browse.cmd?categoryId=734095080&CQ_search=american+hunter+bl-ubi+varmint+buster+for+r+and+rd+kits

The specs look promising - size of the unit is smaller than a deck of cards, and it shocks at about 2,000 volt (similar to a dog collar.)

I'll post a follow up, as soon as I know one way or the other.

Regardless the outcome, I have appreciated all the assistance.

 

Hi Wendy, since your circuit is simple I decided to construct it. What I found was it wont work using a Ign coil or a transformer, what it does is goes into high freq ocillations. If you use a 12V automotive relay instead it pulses as you you have designed.

 

Damn sorry abot that.

 

If you use a 12V automotive relay instead it pulses as you you have designed.

Adding a buffer transistor to drive the transformer would likely also work.

 

Don't give up Wendy, im not good at design. But this is just a learning curve. But I might try crutschows circuit one day as I will have to purchase the Ic first.

 

Spinner body modification (almost) complete. Delivers enough shock to get my complete, and undivided attention - LOL!!! Shock arced about a 1/2" or so, when I was assembling everything. It was not pleasant. Not super painful - more like it numbed everything between the two points of contact, but I don't care to repeat the experience.

I say "almost" complete, because I am having trouble sourcing a decent switch locally. 10 years ago, I would have walked into Radio Shack, and been out the door in under 5 minutes - but they are closing up shops faster than I can find them.

I need a rubber-booted push button on-off switch, or a short toggle that is very stiff to operate, also rubber-booted. This will be sitting in the weather for the next couple of decades, so the rubber boot is a must-have. I'm gonna check the local RV and Marine shops this week.

If I can't source a decent switch locally, I'll be looking online, where I expect to pay more for the shipping, than the value of the switch...oh well.

 

Project completed. I ended up paying through the nose for a switch at ACE hardware, but it should last a while, with the rubber boot covering the toggle. I also used silicon caulk to seal the hole through the body of the spinner housing. I used galvanized wire for the positive lead, and I attached a ground wire to a metal cage built to keep critters out.

The wiring I added inside is kinda haphazard in appearance, but considering the tight spaces, and my big hands, and the fact that IT WORKS!, I am satisfied with my work.

I'll be deploying it to the field this afternoon, and bringing in my other one, for similar conversion. I suppose the second one will look a bit more professional, now that I have a better idea of what the finished project looks like.

Raccoons are gonna have to settle for what falls to the ground, twice a day, when the feeder activates. I guess they are gonna have to work a little harder for their meals.

I'm afraid that pictures won't show much, since the device is an epoxy block with 4 wires sticking out of it, but if anyone is interested in seeing the finished results, I'll be happy to post them.

@Wendy - Thank you for your assistance. I didn't end up building one from scratch, like I thought I was going to have to do, but I still appreciate the positive support you offered during the entire process.

@Everyone Else - Thanks for all the different perspectives on the charger concept. I am a strong believer of brainstorming with intelligent people, and it's clear to me that this is a great place to do that. I might not be the most regular visitor you have here over the course of time, but you can be sure that I will be back!

TTFN!

 

Project completed. I ended up paying through the nose for a switch at ACE hardware, but it should last a while, with the rubber boot covering the toggle. I also used silicon caulk to seal the hole through the body of the spinner housing. I used galvanized wire for the positive lead, and I attached a ground wire to a metal cage built to keep critters out.

The wiring I added inside is kinda haphazard in appearance, but considering the tight spaces, and my big hands, and the fact that IT WORKS!, I am satisfied with my work.

I'll be deploying it to the field this afternoon, and bringing in my other one, for similar conversion. I suppose the second one will look a bit more professional, now that I have a better idea of what the finished project looks like.

Raccoons are gonna have to settle for what falls to the ground, twice a day, when the feeder activates. I guess they are gonna have to work a little harder for their meals.

I'm afraid that pictures won't show much, since the device is an epoxy block with 4 wires sticking out of it, but if anyone is interested in seeing the finished results, I'll be happy to post them.

@Wendy - Thank you for your assistance. I didn't end up building one from scratch, like I thought I was going to have to do, but I still appreciate the positive support you offered during the entire process.

@Everyone Else - Thanks for all the different perspectives on the charger concept. I am a strong believer of brainstorming with intelligent people, and it's clear to me that this is a great place to do that. I might not be the most regular visitor you have here over the course of time, but you can be sure that I will be back!

TTFN!

I am sorry I let you down as I am working through a rough patch at the moment.

 

The fence controller is designed such that it outputs pulsated voltage. The on time of the pulse is short and off time is long. Only if some thing stucks in the fence and also have contact with ground then it will get severe shock and may die.

If the living object doesn't stuck in the fence then they will not die.

I can design a fence controller using micocontroller.

 

I am sorry I let you down as I am working through a rough patch at the moment.

You did no such thing. If things had continued to progress as they were, I would no doubt have used your design to build one myself. It just so happened that my daughter found a ready-made solution that saved me a great deal of time and effort. Had she not done so, I think I would be waiting for parts in the mail at this point.

You were a positive force throughout my odyssey - period.

Now, get healthy - being sick sucks, and you deserve better.