LED driver circuit

Thread Starter

Bud_M

Joined Sep 24, 2024
5
I'm an old newbie. I mean vacuum tube and relay old.
But I have a question about new stuff.
I have an LED light with (48) type 3535 5 watt led's and (1) type 5050 16 watt LED which is being powered with 12VDC (or 24VDC). There is circuitry that separates the LED's into 6 groups of 8 LED's in each group or 3 groups of 16. There are 2 circuit boards that are very similar except one has the 16 watt LED. The second board is powered with jumpers from the first boards main power connection point. There is a variety of components on each circuit board some of which I am unable to identify but I can provide images of them. The obvious ones are easy: resistors, capacitors, diodes and coils. All are surface mounted on an aluminum-backed circuit board mounted in a cast aluminum heatsink housing some, including a 6-pin and an 8-pin
My question is "Does a circuit exist that can time separate powering the LED groups so that they are turned on sequentially to allow the supply current to not exceed the 20 amps with 12 volt supply."
The LED's work but no power gets to them so I want to repair the circuit, but first, I want to know how it works.
 

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sghioto

Joined Dec 31, 2017
8,634
Can you post a link to this LED light?
How do you know the LEDs work if no power gets to them.
Post clear HD photos of the circuit boards.
 

Thread Starter

Bud_M

Joined Sep 24, 2024
5
Can you post a link to this LED light?
How do you know the LEDs work if no power gets to them.
Post clear HD photos of the circuit boards.
I was able to illuminate them when I tested them with an ohmmeter.That's how I found them to be in sets of 8. The circuit boards are a little less than 1 inch wide and over 2 feet long. Attached is a series of pictures of the circuit board. This is the link to the light bar:
52 Inch 49LED Single Row Spot Screw-Less Night Vision LED Light Bar
https://www.nilight.com/collections...t-vision-led-light-bar-14awg-wire-5pin-switch
Thanks for even considering helping me with this "quest". I just bought another LED light bar and it works. I got both from Macbid, a business that resells returns from big box stores.
I'm probably wrong but I think U3 may be a 5-line ESD protection diode array. I've got some other guesses but I have even less confidence in them so I won't share them.


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Thread Starter

Bud_M

Joined Sep 24, 2024
5
So you have an identical working unit?
I see Q2 is a power mosfet.
Can you read the part numbers on U2 and U3?
The functioning light is not the same. It is of similar but higher power. The part numbers are: U2-Hi7003H and DT2123G, U3-CK274. D4,5,7&8-B06S10, D6-SB1045L, C9-CS 22 35, C10&C11-100 35V VT. I think some diodes are unmarked except with a rectangle.
 

Thread Starter

Bud_M

Joined Sep 24, 2024
5
Without a schematic it's impossible to try and repair on line.
I have a different 'problem': it appears to be working now. My assumption is that a cold solder joint has been "fixed" by my testing and will, probably, fail again. I applied 12vdc to the main power solder connection on the second circuit board and all LED's lit up. Painfully bright, I might add. I then applied the same 'test' to the first board and got the same result. I have requested a schematic from the manufacturer and/or a list of components (BOM) and, if I get either I'll be a bit surprised. Thanks for responding to my query.
Bud McGregor
 

sghioto

Joined Dec 31, 2017
8,634
OK, since both boards are now working we can get back to your original request to alternate both sets of LEDs.
Inexpensive relay timer modules exist to do that with just a simple mod to the light fixture.
 
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Thread Starter

Bud_M

Joined Sep 24, 2024
5
The second relay box is for a V8 engine so the 4.2l engine is, apparently, a replacement.
As for sequencing the LED's to limit power consumption I do not have access to the separate circuit boards without making a hole or holes in the cast aluminum housing to run wiring into the fixture and timers are not really the kind of sequencing I was considering. The circuit I imagined to be in use was using PWM control high frequency which would allow the individual sets of LED's to be sequentially powered at a rate high enough that the LED's would remain illuminated during the very short off time by persistence and appear to all be fully powered.
Thanks for your advice.
 
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