Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed that LED incandescent-replacement bulbs don't seem to live up to their life-time rating?

I mean, not even close. I get maybe 6 mos. out of warm white 60 watt equivalents, not the 12 or 14 years advertised.

My incandescents lasted much longer.

 

My incandescents lasted much longer.

What I was gonna say...

Maybe slightly better than their fluorescent precursors which also don't last as long.

 

I thought so. The engineer in me hasn’t performed an extended study but..,

My LED bulbs definitely last less than the old incandescents. Any supposed savings from amortizing higher bulb prices over the lifetime of the bulb...

SIMPLY ISN’T THERE!

 

Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed that LED incandescent-replacement bulbs don't seem to live up to their life-time rating?

I mean, not even close. I get maybe 6 mos. out of warm white 60 watt equivalents, not the 12 or 14 years advertised.

My incandescents lasted much longer.

Maybe cost effective over energy saving? A loss is loss to whom?

I thought so. The engineer in me hasn’t performed an extended study but..,

My LED bulbs definitely last less than the old incandescents. Any supposed savings from amortizing higher bulb prices over the lifetime of the bulb...

SIMPLY ISN’T THERE!

If we want grid cost vs our cost to purchase, the grid wins. Manufacturing cost and distribution should be the one that wins, you would think.

I guess it depends on who funds it.

kv

 

My experience for what it's worth - an old post:
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/cfls-obsolete-already.116681/page-2#post-913392

I'm now about 5.5 years into my trial of about 40 of these MR16 Philips downlights, I can report no failures and all are giving full output as far as I can tell. Many are on for about 10hrs/day. The link in the earlier post is broken, for those interested here is a picture of the bulb construction:


Good LEDs are reliable, cheap drive electronics with poor thermal design isn't.

My recommendation, find a reputable manufacturer (GE, Philips etc..), buy bulbs with specified lifetimes (15,000 - 25,000 hrs are available), beware of using them with poor ventilation and you should get the specified performance. The typical lifetime of incandescents is 2000 hrs, and these LED bulbs are far, far better. Since changing to reputable CFLs and LEDs, I rarely have to change a bulb these days.

The main weakness of LED bulbs is in the replacement business where they have to conform to the shape of an incandescent bulb, where the drive electronics has to be squeezed into a bulb. Venting of fittings is essential. For new installations, use LED fittings with an external driver.

 

LED lamp lifetime is extremely sensitive to manufacturing quality factors.
Cost pressure keeps us riding on the hairy edge of quality.

Remember the early 2000's when LED bulbs first came out and the mantra "was money saved over the life of the lamp"
People spent lots of cash on bulbs that died in 6 months, it took the LED lighting industry about 5 years to recover from that. Once bitten, twice shy.

I only buy big brand lights, they understand the equation where higher manufacturing cost pays off in higher reliability, which translates to greater sales due to brand loyalty.

Otherwise, it's a hit-and-run affair.

 

I find very often that the claimed lifetime of an LED lamp is often longer than the expected lifetime of the electrolytic capacitors that are used the the lamp's electronics.

Les.

 

I'm using Philips LED bulbs here and have had no problems with longevity, no duds and no early failures in the 3 years they've been running ≈16 hrs/day.

Other brands I tried, not so good.

 

I find very often that the claimed lifetime of an LED lamp is often longer than the expected lifetime of the electrolytic capacitors that are used the the lamp's electronics.

Les.

But 99% of the time it's a diebond or wirebond failure that kills them...

 

Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed that LED incandescent-replacement bulbs don't seem to live up to their life-time rating?

I mean, not even close. I get maybe 6 mos. out of warm white 60 watt equivalents, not the 12 or 14 years advertised.

My incandescents lasted much longer.

I don't wonder inasmuch as Florida rejoices as 'the lightning capital of the world'! Then too is the tropical climate -- If transients don't get 'em over-temp will

FWIW my solution for truly reliable indoor illumination is via deployment of 175W Hg HIDs hermetically sealed in glass 'food service' jars (such that Hg contaminated 'shrapnel' will be contained in the highly unlikely --albeit above zero-probably-- event of spontaneous arc-vessel disruption). Note also that the standard Na-glass jar functions admirably as a broad-spectrum UV filter should the lamp's outer borosilicate envelope fail (with subsequent exposure of the operating arc-vessel) -- a good deal inasmuch as, (as many a welder and xc skier can attest) - photokeratitis is da bomb!

An image of my prototype (note that the lamp's 'mogul base' socket is sealed to the jar's lid via high-temp silicone 'rubber')



Best regards
HP

 

But 99% of the time it's a diebond or wirebond failure that kills them...

Dear old China! -- The 'gift' that just keeps on 'giving'

Best regards
HP

 

That is one classy-looking table lamp!

 

I don't wonder inasmuch as Florida rejoices as 'the lightning capital of the world'! Then too is the tropical climate -- If transients don't get 'em over-temp will

FWIW my solution for truly reliable indoor illumination is via deployment of 175W Hg HIDs hermetically sealed in glass 'food service' jars (such that Hg contaminated 'shrapnel' will be contained in the highly unlikely --albeit above zero-probably-- event of spontaneous arc-vessel disruption). Note also that the standard Na-glass jar functions admirably as a broad-spectrum UV filter should the lamp's outer borosilicate envelope fail exposing a functioning arc-vessel -- a good deal inasmuch as, (as many a welder and xc skier can attest) - photokeratitis is da bomb!

An image of my prototype (note that the lamp's 'mogul base' socket is sealed to the jar's lid via high-temp silicone 'rubber')
View attachment 202153


Best regards
HP

Is it stable? Looks heavier at the top.

Sorry HP, what jars are these? For food you said?

 

Is it stable? Looks heavier at the top.

The mass of the ballast lowers the assembly's center of gravity

what jars are these? For food you said?

That'd be 'Food Service' Jars -- Internal volume ~ 4 litres. Commonly available as 'empties' from restaurants, cafeterias, schools as well as hospital and 'long-term care center' dietary depts, etc...

Additionally, such containers are frequently employed as containers for low PH foods (e.g. pickles, green olives, pre-mixed vinaigrette, etc.) available at many supermarkets...

Note that the cited safety features require that said jars are fashioned of glass and equipped with metallic lids!

Very best regards
HP

 

What do you figure is the equivalent incandescent wattage for that lamp? I'd guess that its light output would be roughly that of a 500-1000W tungsten bulb?

 

I have been using nothing but LED bulbs for over 10 years, and had the first two fail by getting dim just recently. For me they do last way longer than incandescent and the laughable compact fluorescents.

Bob

 

I have had a dud here or there but I'm getting good 11 years on some of them. I've had great luck with the Great Value 60 and 100 watt equivalent warm white from Walmart. I remember a time when I had to keep 4-8 bulbs incandescent bulbs on hand so we can keep the house lit.

 

What do you figure is the equivalent incandescent wattage for that lamp? I'd guess that its light output would be roughly that of a 500-1000W tungsten bulb?

Hello OBW0549 -- Thanks for your interest!

Based upon my own tests/experiments:
Luminous flux yield of (nominally) specified '175W' 'clear' Hg HIDs ranges from ~9,000 lumens at 180W electrical input (to the lamp) --to-- Ca 30,000+ lumens at 650W electrical input (to the lamp).

Assuming I've done my 'rithmetic correctly, the above corresponds to roughly the flux obtained via rated operation of (non-halogen) 500W and 2000W incandescents (respectively).

Note that (Re: 175W-specified Hg Vapor lamps):
180W electrical input (to the lamp) gives ~ 15,000 hours continuous operational life (i.e. to <= 5% reduction in luminous output) - whereas:
600w electrical input (to the lamp) gives at least 200 hours continuous operational life (i.e. to <=5% reduction in luminous output).

Please note my emphasis upon power consumed by the lamp itself such that ballast efficiency is irrelevant...

Lamp efficiency falls off rapidly above 650W with lamps, not uncommonly, 'going out with a bang'!

Hope this is helpful?

Very best regards
HP

 

Assuming I've done my 'rithmetic correctly, the above corresponds to roughly the flux obtained via rated operation of (non-halogen) 500W and 2000W incandescants (respectively).

Yup, 'bout what I figured. Makes a nice reading lamp, doesn't it?

 

Yup, 'bout what I figured. Makes a nice reading lamp, doesn't it?

Aye! Friends(?) tell me that, when fully illuminated, "a drunken blind man could thread a needle in a corner" of my study...

But then I begin to think exercise of some reticence on my part may be in order -- lest I be aligned with the sentiment expressed in the 'ditty' linked below!

TTFN
HP