There's been a lot of cool/helpful input here but my level of expertise is getting confused with the options. I thought there would be something simple that would condition the output of the generator that I could get off the shelf, to install pre-boiler.

Based on my experience powering my home and all the electronics in it including my furnace you do not need to condition anything from the generator. That includes running everything on my old Coleman Power Mate as well as the newer whole house 18 KW unit. If you are referring to 5.6 KW (The Power) at 120 Volts that is some substantial current, about 54 Amps. Most AC generators when they get above a few KW have 120 and 240 Volt outputs. While it would be nice to know the make and model I seriously doubt there is any need for power conditioning. Got any pictures and especially a picture of the nameplate data and the outlet plate?

Ron

 

Closing the connection to ground on an otherwise floating circuit assures the possibility of a shock relative to ground. .

Why do you suppose that grounding an isolated residential supply is purposely referenced to Earth Ground just about anywhere in the world?

Max.

 

Why do you suppose that grounding an isolated residential supply is purposely referenced to Earth Ground just about anywhere in the world?

Max.

Mostly because there are very few truly isolated residential supplies is why, and also because if the residential supply is ever connected to a non-isolated, neutral grounded source there would be the potential for problems. In addition, having a grounded neutral will save on copper wiring expenses. Aside from those reasons there is also the assumption that "it must be the right thing because everybody else is doing it.."

Unfortunately in some current versions of modified sine wave generators that use electronic switching, the output white wire is not at the chassis (Earth) potential. So in those cases grounding the neutral makes the frame of the generator hot, while grounding the frame of the generator makes the output white wire hot (hot= off ground).

 

Hey Max, I don;t think Mr Bill gets it, but not sure how to explain it to him.

Earth- is the real EARTH
Ground = the grounding conductor (can be a reference or carry faults)
Neutral - The current carrying return conductor
Hot - US: Red (L2) or Black (L1)

The number one reason is that there should be only one EARTH reference which eliminates ground loops.

A portable generator doesn't typically have an earth reference which is OK as long as it's powering a saw, a drill, a pump, a chain saw, a refrigerator, but not the house. There is a neutral-ground bond which is necessary to carry fault currents and provide a reference. it's an essentially isolated source. It doesn't put the plumbing at Earth potential and it really doesn't matter.

The House entity has a ground rod (Earth) and in ONE place Neutral and and ground come together and this provides a reference for the premises. The plumbing, the cable TV, the plumbing, the gas range all share this reference. If your water heater has a fault, the reference raises to accommodate it. Every thing in the house is referenced to the raised reference, so everyone is happy.

Daisy chained outlets create a problem. The house isn't harmed, but the downstream connected devices MIGHT be.

So, you take a portable generator and you have a ground-N bond at the generator and a ground-N-Earth bond at the house. I see a big ground loop.

To solve that problem the grounding conductor and Neutral has to be broken at the portable generator and the wires brought in separately and connected to the grounding conductor, neutral Hot 1 and Hot 2 in the house.
The reference (neutral/ground bond) is made at the ground rod and everyone is happy.

A whole-house generator is connected in this fashion.

If your willing to put a generator plug outside and can make the correct connections happen you can backfeed the panel through another breaker IFF you have an interlocking breaker. An interlocking breaker has a mechanical method of not allowing both to be on at the same time. You have to police it (current wise). A company will modify your panel for you.

The same deal happens with a sub-panel. The grounding conductor, L1, L2 and Neutral are run back to the main panel and the N-G bond is removed in the sub-panel. A ground bar kit is usually added, so neutral and ground is separate. We do this for an "attached" structure.

For a detached structure another ground rod is used at the detached structure. Earth isn't the same potential everywhere on Earth. Swimming pool sidewalk installs are quite complex.

So, NO GROUND LOOPS !

For a deteched structure

 

I generally refer to my copy of what is considered the 'Bible' by most jurisdictions, namely 'Soares Book on Grounding' by Eustace Soares and published by the IAEI (International Inspectors) and NJATC (Apprenticeship Training).
Has an appendix explaining the history of grounding.
Used as a reference by NEC/CEC & NFPA79.
Max.

 

Hey Max, I don;t think Mr Bill gets it, but not sure how to explain it to him.

It's not just this. He makes a lot of statements in threads that aren't right.

 

Would a power line conditioner work, like from TrippLite?

https://www.tripplite.com/products/power-conditioners~23

Thanks.

 

Asking again, how much power does the unit draw. When you mention 5.6K @120 Volts is that a 5.6 KW (5,600 Watt) generator? With the TrippLite units you linked to the largest unit is a 2,400 Watt unit and that is the absolute maximum power it can handle. That is 120 Volts at 20 Amps. Do you have any Make and Model information on this generator? It should have a name plate containing name plate data. Your boiler should also have name plate data as to actual power requirements? There is no way to say if any of the linked TrippLite units will work less some information from you.

Ron

 

Thanks, I'll try to find the manual for the generator and the info for the boiler.

 

Would a power conditioner be helpful for you?

Lily

https://medium.com/verdigristech/ho...ional-lifespan-of-your-equipment-4ce7acdae958