Specifically I'm thinking about using a harbor freight motion sensor/detector to pull it. I did that for an adafruit sound board last year which worked well. this one (fogger) only has the key fob IR remote. I was hoping to have the HF sensor trigger the on button.

thoughts?

 

Open the remote, find the switch points.

If the PIR sensor has a dry contact closure, you could just connect it to the switch.

Rip open the remote and post pictures of the innards.

 

Open the remote, find the switch points.

If the PIR sensor has a dry contact closure, you could just connect it to the switch.

Rip open the remote and post pictures of the innards.

 

On the HF sensor (receiver) I just tied into an LED that flashed to hit the pin on my sound board.

Not sure if that would work here. I think it’s a momentary button and the depression time matches the fog time. Small fogger with no settings.

 

The PIR should have an official relay output.

Try connecting it to one of those push buttons- no need to remove the switch, just tack solder to the connections at the ends.

 

Wow, check out the placement on D2! Just barely on there. (Don't get me wrong, I'm sure it's probably fine, just eye catching.)

 

Well I powered it with my bench box (not battery on hand).

Used a jumper wire to bridge the soldier points on the ON switch. Works.

But it stays on until I bridge the points on the OFF switch.

I know it has a thermal cutoff but that’s not what I wanted. Just a short burst of a few seconds.

Thoughts?

 

Well I powered it with my bench box (not battery on hand).

Used a jumper wire to bridge the soldier points on the ON switch. Works.

But it stays on until I bridge the points on the OFF switch.

I know it has a thermal cutoff but that’s not what I wanted. Just a short burst of a few seconds.

Thoughts?

It’s also intermittent: sometimes the jumper can start or stop it and otter times it can’t.

Odd.

 

Decided to go another route. Instead of fooling with the remote, the IR receiver has two points I can tap into with a reed switch that might get the job done.

Problem is, it tested 120 AC and it’s a 100VDC .5a switch.

Side note: why would those two points on the IR receiver show AC 120 and 85 V when my DMM is set to DC? Hadn’t noticed that before.

Is that my southwire showing a dc component that happens to be about .707 of the 120?

The IR receiver is plugged into the fogger and has no transformer—so it appears AC. Don’t want to burn the reed switch.