Yes that is what I am referring to. It is possible (probable?) That ones they had at your previous plant did have electric components, just not in the gun part. I'm seeing 2 main groups of these; ones with the magical bits in the nozzle, and ones with a magic box that is separated from the nozzle by a long hose.I worked at a place where they made plastic car interior parts for a few years. In their paint department they use an air gun that I'm assuming your talking about. When the parts came from the molding press they were put in cardboard boxes and sent to the paint department. There they were hung on racks to be painted. The parts were "dusted off" using one of the special air guns. What ever was inside the gun eliminated the static charge on the parts and the dust or even cardboard fibers from the boxes would just drop to the floor.
These guns had no electric wires hooked to them, just the air hose. So don't know what was in them but do know they worked very well to remove dust before painting the parts.
They require a compressed air supply, they don't generate air flow as far as I understand. Seems like they just "charge" the compressed air with "ions" that make statically attracted debris want to fall of objects.I'm speculating here ... but maybe they just use ordinary compressed air. Compressed air always has a measurable degree of moisture in it, unless a special drying process is used. In fact, scheduling the purge of compressed air tanks is vital for basic maintenance.
Maybe it's the natural moisture present in compressed air that acts as an anti-static agent of sorts.
I think that's a joke but I don't know what the joke is.Great demo, strantor! All you need is an abundant emitter of alpha particles or a high voltage to generate the ions.
Nope, no electrical at all, they had a supposed "nuclear" something in them. I have one, so I went to my barn attic and looked in my spray painting stuff. No brand name on it only "BG-8" cast into the aluminum body on both side of the handle.Yes that is what I am referring to. It is possible (probable?) That ones they had at your previous plant did have electric components, just not in the gun part. I'm seeing 2 main groups of these; ones with the magical bits in the nozzle, and ones with a magic box that is separated from the nozzle by a long hose.
I'm OK with magic, but... no that's a lie, I'm not OK with magic. I need to understand how things work to believe in them, but I will press and hold the "I believe" button long enough to try something and see how it works if someone credible vouches for it, which you have, so thank you!
Ok, cool! I didn't look into the nuclear models because they require paperwork.Nope, no electrical at all, they had a supposed "nuclear" something in them. I have one, so I went to my barn attic and looked in my spray painting stuff. No brand name on it only "BG-8" cast into the aluminum body on both side of the handle.
If this is for your S10 repaint, to eliminate junk in the paint job, they aren't very effective for that. I used it on 3 bikes I painted and while the dust blew away, not having a down drat paint booth like the company had, the dust floating in the air ,getting stirred up by the spray gun still got crap in the paint.
The next bike I just got one of those tack cloths and it worked just as well as the anti static gun, maybe even better. It all comes down to the place you paint in.
And the air through the gun from the compressor. I bought but never have used it one of the HVLP fan powered paint compressors from Tip Tools. I got it at one of their scratch and dent sales, since I live ~5miles from them I used to get some of their deals. I never used it because I didn't have the correct face mask for the hardened urethane paint and got chemical pneumonia from doing two bikes a week apart. I got the 3stage one from Tip ,compressor, gun and hose in a kit.
https://www.tptools.com/HVLP-Paint-Systems.html
Some primers are very porous and grab paint well but not intended as the final coat - the talc and other inorganic fillers can hydrate and lift off the steel - and quickly rust. All of your hard work will go to waste. I suggest that you get bored soon.But, advice still accepted as I haven't finished that truck yet. It's primered and sitting under the lean-to behind my barn waiting for me to get bored.
That company also did that. Mostly on GM car dash inserts that had the fake wood grain on them. It saved one step in making them, putting a self stick applique on after molding. The assembly people seem to have a problem positioning the applique correctly, and you only had one shot doing it.They work well and any company doing an injection molding process called "film-inset-molding"
Modern film insert molding films usually have two or four holes punched at specific locations. The holes are used to hange the film on pins in the mold. The injected resin flows over the film and the film is "perfectly" placed. Perfectly is in quotes because it can creep at high temps or high sheer. The static is generated on the film when peeling off the protective films from the printed film.That company also did that. Mostly on GM car dash inserts that had the fake wood grain on them. It saved one step in making them, putting a self stick applique on after molding. The assembly people seem to have a problem positioning the applique correctly, and you only had one shot doing it.
That's why most high end painters use what is called epoxy primmer directy on the bare metal, then a primer and sealer after that. The epoxy primer is also called "Y2K" primer.Some primers are very porous and grab paint well but not intended as the final coat
What they used was much more simple. A reel of film on one side of the mold, and a take up reel on the other side. When the mold opened the takeup reel advanced the film. The "good" side of the film faced the finished side of the mold cavity and the injected plastic forced it against the cavity. Crude but did the job needed.Modern film insert molding films usually have two or four holes punched at specific locations.
I'm not sure your going to get the results you think you will. Just the blowing of the air will probably make new static in a closed area like a box car. It's probably going to take a pressure washer type thing to remove the plastic dust. One that uses something on the order of clothes washing or dryer sheet anti-static chemical added to the water. Static and plastic are great friends, so it takes something else to break the bonding.it's for work; for "air washing" the inside of railcars that have plastic dust clinging to epoxied walls. I was instructed to choose and purchase one to be tested.
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