International rectifier question

Thread Starter

Bigfillly

Joined Jan 4, 2019
73
Hi,
I have a faulty kelly controller off my ev kart, I’ve contacted Kelly controllers but they say it will cost too much to ship through customs and they can not garentee they could repair it,
So I’ve now took it apart and found a component blown, i think it’s called an international rectifier, have a look at the pics, there are a few numbers missing, my question is do I need to replace this component with one that has the same numbers or do they all do the same thing?
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/...0/?temp_hash=d7b22e447f2b1ed2eae427a028228e86
Thanks,
Phil.
 

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JoeJester

Joined Apr 26, 2005
4,390
According to a google search it's a hexfet. I don't know where you live or the distributors over there but the part number is LR3410.
 

Thread Starter

Bigfillly

Joined Jan 4, 2019
73
Awesome data sheet thanks danadak, and thanks joejester for confirming the part number, I’m sure I’ll be able to get one here in the uk,
Looking at the data sheet I have the numbers that matter, the only thing is, it has a P on it so it’s lead free and it states to solder using vapor phase, infrared or wave soldering techniques, does that mean I can’t use a normal soldering iron?
Thanks again,
Phil.
 

jpanhalt

Joined Jan 18, 2008
10,515
Yes, you can use a soldering iron with it. That comment refers to new, production line assembly. It describes permissible techniques for that situation but not all techniques that may used. Here's the application note referenced: https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infin...N.pdf?fileId=5546d46265f064ff01667ab5829d4d44

Rework is described at the end. I have soldered such devices using a large soldering iron to get the tab/heat sink hot enough to let solder flow. Using leadd solder may help.

Right now, you need to get that area on the PCB cleaned up and the device removed. Is the tab soldered or just attached with a thermally conductive "glue?" A large iron with a chisel tip (the one I use is 80W) may be needed, or if you have a hot air soldering outfit, that will probably work too.

Replacing that device may fix the kart temporarily but not fix the problem, and the new mosfet may also fail for the same reason. Within limits, you can also substitute a mosfet with higher or same rating for voltage and current.
 

Thread Starter

Bigfillly

Joined Jan 4, 2019
73
Thanks for the link jpanhalt, I’ll get it cleaned up today and have a proper look, from what I can see I think it’s glued (hopefully)
My battery bank was at 51v and the controller states 24v-48v do you think this is the reason it blew or could there be another component failed?
Thanks very much a again for the help,
Phil.
 

Thread Starter

Bigfillly

Joined Jan 4, 2019
73
I have remover the old broken one and it was soldered on, Ive been to our electronics components shop but they only have the type that goes through the board so I’ve found what I think is the right one on eBay, it’s eBay item number 113689347732 can someone please let me know if this would be ok to use,
Thank you for the help,
Phil.
 

jpanhalt

Joined Jan 18, 2008
10,515
That is the same part number, but do you know how reliable the source is?

Farnell (aka Newark-Farnell) is a major UK distributor. Same device of known quality is about $1 each there: https://www.newark.com/search?st=IRFR3410

As I mentioned earlier, that mosfet may only be the weakest link in the failed controller. That is, it acted like a fuse. When I do something like this, I buy 3 of the parts (like buying wine :) ). One to test. One to fix when the test finds the real problem. And one as a backup.
 

Thread Starter

Bigfillly

Joined Jan 4, 2019
73
I have no clue, I’ve never bought from them before, I’ll contact them in Newark and see what they say, thank you very much for the link jpanhalt, I’ll update when I find more out,
Thanks again,
Phil.
 

jpanhalt

Joined Jan 18, 2008
10,515
I forgot to add that when you unsolder it, it may be easier to cut the two leads, then remove the device, then remove the two stubs left on the pads. Get some "solder wick" . It will make removal easier. I use Chemtronics brand solder wick in the "B" size.

With care, you may also be able to convert the leaded version to the SMD version, if the tab is the same size. Just cut the center lead short and bend leads 1 & 3 to fit.
 

Thread Starter

Bigfillly

Joined Jan 4, 2019
73
I’ll get the right one ordered, hopefully it fixes the controller, I’m hoping so anyway, I was expecting to buy another one at £250 plus shipping :-o
Thanks again for all the help, I’ll let you know how it goes when it’s installed,
Phil.
 

Thread Starter

Bigfillly

Joined Jan 4, 2019
73
Hi again,
I swapped out the rectifier but it’s still the same, I’ll have to remove all the white stuff that’s hiding everything and check the other components :-(
 
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