Behind the mounting position there's nothing only the induction magnet but has a different wiring. If you need I take a picture of the central unit where the switch is cabled to the mother board..OK this will be interesting because that is not a standard push button. We do not see the rest of it, but I am guessing that it was a membrane switch. That was an incredibly poor choice by the equipment builder.
The switching function will be "single pole, normally Open" = SPST-NO. The selection will depend on the space available behind the mounting position. As we have no information about what is in that area behind the button position I am unable to suggest any specific replacement.
So we need to know what that part of the product does and what is behind the spot where the button was mounted.
So how do you know for sure the switch is the problem?I've tried also connecting directly the two wires without the switch but didn't start the machine...
I've explained wrong sorry I'm not very good with English . The switch is working but I need do utilize the machine also from a distance. So I wanted to build an extension with another switch..So how do you know for sure the switch is the problem?
I tested with the multimeter and is normally open and when I push has ~2000 ohm resistance. And work at 12 V. Do you think this as difference from a nornal switch?If you do not already have a multimeter then buy one so you can test the switch to be certain of its function. If, as I suspect, it is a momentary contact switch that briefly closes as you press it to initiate a start function then something like this https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/push-button-switches/8780836 would do the job. firstly though, you must make sure of the function of the existing switch.
I didn't find a switch with this resistor yet. I think noww Is what I need. I think is in series when pushing the switchThe 2k SMT resistor can be seen in the pic, did you use one on the remote switch?
From your reading, the resistor is in series with the switch when pushed ?
Thank you very much I will tryAny switch you find, you most likely will have to wire in a separate resistor, wire it in the lead.
This may make it possible to use any contact-closure PB. switch
Thank you very much! I will try to do as you say! Do you have an example of that momentary action pendant switch?Now the entire scope of the project is very much different! First it was to replace a failed switch, now it is to add a different momentary switch someplace else. THAT project is simple and does not require so very much good fortune. In addition, that 2000 ohm resistor is a whole new concern.
A momentary action pendant switch is often available from industrial equipment sellers. There is even exactly that that was sold for automotive mechanics to use for engaging the starter motor to turn engines. I own one of those! They are very simple indeed. That is, or at least was, a standard automotive mechanic tool. You would need to change the cable and add the resistor in series, that will not be difficult.
Yes i would mount it on a tubolar andler. Because to use it better I need to see from a little more distance where I'm working on dented surfaces.I am not that much in favour of switches on the end of leads, is there no permanent spot you could mount it?
Why would you need a mobile switch on a induction heating M/C?