I HATE patches

Thread Starter

cmartinez

Joined Jan 17, 2007
8,722
1. Get yourself some insulated wire-wrap wire.

2. Don't leave those bare leads touching the board over copper (regardless of soldermask).
Thanks for the advice. Wire-wrap wire is a bit too thick for my taste ... maybe I should've used magnet wire instead?
 
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Thread Starter

cmartinez

Joined Jan 17, 2007
8,722
For the work in the photo, I used 28 AWG split in half. So yes, insulated 30 AWG would be fat in comparison. But you have a point in saying (implying) that it's perfectly workable.

Gonna get myself some 30, the thinnest I have with me right now is 28.
 

joeyd999

Joined Jun 6, 2011
6,204
For the work in the photo, I used 28 AWG split in half. So yes, insulated 30 AWG would be fat in comparison. But you have a point in saying (implying) that it's perfectly workable.

Gonna get myself some 30, the thinnest I have with me right now is 28.
Regardless, my most serious concern is the uninsulated wire lying on the traces. Soldermask is not intended as an insulator.

At a minimum, apply scotch tape to the board under the wires to give some protection. Kapton is even better.
 

Thread Starter

cmartinez

Joined Jan 17, 2007
8,722
After taking a closer look, I don't think that's a LED. It's way too small. Most likely, it's a reflection of some sort.
 
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MrSoftware

Joined Oct 29, 2013
2,273
1. Get yourself some insulated wire-wrap wire.

2. Don't leave those bare leads touching the board over copper (regardless of soldermask).
Magnet wire also works well, 30awg or smaller. It's covered in lacquer for super thin insulation. Dip the ends in molten solder to clean the lacquer right off, sometimes you can get away without cleaning the ends first.
 

Thread Starter

cmartinez

Joined Jan 17, 2007
8,722
Magnet wire also works well, 30awg or smaller. It's covered in lacquer for super thin insulation. Dip the ends in molten solder to clean the lacquer right off, sometimes you can get away without cleaning the ends first.
I do that all the time with magnet wire. I super heat my soldering iron to 400°C (750°F) and then tin the magnet wire's tips with it. The high temp chars the insulation away. After that, I lower the temp and proceed to normal soldering.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
27,159
For an MCU crystal oscillator?

Never heard of such a thing (over a hundred years of doing this). Enlighten me.
I did not mean that a clamp diode would be reasonable. And it might also be a QC inspector mark. If somebody is able to magnify the image a whole lot they might see something better.
 
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