Hi,

I currently have a kettle with a blown fuse.

bussmann 13A BS1362 is written on it

I have bought a replacement fuse from my local supermarket that costs £1 for a pack of 9.

This is a link to it

https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-...iEAQYAyABEgKFpfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#review-data


I am slightly hesitant to use these fuses as they are very cheap compared to other fuses that i have found online.

Apparently cheap fuses are dangerous to use as they dont blow straight away above their stated rating.

Is it possible if someone could please advice me with their expertise on fuses

 

They are ok to use, they're made to BS1362 standard.

 

If you succeed to get the right fuse, keep in mind you still don't know the cause of the previous melting.

 

Hi,

I currently have a kettle with a blown fuse.

bussmann 13A BS1362 is written on it

I have bought a replacement fuse from my local supermarket that costs £1 for a pack of 9.

This is a link to it

https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/306351012?sc_cmp=ppc*GHS+-+Grocery+-+New*PX_Shopping+GCS_New_Generic_Home+&+Entertainment+Products*New:+Non-Food:+Home+&+Entertainment:+Home+&+Entertainment*PRODUCT_GROUP306351012*&ds_rl=1116322&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw_72grPt7wIVjP93Ch1GDwGiEAQYAyABEgKFpfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#review-data


I am slightly hesitant to use these fuses as they are very cheap compared to other fuses that i have found online.

Apparently cheap fuses are dangerous to use as they dont blow straight away above their stated rating.

Is it possible if someone could please advice me with their expertise on fuses

There have been problems in the UK with counterfeit fuses in the past. If they are real Bussman fuses they are OK, if not, they are a mystery. This might help a little: https://www.doncasterfreepress.co.uk/news/poundworld-recalls-potentially-dangerous-fake-fuses-61754

 

1) The fake ones tend to make connection between the fuse wire and the cap simply by folding the wire down the outside of the tube and pressing the cap over it. Real ones are welded.
2) The real ones are full of sand to quench the arc, the fake ones are empty.
3) At a guess the fake ones may have the wrong size wire, but after I'd found points 1 and 2, I knew that they were fake and didn't measure it.
Some of the more blatant fakes don't have the correct marking - the BSI "Kitemark" or the ASTA symbol, and don't have a manufacturer's name.

 

There has to be a reason that the fuse blew. If you have a multimeter, check that the heating element resistance is compatible with its wattage rating. A 2kW element for a 240V supply should have a resistance of around 30Ω.

 

Also measure resistance between live and earth (with the switch on) and between neutral and earth. Any reading other than "open circuit" means you need a new element.