It looks like the first thing to do is to wire the Heating-Elements in series instead of parallel.
This will supply roughly 25% of the maximum Heat potential available
and reduce the huge Current on the controlling devices.
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Yes it is the correct pot.

I love the USSR heat sync that things wild.

Sorry staff for the sware...

so I could of been using the right SSR but it just got to hot? Is there any brand of USA made SSR that you guys think are better then cheep china ?

 

There is probably nothing "wrong" with
your Chinese "Triac-Speed-Controller" ( it is NOT a Solid-State-Relay ).

The first thing to do is to determine how much Heat that You actually need for your application.

Why do You need 2 Heating-Elements ?

The easiest, and least expensive way to reduce the Temperature is
to wire the Heating-Elements in series, rather than in parallel, as they are shown.
This will reduce the seriously heavy Current demands that You are currently having to deal with.

Probably, and I'm only guessing here, You need much less Power than You currently have available.
Most likely, the only time full-Power is useful is when trying to quickly warm-up
the Machine from "Room-Temperature" ( or "Cold" ), to the desired "Operating-Temperature".

Is a "fast warm-up-Time" important to the operation of this Machine ?
How much Temperature variation is tolerable ?

Using 2 Triac-Speed-Controllers, one for each of the Heating-Elements,
would give You more options as to how this system could be configured.

A small Fan to cool the Controllers would be a good idea,
and would reduce the Heat-Sink size requirements.

Triac-Speed-Controllers generate a tremendous amount of "Electrical-Noise" which
can have unwanted effects on other Electronic-Equipment nearby.
Using actual Solid-State-Relays that are only "On" or "Off"
would eliminate, or at least, greatly reduce, this potential problem.
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Is there any brand of USA made SSR that you guys think are better then cheep china ?

Does not matter where SSR are manufactured, they heat up equally.
Usually surfaces of heatsink and SSR are not even,

therefore they need to be lapped each other to remove any gaps,
then cleaning by cloth + alcohol,
then putting thermal paste between them.
Using SSR with gaps between SSR and heatsink
is the same, as use SSR without heatsink.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapping
https://sound-au.com/heatsinks.htm

 

A small Fan to cool the Controllers would be a good idea,
and would reduce the Heat-Sink size requirements.

Was going to make this recommendation myself but LowQCab got there first. So - I agree, a fan is an ideal solution, along with a good heatsink.

As for this thing being NOT an SSR but rather a "Triac Speed Controller" makes a big difference in how the problem is approached.

There is probably nothing "wrong" with
your Chinese "Triac-Speed-Controller" ( it is NOT a Solid-State-Relay ).

Again I agree with LQC. It doesn't seem to be a parts problem rather than an application problem. And LQC has already stated they can be quite noisy as well. So thumbs up LQC. I think this is the right solution.

 

I have done a few industrial heaters and NEVER EVER used a variable control like that to adjust the heat output.
In addition, I would use two SSR devices, one for each heater element. Heat output is controlled with duty cycle:1 minute on, one minute off is 50%, and no complaints about RFI buzz on the TV or the radio.. Also, with 2 SSRs much lower stress on the control device. BUT STILL THE HEAT SINK IS NEEDED.

 

Heat output is controlled with duty cycle:1 minute on, one minute off is 50%, and no complaints about RFI buzz on the TV or the radio.. Also, with 2 SSRs much lower stress on the control device. BUT STILL THE HEAT SINK IS NEEDED.

Yeah. Just like an electric stove. The heating element switches between on and off. For higher heat settings it's on longer than it's off and for lower heat settings it's off longer than it's on. For high - it's just ON.

Great suggestion.

 

Yeah. Just like an electric stove. The heating element switches between on and off. For higher heat settings it's on longer than it's off and for lower heat settings it's off longer than it's on. For high - it's just ON.

Great suggestion.

Which is just PWM at a low (< 1Hz) frequency.

 

The first belt dryer I purchased for my shop used triac power control, some few years into operation the triac let out the magic smoke and the unit was converted into PID control but the spot heating units always used triac control but I was very careful to use the proper filtering to mostly eliminate the RFI.

The PID control used a low voltage relay and a large Mercury relay.

 

Happy holidays every one Hope you have had a great last few days. Is it against this forums rules to ask for information that would lead to me paying a contractor to shop and draw a diagram for me to follow ? I understand that the heat sync is needed and the fan is already an idea I had and I have just yet to cut the box further.. Is there a Relay that is needed then two of these " Triac Speed Controller" would balance the load better? allowing for me to split the heat from the relay? instead of always having both on? Im fairly confused about if i am doing this properly or if theres a better way to do it?

 

Did the Machine not come with any type of Temperature-Controller ?,
or, are You building the Machine from scratch / DIY-style.

In any case, experiments and measurements will need to be done to
gather Data about the performance and specifications that You will need to achieve.
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If the control scheme does not utilize the phase control capability of the triac controller then I recommend using an actual on/off SSR of adequate rating. CRYDOM was the original product producer and that brand of product is always able to meet all of it's specifications. And certainly there is a wide spread in the quality of similarly specified products.
Probably an actual SSR will cost less than a triac speed control of adequate rating, an added benefit.

 

Happy holidays every one Hope you have had a great last few days. Is it against this forums rules to ask for information that would lead to me paying a contractor to shop and draw a diagram for me to follow ? I understand that the heat sync is needed and the fan is already an idea I had and I have just yet to cut the box further.. Is there a Relay that is needed then two of these " Triac Speed Controller" would balance the load better? allowing for me to split the heat from the relay? instead of always having both on? Im fairly confused about if i am doing this properly or if theres a better way to do it?

That is why there is personal contact available on these forums. I have had such requests on other threads. What is not clear to me is how private those conversations actually are. Possibly a moderator could comment on that.

 

Hello,

Private messages on this forum are really private.
The private messages can be used to share personal details.
Only the members mention in the participants list can see the messages.
There can be upto 10 participants in a private message.
No other member, moderator or administrator can see the messages.

Bertus

 

Possibly a moderator could comment on that.

While as far as I know the conversations are not encrypted they cannot be read by moderators.

The most prudent course, if you are concerned about confidentiality, is to use the conversation facility to establish a channel for communication that has sufficient security for your purpose (e.g.: email, Signal, Telegram, phone calls, &c.)

 

Hello,

Private messages on this forum are really private.
The private messages can be used to share personal details.
Only the members mention in the participants list can see the messages.
There can be upto 10 participants in a private message.
No other member, moderator or administrator can see the messages.

Bertus

I was typing at the same time, it seems.

Consider @bertus authoritative on this subject.

 

Hello,

While as far as I know the conversations are not encrypted they cannot be read by moderators.

As far as I know the site makes connection to the server using a HTTPS connection.
This should be secured.
Perhaps @jrap has more details about this.

Bertus

 

Yes, I meant on disk. In case someone was afraid that the data could be compromised. But you’re right if at @jrap could comment that would be genuinely authoritative.