Hey ya all how ya doing?

Im just looking for a bit of advice I am attempting to set up a a control box for a 220-240V system. I recently thought I was prepared but I melted the relay I bought, It 1 Was the wrong type 2 Cheep china mislabeled part. Im looking for some one to help me design a system, I am even willing to pay for your time. This is way over my head and Im just glad I didnt start a fire.

1, 50Amp Breaker, 2 is Amp meter, 3 Is SSR With control of any type currently use a pot, 4 Is 2 5500W Heating Elements

Below I Have posted images of the burnt relay Image 1,4,6, are the destroyed relay

Images 2,5 are the Old relay I was using.

Of you care to just throw some information my way I apricate it, If you can tell me what parts I need where to get them and how to wire them I will pay the Hero of my day. Im under the impression that my relay melted due to it being mislabeled... Please prove me wrong

 

Welcome to AAC.

It’s good to have the photos, very helpful. But, we really need to know what you are trying to control. Could you explain the problem you re trying to solve?

That is, once this is built, what will it control?
What is the input?
What is the load?

Although there are plenty of documented problems with parts sourced from China, it would not be my first line explanation. I wouldn’t rule it out, but I also wouldn’t want to make the mistake of settling on it before there was more reason that we currently have. (i.e.: parts from China bad!)

 

Hi E13,
Is the photo of the paper label showing 50VA? And is it from that SSR?
E
https://www.techtarget.com/whatis/definition/volt-ampere-VA

 

5500 W + 5500 W = 11000 W
11000 W / 220 V = 50 A
50 A * 1.2 V (voltage drops on relay) = 60 W of heat.
So you should mount relay on huge heatsink with thermal paste
and use blower for heatsink cooling.
And more - you should use module SSR-75VA, not SSR-50VA
because you need some current spare for reliability.


https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/1149346/FOTEK/SSR-50VA.html

 

You wired LINE and NEUTRAL across the relay?

 

You wired LINE and NEUTRAL across the relay?

I am sorry but I have to.
The most sensible to ask at first I believe.

But I believe the lack of heatsink is the problem

 

A drawing showing your exact connections would be helpful and indeed necessary to help you.

 

Don't know where I saw it - can't find it again, so I must be mistaken but are you trying to control the heat output? Not just turning it on but modulating the heat?

As others are asking, we need to see what you're attempting to do. Schematics are the language we speak best. As for your offer to pay someone for help - on this website that's not necessary. There will be plenty of us who would love to help you achieve your goal.

Part of what I need to understand is what voltage are you using to control the relay? It's already clear the relay is controlling 240VAC but I didn't see anything suggesting what the relay requires for a control voltage. I might have missed something but if you can give us those details (along with the schematic) would be helpful.

 

I see a 3-conductor cable (grey) coming of a double pole 240VAC breaker in the service panel.




As far as I can tell, I see two grey cables going across the output terminals of the SSR.

 

1. What is the purpose of the small power supply?

2. Given that you have a source of a fully-isolated control voltage, why not use a SSR with a more conventional voltage or current input?

3. What determines when to activate the heaters?

ak

 

It looks like a phase-controlled dimmer switch. The ON phase is controlled by a variable resistor on the input terminals, 3 and 4.

 

Don't know where I saw it - can't find it again, so I must be mistaken but are you trying to control the heat output? Not just turning it on but modulating the heat?

As others are asking, we need to see what you're attempting to do. Schematics are the language we speak best. As for your offer to pay someone for help - on this website that's not necessary. There will be plenty of us who would love to help you achieve your goal.

Part of what I need to understand is what voltage are you using to control the relay? It's already clear the relay is controlling 240VAC but I didn't see anything suggesting what the relay requires for a control voltage. I might have missed something but if you can give us those details (along with the schematic) would be helpful.

Here’s the trouble, Tony. It says “SOLID STATE RELAY’ but it’s pronounced “dimmer”. Check it out—explains the enigmatic:

1, 50Amp Breaker, 2 is Amp meter, 3 Is SSR With control of any type currently use a pot, 4 Is 2 5500W Heating Elements

 

Here is what shows up on the web.



https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=82936

 

So... I had the wrong plug for the outlet at the building... The owner of the building Grounded to his panel and Ran the breaker to the heating element I know.... Bad.... But It was a way to fix a problem.. So this is to control a boiler. Also there is a heat sink under the relay It is not just on a wood block... Now this is very important and I would like to only have to say this once. This will never be turned on to 100% I am only attempting to increase the surface area of the heat to reduce the chance of burning. The method is slow and low but instead of 1 5500W heating element going to 2 Elements to spread the heat distribution. On to the next bit Yes it was grounded to the Main panel ground there is a 3rd grey wire your not seeing. I the second power supply located in the box is for fans. I Believe I do need a larger heat sync so

Air circulation Check
Larger Heat sync Check
What I am here to ask is pretty much What relay should I be using and did I use the wrong type? Thank you to the person who posted the tech target link I will be getting to read that in the morning when I am of clear head long day at work dont think I can focus on it atm.

the sketch posted by Mr chips is indeed what I desire But instead of 30A im looking for more power. Also instead of 1 element Im looking for 2 Elements.

Thank you for any one who is helping me I do apricate the help id like to continue to not burn buildings down

 

Is this what you're saying? the upper is YOUR drawing, the lower, my interpretation of your drawing.

Notice two changes: The ground wire is more clearly defined in that it does not go to or through the relay. Also, the two contact points on the relay, your drawing shows them bridged, mine doesn't.

Will be back in 30 min's with what I THINK you might be looking for

 

This is my interpretation of the connections you want. The blue circle marked "Unsure of this connection" is just that - my uncertainty as to how it's connected. I can only leave that up to those who know more about it than I do. Notice the two green housings are the heating element assemblies and those are grounded to earth ground. They are otherwise unrelated to the circuit operation (as far as I know).

 

Tonyr1084 your a legend the blue area is the Potentiometer its the bottom of this relays area. that is the POT i have already I am willing to change things to make it suit a better relay. I basically need to know what I Can do to make this Relay not catch on fire... It got pretty damn close witch made me very very nervous... I thought I had done it right the info listed on this pot is what i based my information off this one handles very well.. but the one I bought got hot as <Mod: Deleted Expletive> like 10 mins. this one works fine iv done 16 hour runs with this guy and its a trooper

 

Hi Estone,
No swearing, in your posts.

Moderation.

 

I basically need to know what I Can do to make this Relay not catch on fire... It got pretty damn close witch made me very very nervous...

Сhange heatsink!
See at pictures:
First one is fake Chinese, used with your SSR, only 2 W dissipate power.
Second is old USSR heatsink, dissipates 15 W.
And last one dissipates 50 W.
Put thermal paste between SSR and heatsink!

 

What did you use for a pot? It seems to be calling for a 500K 2W pot. Is that what you used?