Im trying to make a Star Wars Prop for a course project where the dealine is comming up very fast in days and I need to do the report so really urgent

On the prop whihc is a portable control box Dual control box (Left side control panel, a tower in the middle and a right side control panel

On the the left sider there is a bank of 6 mix ed 12 v and 24 illuminted latching buttons plus 2 illuminatred switches with safety covers


On the right control box there is a set of 6 mixed 24 or 12v non latching illuminated switches,

one on its own, 24 v and a switch or two I think that lights up also 24.v

On control

See photos.
The effect Im tryign to get on the left side is like someone launching a helicopter where they press the buttons in quick succession snd they light up and stay lit, likewise the light up switches,

So think the buttins are like engine on fuel pump in life support on etc and the switches are like arm weapon

However the buttons and switches only need to turn on their internal lights. Its just for effect the buttons and switches dont operate anything.

The way this is wired is on each button:

2 pairs

Pair 1 - The Common Prong -----------is connected to the LED Positive Prong----- and the Positive battery pack termial
Pair 2 - The Normally Open NC Prong-- is connected the POSITIVE LED Prong------ on the button and thats connected to ground
on battery pack

The power supply is 9 PP3 Batteries in series

Whilst I dont need these circuits to do anythgin other than the latched and unlatched illuminated buttons and illuminated switches light themselves up when pressed (Staying on or not depending is latches or not)

Note in the photos attached I have not fully wired it up Ive just done pairs of wires on the buttons, they mave not been connected in parallel yet or to power and not done anything with the illuminated swtichesyes
I was following this video but presume their set up was intended to switch an in car gadget on and off thus a load and resistance>

Im just trying to fake special effects to look like somone is activiting things of a prop parir of control palentls where the buttoms light up to look cool



from 10 mins on and begging vid showing connections


-
The problem is the batteries heating up and 2 have smoked and had holes blow out of them

I m guessing this is some sort of short circuit issue. Maybe I need some resistor

So thats Panel 2

6 Illuminated buttons that latch in Parrellel
the 12 volts latchign buttons would be like this

Green Square Latching 16mm Push Button Switch NO/NC 12V
Green latching push button switch featuring a square illuminated actuator and IP65 protection rating. The switch features NO and NC contacts and fits standard 16mm panel cut-outs. The switch is suitable for a wide range of applications including industrial, prototyping, automotive etc. Green 12V...

https://cpc.farnell.com/rjs-electronics/rjs-k16-381-re-65j/illum-push-button-16mm-ltch-sq/dp/SW05393Please advise on what I need to do to get this done and safe Ligthing a load of buttons whtouy over heatign or buttons blowign a hole soiut of them

 

Typical 9 volt batteries are not exactly capable of delivering the power you need. You need to review how much power you need as in project current draw and get a suitable supply. A PP# battery is typically a 600 mAH source. Also is your project correctly wired? Short or overload a 9 volt PP3 battery and expect what you got, heat, fire and explosions.

Ron

 

Welcome to AAC!

See photos.

Post a schematic/wiring diagram.

 

Typical 9 volt batteries are not exactly capable of delivering the power you need. You need to review how much power you need as in project current draw and get a suitable supply. A PP# battery is typically a 600 mAH source. Also is your project correctly wired? Short or overload a 9 volt PP3 battery and expect what you got, heat, fire and explosions.

Ron

Basically All; I want to do is have a bunch of illuminated buttons light up when pressed. As said think any pilot launching an aircraft scene when the start switchign on all the systems and the buttons light up.

They are 12 and 24 volts (thats all I could get)> Dont need them switchign anything on just themselves. Im flexible on how to power them, but needs to be cheap as on overdraft limit and easy to get fast as very out of time

Just tryign to make2 popr control boards, One has a bank of 6 latchign buttons and a non latchign one and a could of switches that light up whe on. (the sliders are just for show).

How its doen not fussed as long as it works.


Project is not fully wired yet. Just got a single switch prototype working

Got as far as a you tube video on how to wore a button so the button lights when pressed and then have started to connect the buttons in the pairs they suggested SO

One pair common and led postive to the postive power pack terminal

2nd par the normally closed I think or open prong and the negative LED prog top the negative terminal of the battery pack

Tht seemed to work to the batteries started to heat smoke and blowout holes (lukily just cheap alkaline ones, Not tried my Niha ones and was goign to upgrade to Lition Ion rechargables.


But open on other battery pack ideas as long as cheap and out of money and ideally fairly flat as the box are only 7cm deep and 28cm 19 cm


An earlier project idea did involve explosives like a prop droid that attachign a magnetic mine (Using magicisn flash cotton so just a pyrotechic effect. BUt cpould not get the gear and drive system workign woith lego mindstorm


For this just wat what looks like a control box that the chracter can press buttons on and turn dials and theswitches and bottons light up

 

Welcome to AAC!

Post a schematic/wiring diagram.

This is a rough circut for what im tryign to do.

To put the 6 latched 24and 12v illuminated latch buttons, the 3 illuiminated switches and the non latched button in parallet and connect to the 3 pp3 batteries

 

These are the tech sheets from the suppliers

 

Tht seemed to work to the batteries started to heat smoke and blowout holes (lukily just cheap alkaline ones, Not tried my Niha ones and was goign to upgrade to Lition Ion rechargables.

That was expected. You can't overcurrent a battery, bad things happen. You mention 12 and 24 volts? Where are you getting the 12 and 24 volts? Personally I would likely use a 12 volt SLA battery. If you also need 24 volts I would add a boost converter:
12V to 24V DC Step Up Converter Boost AWG 17 Waterproof Module Transformer (5A 120W)

Regardless of what you choose you are not going to get where you want to be with PP# 9.0 volt batteries. You really need to know your total current draw and allow a 20% overhead in your power source. The LED ratings on your buttons 12V or 24V is about 8 mA per button. Not sure about the second button pdf as no mention of LED current draw?

Ron

 

MOD NOTE: Moved to Homework Help.

 

That was expected. You can't overcurrent a battery, bad things happen. You mention 12 and 24 volts? Where are you getting the 12 and 24 volts? Personally I would likely use a 12 volt SLA battery. If you also need 24 volts I would add a boost converter:
12V to 24V DC Step Up Converter Boost AWG 17 Waterproof Module Transformer (5A 120W)

Regardless of what you choose you are not going to get where you want to be with PP# 9.0 volt batteries. You really need to know your total current draw and allow a 20% overhead in your power source. The LED ratings on your buttons 12V or 24V is about 8 mA per button. Not sure about the second button pdf as no mention of LED current draw?

Ron

The buttons and switches said they were 24 and 12 volts dep on button, got a mix basically as thatrs what was availaible when purchased in a hurry, I would rather have less powerfuk ones

So treied to come up woth a batterysollution to match them to try and get the to light, did not would with a 12 volt aa battery pack so though Id try 3 pp3 batteries to try7 and get one illuminated button lightign up when pressed as a prototype them replicates on all the buttons and switches in a parrallecirtu confiuration>


Note it has to be battery not mains as a hand held portable prop

 

no idea on current draw

 

If your batteries are smoking and blowing holes, you have almost certainly shorted them with your switch.

 

no idea on current draw

The first pdf mentions the LED current(s).


I have no clue how you have things wired? I see no schematic? You need to figure your total current which should have been done long ago on your project.

Ron

 

The first pdf mentions the LED current(s).
View attachment 311924

I have no clue how you have things wired? I see no schematic? You need to figure your total current which should have been done long ago on your project.

Ron
[/QqUOTE]
Not got far enough for a schematic or circuit diagram. Was just at the got one Button working . Started to wire the buttons in a reapeated manner. Then the batteries smoked and blew and heart sank as thought I just had that. Then figured need to ask for help as smoke blow outs = danger for self and the prop box I cannot replace. Open for how to do scenario. Also trick to see

The first pdf mentions the LED current(s).
View attachment 311924

I have no clue how you have things wired? I see no schematic? You need to figure your total current which should have been done long ago on your project.

Ron

Will this do for a wiring schematic?

I found that I dont need 24 v to work one LED switch, a single pp3 pattery will do it but no idea on the resistor needed, both what ohms ansd should it be one resitor for all switches on the ground or power line or should or be one per button or switch?

See the attachments.

Note that normally these buttons would operate somethgin like a light or gadget etc. ive bypassed this stright to ground as only need the buttons to light up

Plus included some close up for the components

 

This is what Im tryign to make.. not finsihed. Is it a case of just needing the right resistor on the buttons? now I need less battery for the switches?. ALso if I add more batteries in parallel would they last longer?

 

Will this do for a wiring schematic?

I found that I dont need 24 v to work one LED switch, a single pp3 pattery will do it but no idea on the resistor needed, both what ohms ansd should it be one resitor for all switches on the ground or power line or should or be one per button or switch?

See the attachments.

Note that normally these buttons would operate somethgin like a light or gadget etc. ive bypassed this stright to ground as only need the buttons to light up

Plus included some close up for the components

Thanks for the advice on not needing all 3 pp3 batteries, tried it on one switch and one pp3 battery worked (and switching off before it got hot). Not sure about 6 latchign buttons, one no latchign one ans 2 switches if would need more that one battery. Would having the batteries in parallet help them last?

ALso is it a case of just needign a resitor or one per button if so what one woill be needed?

 

Yes, parallel will increase the mA hour rating or simply make them last. Illuminated buttons normally have internal resistance in series with their internal LED. Look at my post #12. A 12 volt button does not need a series resistor it should be powered by 12 volts for illumination.

Speaking of 12 volts you have 12 and 24 volt illuminated buttons so one more time I ask where is the 12 and 24 volts coming from?

Ron

 

Yes, parallel will increase the mA hour rating or simply make them last. Illuminated buttons normally have internal resistance in series with their internal LED. Look at my post #12. A 12 volt button does not need a series resistor it should be powered by 12 volts for illumination.

Speaking of 12 volts you have 12 and 24 volt illuminated buttons so one more time I ask where is the 12 and 24 volts coming from?

Ron

Some of the buttons have 24 volts written on them, some had 12, they were got in a hurry and one supplier did not have them all so guess 12 from one supplier 24 for the other.

Not sure if they had internal resistors give the blattery alience like blow out,heating up and smoking but have experimented and found 600omh resister ofn the grounds heated up but 2 k ones did not and the button still worked. so been solderign all of them wioth 2 k resisters and tryitgn to wire up, its takign a while

 

There are formulas used to calculate series resistance for a LED all here nor there. You should not need series resistors but your project so do whatever. Projects like this go much better when parts are chosen with data sheets. I still have no clue why you are using 9 volt batteries but as I mentioned, this is your project. I see no way I can be of any help to you. Best of luck with your project.

Ron

 

There are formulas used to calculate series resistance for a LED all here nor there. You should not need series resistors but your project so do whatever. Projects like this go much better when parts are chosen with data sheets. I still have no clue why you are using 9 volt batteries but as I mentioned, this is your project. I see no way I can be of any help to you. Best of luck with your project.

Ron

The 9 volt batteries where used as were cheap as 24 volts ones were like £50 and big anf fat. I got the 24 and 12 v batteries and tried to think what batteries could I use, I had rechargable pp3 ones and had also tried 12 v battery packs ull of AA rechargable batteroes vbut at 12 v they did not work> I think now there was an issue with the casign or the pack box itself give a n9 volt battery worked.

In therey as you said the buttons should not need a resitor if one was in it but 2 batteraies that got hot smokes sizzled and had holes blown out of them indivated a major issue and it had been suggested to use reisitors.

Experiments with 2k resiters seemed to get success, 6oo omn got hot the 2 k did not and have just got the left side pannel with 2 buttons fully functioning except for the toggle switches I have had no luck at all with>

So goign to use the resisters as they seem to get it working safely

Thansk guys.

Any ideas on whey gettign o lock whatso ever with the toggle switches?

It wouldbe nice to get them workign but frankly they are expendable and runnign out of time so will leave them