Shortbus, that is a perfect solution to my needs.
Nice of you to offer us such compatible ideas to what I require.
We are definitely on the same page with this stuff.

Just waiting for this old machinist guy to turn up to confirm my main drive thread spec's so I can order the correct face plate/s.
Darn hot here right now and the old boy does not want to make a trip out in the heat.
Dont blame him actually, he is older and wiser than me...

 

Well, its been a while, but I do believe I've resolved my QCTP needs for now and determined that my thread on the LAM main drive for the chuck to attach is 2 1/4" x 8TPI. .

I decided to stick with the QC setup I was using on the Hercus, but have purchased the larger channel opening cutter holder (XL version) which will help me accommodate some of the cutters that came with my LAM lathe, that are larger in dimensions.

Thanks to the generosity of a Forum member on another Forum, who offered to machine up a new tool post bolt that attaches my QCTP main body and my LAM existing cross carriage, so I can utilise the old Hercus QCTP setup.
Kind of an adapter if you like, which also corrects my height alignment issues.

I am very grateful to him for his contribution.
I removed the cross carriage so he could take it away to work with it and at the same time he improved the travel smoothness and installed an oiling point which it obviously very badly needed.

 

Well, Shortbus, I think I will be attempting to make my own face plate here at home.
Or at leaset source the material, clean it up close to shape, bore a centre hole under thrread size and possibly pay for somebody to cut the required 8TPI thread for me.
If my luck holds out, I may find a sentimental soul who will be willing to do the job for me at the right price instead of shop rates.

 

Or at leaset source the material, clean it up close to shape, bore a centre hole under thrread size and possibly pay for somebody to cut the required 8TPI thread for me

If I was to do that I'd go a little farther than just boring the hole under size. I'd also bore to tap drill size and then bore the threads most of the way to size. That way someone would only need to run the tap in it to finish the thread. 2 1/4 -8 won't be an easy hand tap!!! But if the threads just need taken to final size, much easier and straighter.

 

Well, the juganaut rolls on I guess.
With a functioning QCTP holder now, I have decided that I would like an additional face plate to fit this lathe.

Buying face plates in the USA looked tempting for the price, but once shipping was added on it really did killed the deal.
So now I'm making my own using my new LAM lathe.
Its a good opportunity to learn the new lathe, so many little differences but still a lathe all the same.

I scored from the local laser cutting shop what is known as a "drop out" which is a waste piece of circular steel plate where a hole has be cut for an order.
The down side is that it has a laser cut thru it starting at the centre, plus the cut faces are all quite hard down at least 1mm.
Once thru the hard surface the steel machines well.
I got a circle 50mm thick by 150mm diameter roughly.
The up side is it cost of $8.00

Now I have it here at home, I will determined a center, use a flapper disc and a cold chisel to remove the slag and set it up in my 4 jaw chuck.
From the photo you will note the laser cut.

The next operation will be to face it and drill a center hole.
Sounds easy, but I used this stuff before and it will be slow...

The laser cut makes a good swarf breaker.

 

In the meantime, I have come up with an idea for dealing with the laser cut line and providing for a smooth internal thread process by locating the radius where the thread will end up, then drill a 16mm hole and press in a tight fit steel dowel.

I dont like the idea of any MIG weld or hard face surface from the laser cut interfering with a smooth threading process.
I'm guessing it will be difficult enough without added inconsistent surface hardness part way thru/around the internal threaded hole circumference.

Then I will be ready to drill out the centre hole.

 

In the meantime, I have come up with an idea for dealing with the laser cut line and providing for a smooth internal thread process by locating the radius where the thread will end up, then drill a 16mm hole and press in a tight fit steel dowel.

While you eliminated one problem, I don't think it will be the last one. I'd be worried, (if it was me) about the rest of the laser slot. It may not end up being a problem but it may also allow vibration when the chuck is mounted and you try to take a cut on a work piece. Hope I'm wrong, for your sake.

 

You are wrong on this ocassion but worth raising it, I've taken advice prior to going down this path.
Any inbalance is largely reduced when the remaining laser cut is MIG welded over and faced prior to completing the critical machine works.
A lot of work pieces placed in a lathe at the start of a job are not balanced or weighted perfectly, plus in my case I dont run at break neck machining speeds.

 

You are wrong on this ocassion but worth raising it, I've taken advice prior to going down this path.
Any inbalance is largely reduced when the remaining laser cut is MIG welded over and faced prior to completing the critical machine works.

I think you are misunderstanding what I meant. I didn't mean unbalance but the fact that there is a disruption in the steel. Look at any store bought backplate, they are always made from a single piece of metal, with no slice in it. But until now you didn't mention mig welding the cut shut.

 

No MIG welding mentioned as it is a step in a project and you jumped to soon.

 

My initial machining is finished now and I have a blank I'd guess you could call it that is under size on the centre hole and slightly oversized on the external dimensions.

MIG welding is completed and the finished item looks fine to me.
It has been suggested to me that I should consider pinning the dowel, so there is no change of movement, which sounds like a good idea.

At this point I will seek counsel with a suitable person able to cut the centre hole thread for me.
I hope it will not become too difficult a task to secure the right person for the job...

 

It has been suggested to me that I should consider pinning the dowel, so there is no change of movement, which sounds like a good idea.

That's exactly what I was telling you earlier.