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How to use limit switches in a project circuit?
- Thread starter fiftyv8
- Start date
@fiftyv8 , glad your doing better.
Hope you don't mind me putting some pics of what I did lately in your thread, if so I'll delete them. But after you made your band saw blade guides, I decided to do a set for my 7X12 inch horizontal cutoff saw. The saw was bought new by me and I tried everything I could think of to get tit to cut square and plumb plus not wear the set out of blades so fast. So I very seldom used the saw because you never knew how much extra to leave on it or which way it was going cut at an angle.
So I made up some guides and did what I suggested to you, used 2 pairs of bearings on each guide. Now I cuts both square and plumb! Thank you for getting me off my a$$. The black one is the old original and red is my new one, only showed one of 2 on the saw.
Hope you don't mind me putting some pics of what I did lately in your thread, if so I'll delete them. But after you made your band saw blade guides, I decided to do a set for my 7X12 inch horizontal cutoff saw. The saw was bought new by me and I tried everything I could think of to get tit to cut square and plumb plus not wear the set out of blades so fast. So I very seldom used the saw because you never knew how much extra to leave on it or which way it was going cut at an angle.
So I made up some guides and did what I suggested to you, used 2 pairs of bearings on each guide. Now I cuts both square and plumb! Thank you for getting me off my a$$. The black one is the old original and red is my new one, only showed one of 2 on the saw.
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Nice work Shortbus.
My upgrade helped heaps to get my blade running true.
Prior to that it was a dead loss trying to cut anything straight.
I dont ever expect to use my bandsaw all that much, but if it is working reliably and cutting straight it will get much more use than before.
Even the under table guides seems to be running OK and so far no blockage or build up of swarf.
Even if it did build up, it has easy access with a small brush to clear it away.
For now I am still not doing much of anything.
I watched a couple of YouTube videos on how to improve my HF sand blasting cabinet.
There is offered a bunch of small upgrade ideas that they seem to think will much improve the sand blasting capability of these cabinets.
It all seems quite logical and most are really easy to do, so maybe my first steps back to the shop will be to ease myself in by taking on these upgrades.
Mostly, it seems only require my time and a few cheap parts, so I feel like taking it on.
I noticed that I needed to watch several videos to help me form an opinion as to which upgrades were beneficial and worth doing.
My plan for now is to add castor wheels as it seems a good idea to make it mobile, but also the unit seems a little too low in height for us westerners, so by adding wheels it helps to add a little extra height, so your elbows are better placed when in the glove sleeves.
Secondly, I will add a shop vacuum hook up to the rear of the cabinet in an existing vent port and seal the top end of the associated duct inside the cabinet.
Thirdly, I will add a similar duct to the other existing vent port on the side of the cabinet and ensure it is sealed at the top.
To the vent port hole, I will add one of those circular airflow vent controllers, like used on boats and caravans that I recall. This will allow me to get an airflow balance between air in and air out.
It seems the ducts help to keep the air cross flowing at about work table height and hence more effectively pull the residual dust away.
The problem with the cabinet prior to doing this is the dust build up inside the enclosure and this makes it difficult to see the work during sand blasting.
Fourthly, if there is even such a word. I will install the closed capture of used sand, that is recycled thru the system and does away with the requirement of keeping a large quantity of sand either below the table or in a remote hopper. The videos show how easy it is to screw together a few Home Depot pieces of pipe and re-route air hoses etc. Acquiring a better quality hand piece seems also to be a good idea.
Fifthly, is to swap out the crap window viewing arrangement and replace the perspex with 2 layers of glass, one of which becomes sacrificial layer over time, but lasts way longer than perspex and hence a much better view of your work.
There is an upgrade to the window frame also that improves future glass replacement.
It is my plan at this point to also make my glass frame panel hinged and be able to lift it up for additional access.
Currently, the only access is via a side door which is OK, but the top seems workable for me and has been done by a minority of upgraders.
Sixth item, is to remove the existing light and add much brighter and more efficient LED lights. I see the guys mostly get hold of magnetic strip lights which makes the whole deal so much easier to install.
In my neck of the woods where we have just only invented the wheel I dont believe I will find the same magnetic strip lights here easily and if I do, I'd probably need to mortgage my house to buy them...
I have pre-empted this problem of lighting and found a small lookalike fluoro light with a protective diffuser that does have a magnetic base and also a motion sensor. I am gambling on the fact that this may work and be better that my other options.
It is coming on a sanpan from China, so I ordered it early while I am still in recovery, in the hope that it will eventually arrive about the time I may require it.
It cost more than I wanted to spend but my choices were limited.
In addition, I will add a moisture protection unit to my incoming airline, pop rivett a small sheet metal panel over the inside face of the side opening door, which currently has domed recesses manufactured into it.
The feedback is that the door is best made smooth and flush, as every time the current door face configuration is opened, loose sand sits in the concave domes and drops out onto the floor.
My castor wheel installation will incorporate a shelf for my vacuum cleaner to sit upon and for starters I will use a small home style vacuum and see how it performs.
It seems some guys get very involved with a big shop vacuum and one of those Dust General capture units.
They are available here, but prices are high and I figure not worth the trouble unless I prove the simple vacuum cleaner does not perform for me and then I may look at going big time...
Finally, I plan to as per one YouTube guys, keep a separate air jet nozzle hand piece in the cabinet to blow off dust if required during the blasting process and also re-do the electrics by having each item switched separately, plus a shut off valve for the air supply as I feel that may go some way to preserving the valve trigger in the hand piece...
My upgrade helped heaps to get my blade running true.
Prior to that it was a dead loss trying to cut anything straight.
I dont ever expect to use my bandsaw all that much, but if it is working reliably and cutting straight it will get much more use than before.
Even the under table guides seems to be running OK and so far no blockage or build up of swarf.
Even if it did build up, it has easy access with a small brush to clear it away.
For now I am still not doing much of anything.
I watched a couple of YouTube videos on how to improve my HF sand blasting cabinet.
There is offered a bunch of small upgrade ideas that they seem to think will much improve the sand blasting capability of these cabinets.
It all seems quite logical and most are really easy to do, so maybe my first steps back to the shop will be to ease myself in by taking on these upgrades.
Mostly, it seems only require my time and a few cheap parts, so I feel like taking it on.
I noticed that I needed to watch several videos to help me form an opinion as to which upgrades were beneficial and worth doing.
My plan for now is to add castor wheels as it seems a good idea to make it mobile, but also the unit seems a little too low in height for us westerners, so by adding wheels it helps to add a little extra height, so your elbows are better placed when in the glove sleeves.
Secondly, I will add a shop vacuum hook up to the rear of the cabinet in an existing vent port and seal the top end of the associated duct inside the cabinet.
Thirdly, I will add a similar duct to the other existing vent port on the side of the cabinet and ensure it is sealed at the top.
To the vent port hole, I will add one of those circular airflow vent controllers, like used on boats and caravans that I recall. This will allow me to get an airflow balance between air in and air out.
It seems the ducts help to keep the air cross flowing at about work table height and hence more effectively pull the residual dust away.
The problem with the cabinet prior to doing this is the dust build up inside the enclosure and this makes it difficult to see the work during sand blasting.
Fourthly, if there is even such a word. I will install the closed capture of used sand, that is recycled thru the system and does away with the requirement of keeping a large quantity of sand either below the table or in a remote hopper. The videos show how easy it is to screw together a few Home Depot pieces of pipe and re-route air hoses etc. Acquiring a better quality hand piece seems also to be a good idea.
Fifthly, is to swap out the crap window viewing arrangement and replace the perspex with 2 layers of glass, one of which becomes sacrificial layer over time, but lasts way longer than perspex and hence a much better view of your work.
There is an upgrade to the window frame also that improves future glass replacement.
It is my plan at this point to also make my glass frame panel hinged and be able to lift it up for additional access.
Currently, the only access is via a side door which is OK, but the top seems workable for me and has been done by a minority of upgraders.
Sixth item, is to remove the existing light and add much brighter and more efficient LED lights. I see the guys mostly get hold of magnetic strip lights which makes the whole deal so much easier to install.
In my neck of the woods where we have just only invented the wheel I dont believe I will find the same magnetic strip lights here easily and if I do, I'd probably need to mortgage my house to buy them...
I have pre-empted this problem of lighting and found a small lookalike fluoro light with a protective diffuser that does have a magnetic base and also a motion sensor. I am gambling on the fact that this may work and be better that my other options.
It is coming on a sanpan from China, so I ordered it early while I am still in recovery, in the hope that it will eventually arrive about the time I may require it.
It cost more than I wanted to spend but my choices were limited.
In addition, I will add a moisture protection unit to my incoming airline, pop rivett a small sheet metal panel over the inside face of the side opening door, which currently has domed recesses manufactured into it.
The feedback is that the door is best made smooth and flush, as every time the current door face configuration is opened, loose sand sits in the concave domes and drops out onto the floor.
My castor wheel installation will incorporate a shelf for my vacuum cleaner to sit upon and for starters I will use a small home style vacuum and see how it performs.
It seems some guys get very involved with a big shop vacuum and one of those Dust General capture units.
They are available here, but prices are high and I figure not worth the trouble unless I prove the simple vacuum cleaner does not perform for me and then I may look at going big time...
Finally, I plan to as per one YouTube guys, keep a separate air jet nozzle hand piece in the cabinet to blow off dust if required during the blasting process and also re-do the electrics by having each item switched separately, plus a shut off valve for the air supply as I feel that may go some way to preserving the valve trigger in the hand piece...
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Glad my posting my project didn't upset you.
Does your blaster have a baffle in the back wall? I also have a HF(harbor Freight) blaster and it has a baffle that sticks out about 1" from the back wall and down almost to the work screen floor. This keeps everything but but the smallest sand particles from going into the vacuum.
I'm lucky that I live couple of miles from a company called TIP or Skatblast. I go there to get my blast material and bought one of their vacuum units as a scratch and dent for about 1/2 the price. I got tired of all the dust when using sand and switched to their sand alternative, instead of sand it's made from crushed steel mill slag. Much less dust and lasts longer.
Does your blaster have a baffle in the back wall? I also have a HF(harbor Freight) blaster and it has a baffle that sticks out about 1" from the back wall and down almost to the work screen floor. This keeps everything but but the smallest sand particles from going into the vacuum.
I'm lucky that I live couple of miles from a company called TIP or Skatblast. I go there to get my blast material and bought one of their vacuum units as a scratch and dent for about 1/2 the price. I got tired of all the dust when using sand and switched to their sand alternative, instead of sand it's made from crushed steel mill slag. Much less dust and lasts longer.
Looks good. Just be sure you don't touch the PVC pipe for a while after you use it. Sand and even wood saw dust going through the pipe will create a pretty good static electric charge on the pipe. The guys using PVC pipe for wood shop vacuum lines found that out and now run a bare copper wire inside and hook it to a ground to keep from getting shocked. here's another way to do it -
https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwo...fast-and-simple-way-to-ground-pvc-dust-piping
https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwo...fast-and-simple-way-to-ground-pvc-dust-piping
Well folks, I am still alive and kicking but have had a few ups and downs with my Covid vaccine health recovery.
I've been passed from the Gastroenterology Dept to the Immunology Dept in our Hospital, fingers crossed that is a good thing and my new Dr is from Cuba...
So for now I've kept things simple regards to projects and made very little progress on my tube bender.
However, I have wired up a fold out of the way forward and reverse switch plus discovered that an earlier installed keyway is not holding and needs to be larger or have a 2nd keyway installed in the shaft.
Have not had the energy to pull it apart to come to a final conclusion as to the best way forward yet.
In the meantime, I've acquired a newer larger lathe that has seem me fabricating a metal base as it came with a lumber stand that was a little rickety and not to my liking...
I've also restored a junked tool cabinet that I collected from the side of the road and made it mobile etc.
I've been passed from the Gastroenterology Dept to the Immunology Dept in our Hospital, fingers crossed that is a good thing and my new Dr is from Cuba...
So for now I've kept things simple regards to projects and made very little progress on my tube bender.
However, I have wired up a fold out of the way forward and reverse switch plus discovered that an earlier installed keyway is not holding and needs to be larger or have a 2nd keyway installed in the shaft.
Have not had the energy to pull it apart to come to a final conclusion as to the best way forward yet.
In the meantime, I've acquired a newer larger lathe that has seem me fabricating a metal base as it came with a lumber stand that was a little rickety and not to my liking...
I've also restored a junked tool cabinet that I collected from the side of the road and made it mobile etc.
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Well folks, I still have a heart beat and pulse but not as active right now.
Nevertheless, I am still keen to make some progress from time to time.
I recently finished machining my 2nd bending form from another 20kg slug of steel picked up from waste at a laser cutting outlet.
The problem with getting other folks scrap is there is always extra stuff to deal with.
In this case, the slugs are generally out of round by upto a 1/4" and the outer cut surface seems very hard.
Once I cut thru the outer surface it machines OK.
Last issue has been that the laser begins its cut in this waste slug and kinder does a small spiral as it cuts out of the slug and then actually creates a cut line between the waste and the main piece of metal.
This means that every rotation during machining hits this cut line and it clacks similar to riding in a old train.
On the plus side the cut cuts the swarf off and helps prevent a build up of a continuous off cut.
My lathe is only tiny for such a heavy piece of metal and the swing is past its limit.
The slug comes to me at a diameter in excess of 8".
I feel somewhat ashamed to admit that I have spend more than 10 hours in front of my lathe to make 1 form.
I must run slow speeds and take steady for fear of breaking something or hurting the operator...
I am pleased to say that I have no plans to make any more forms.
So now, I have a 32mm diamter form that I acquired and modified to fit my machine, plus a 42mm and 52mm diameters that I have homemade.
Nevertheless, I am still keen to make some progress from time to time.
I recently finished machining my 2nd bending form from another 20kg slug of steel picked up from waste at a laser cutting outlet.
The problem with getting other folks scrap is there is always extra stuff to deal with.
In this case, the slugs are generally out of round by upto a 1/4" and the outer cut surface seems very hard.
Once I cut thru the outer surface it machines OK.
Last issue has been that the laser begins its cut in this waste slug and kinder does a small spiral as it cuts out of the slug and then actually creates a cut line between the waste and the main piece of metal.
This means that every rotation during machining hits this cut line and it clacks similar to riding in a old train.
On the plus side the cut cuts the swarf off and helps prevent a build up of a continuous off cut.
My lathe is only tiny for such a heavy piece of metal and the swing is past its limit.
The slug comes to me at a diameter in excess of 8".
I feel somewhat ashamed to admit that I have spend more than 10 hours in front of my lathe to make 1 form.
I must run slow speeds and take steady for fear of breaking something or hurting the operator...
I am pleased to say that I have no plans to make any more forms.
So now, I have a 32mm diamter form that I acquired and modified to fit my machine, plus a 42mm and 52mm diameters that I have homemade.
Attachments
Funny that Shortbus, me too with Dr's.
I've seen the United Nations of Dr's, had a Chinese Dr for a short while who seemed to be OK, but be damed if I couod understand her accent.
Now I have a Cuban Dr, beautiful English and fulls me with confidence as well.
Sad thing is, we always seem to have to go the long route to find these good people and never get them first up.
Just glad my machining is over for now and I can look at doing my old for new lathe swap out.
I've been building an additional under lathe drawer to install under the bed for the heavier bigger stuff like chucks etc...
I've seen the United Nations of Dr's, had a Chinese Dr for a short while who seemed to be OK, but be damed if I couod understand her accent.
Now I have a Cuban Dr, beautiful English and fulls me with confidence as well.
Sad thing is, we always seem to have to go the long route to find these good people and never get them first up.
Just glad my machining is over for now and I can look at doing my old for new lathe swap out.
I've been building an additional under lathe drawer to install under the bed for the heavier bigger stuff like chucks etc...
Attachments
Happy new folks, sorry I've been off the radar for some time now.
Funny story now, but not at the time.
Firstly, I have cured my own liver issues related to my 3 jabs and been dismissed from the hospital patient list.
They tell my numbers were excellent and all was good.
It has taken almost 1 year to achieve, no thanks to the Dr's who seemed happy to monitor but not treat me.
I then get food poisoning from salami on a pizza which knocked me around for 2 weeks and then if that wasn't enough bad luck, I get bitten in my sleep by an angry poisonous spider which bit me several time, so I assume it unloaded all of its venom into me.
That was 8 weeks ago and initially I just felt bad and did not really know what had a occured.
I suffered numerous symptoms, some it turns out were a direct result of the spiders venom and the remainder appear to be as a result of the venom seriously upsetting my recently improved liver.
All I can say is that I'm glad my liver was improved, because I dont know how I would have coped earlier when my liver was in bad shape.
I struggled to walk for about 10 days as my feet and leg swelled up so bad, I could not even fit shoes...
Pleased to say, now I am much better and feeling like going back out into the shed...
With the run of bad luck I've had there is no way I'd get into an aeroplane...
Wow, I thought I had bad luck, you have me beat. I was supposed to have hand surgery Jan 5 but they won't do it now. Went in for per surgery check and my EKG said the same thing I told them, my heart has a totally blocked artery. They wanted me to go through the same process of a heart catheterization and stress test. I won't do it. Hands are healing on there own, just have to wear compression gloves.
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Yes, its just me acting my politically incorrect age, I guess.
That's my 1960 F100, came out of tye KS Ford factory and I'm the 3rd owner.
I still remain in touch with the 2nd owner, who I met in OR when purchased in 2005, however he now resides in ID.
Its a V8 now, short box, limited edition version with the big back window.
When in the States, I drove it from Portland, OR south down the I5 to Los Angeles.
From there, I drove it via Las Vegas, NV to Boulder, Colorado.
On my return trip to Los Angeles, CA where I shipped it home to Australia, I towed a Uhaul car trailer loaded with a 1950 Chevy 2 door sedan (over the Rocky Mountains barely, I must say, that poor little truck did not like being loaded and hauling in altitude) I drove south down the I25 and via Phoenix AZ to Los Angeles once more.
I sure did not break any speed records and boy was it hot out in the desert without a/c...
That's my 1960 F100, came out of tye KS Ford factory and I'm the 3rd owner.
I still remain in touch with the 2nd owner, who I met in OR when purchased in 2005, however he now resides in ID.
Its a V8 now, short box, limited edition version with the big back window.
When in the States, I drove it from Portland, OR south down the I5 to Los Angeles.
From there, I drove it via Las Vegas, NV to Boulder, Colorado.
On my return trip to Los Angeles, CA where I shipped it home to Australia, I towed a Uhaul car trailer loaded with a 1950 Chevy 2 door sedan (over the Rocky Mountains barely, I must say, that poor little truck did not like being loaded and hauling in altitude) I drove south down the I25 and via Phoenix AZ to Los Angeles once more.
I sure did not break any speed records and boy was it hot out in the desert without a/c...
